Ehc rip install
- Thread starter Nwhicks21
- Start date
Yep, it looks like the board is fried. Wow…. I had it long enough enjoy taking it a half mile to the fuel station and I’m screwed now. I am FUCKED. I just don’t understand, it was running everything worked all the lights, signals, etc. I cleaned up all the connections, used dielectric grease, conduit on every part of the harness, protected it every way possible I knew. Studied several manuals, schematics and links in the dog dog drop box all day yesterday to try learning the ins and outs of this thing before I took it for an actual ride this weekend, shut it off and put a test light / power probe on the red Speedo wire had the ground clipped to the black ground wire, just to start the process of elimination, and the Speedo still wouldn’t come on so I said screw it went to start it and put back in the garage and, nothing. I am fuckn devastated man…literally. I guess I have a big dog for sale if anyone is interested. I can’t win with this thing, this sucks.
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What happened Boss? Was this a like a Power Probe 3 or which specific test equipment were you using?
Did you use the toggle switch to send power into the circuit?
Everything was fine. I don’t understand it… savage even told me the Speedo doesn’t run off the ehc but I still checked the schematics to confirm wiring and verified it was a 12 v supply, and I put a probe on the red power wire and it still didn’t power up the Speedo. But like I said, even after that when I was about to park it in the garage after cleaning everything up the lights came on and it attempted to turn over for about a second and then boom, lights out. This machine is killing me bud. I talked to Curtis at wsw and he is pretty confident the ehc is good and there’s a short somewhere so I’m currently tearing it all down… AGAIN.
Did you send 12v into the circuit with a power probe?
See below, taken from manual. You should be measuring Boss.
SPEED SENSOR TEST
First, test that the red wire reading is 12 volts.
Test the black wire for continuity. Using the
proper equipment, raise the rear tire, and check
voltage at the green signal wire while spinning the
tire. The reading should be between 0 and 6 volts.
If no voltage registers, replace the speed sensor.
See below, taken from manual. You should be measuring Boss.
SPEED SENSOR TEST
First, test that the red wire reading is 12 volts.
Test the black wire for continuity. Using the
proper equipment, raise the rear tire, and check
voltage at the green signal wire while spinning the
tire. The reading should be between 0 and 6 volts.
If no voltage registers, replace the speed sensor.
Yes I did
I know the speedometer is the problem Bud. The speed sensor needs to be tested along with speedometer.
Bench testing must take place on the bench Boss, not in the circuit.
The power probe instructions specify to never toggle the power into electronics.
I know I sound like a broken record bud, but you must read and understand procedures prior to execution.
Next, study procedures for testing EHC.
What amperage was the power probe set at when you zapped the EHC? 65 amps?
Bench testing must take place on the bench Boss, not in the circuit.
The power probe instructions specify to never toggle the power into electronics.
I know I sound like a broken record bud, but you must read and understand procedures prior to execution.
Next, study procedures for testing EHC.
What amperage was the power probe set at when you zapped the EHC? 65 amps?
Ok, so.......let's hope Curtis is correct!
Let's assume your new kit and EHC contain circuit protection.
If so, the next step would be to test the EHC. See if it has been damaged. Let's hope it blew a ntc thermistor in the circuit and never reached the EHC.
Also, the circuits can be tested for resistance, continuity, and voltage drop.
Remember, resistance and continuity does not produce reliable results. However, it's a starting point.
If I remember correctly, there are ntc thermistors inline on bus 1 and bus 2
You will have to go through the wiring diagrams, the RIP instructions, and all sources. In addition, you should physically look at each component and match it to your reference material.
Then read testing procedures before proceeding. Use multimeter rather then power probe. I'm not sure which tool you have or if you have the proper testing adapters that limit output.
Let's assume your new kit and EHC contain circuit protection.
If so, the next step would be to test the EHC. See if it has been damaged. Let's hope it blew a ntc thermistor in the circuit and never reached the EHC.
Also, the circuits can be tested for resistance, continuity, and voltage drop.
Remember, resistance and continuity does not produce reliable results. However, it's a starting point.
If I remember correctly, there are ntc thermistors inline on bus 1 and bus 2
You will have to go through the wiring diagrams, the RIP instructions, and all sources. In addition, you should physically look at each component and match it to your reference material.
Then read testing procedures before proceeding. Use multimeter rather then power probe. I'm not sure which tool you have or if you have the proper testing adapters that limit output.
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More food for thought, ya don't know what ya don't know. Let us know your plan before execution. Let others think through it and provide input before moving forward.
Critical thinking is your friend Boss. Let's hope the circuit saved the EHC.
I have a lot of respect for Curtis's opinion and others on the site who have experienced the same problems. If Curtis says he feels it's possible that the current did not reach the EHC, then it's worth investigating Boss.
Critical thinking is your friend Boss. Let's hope the circuit saved the EHC.
I have a lot of respect for Curtis's opinion and others on the site who have experienced the same problems. If Curtis says he feels it's possible that the current did not reach the EHC, then it's worth investigating Boss.
It’s just a 12v I don’t have the 5v adapter… amps, I’m not sure, low I’m sure being that it’s a small tester. I have been working on checking continuity, and referencing what material I can find. I know you are good and know your stuff, but with all due respect it’s a lot easier said than done when it comes to finding this information in the massive Dropbox library…if it’s even there! Which some a lot isn’t, bc I promise I’ve been through it all brother. I search and do my best to figure out what I can, but a lot of ppl keep telling me to “go read manual”, but truth of it is, sometimes it’s just not that simple, bc if it was I assure you I wouldn’t be here wasting everyone’s time. I ask the community bc I either couldn’t find it, or couldn’t understand it. And like I said, that’s not me taking a shot at anyone, I just want y’all to know I’m trying my best. I’m learning my bike tho that’s for sure. But if this is how these things are, idk why I’m the hell anyone would ever want one. It’s a fuckn nightmare! And what they charge for parts is highway robbery!! That’s so ridiculous and uncalled for.
Also Curtis told me that red wire isn’t the problem, thats the power wire to the harness. So the only wire I have seen ANYWHERE on the bike that looks bad or sketchy at all is the pin #8 ground wire on the backbone harness connector which is the Speedo wire I told you that melted. it’s melted up as far as I could see. The rest look brand new. I just tested the resistance on the said ground wire, it was 14.2 ohms so I’m just gonna run an independent ground for the Speedo and try that, but no power on the red wire, the green wire has 7 or 9 something like that at the Speedo connector (neutral). still doesn’t explain why everything else quit out of nowhere when the bike was stationary. I want to just set this mother fucker on fire I stg.
Ok Bro, relax .....take a deep breath! Sorry for frustrating you with the manual reading.
Back in those days, the Dogs were built with top of the line parts! Expensive! Basically, designed for guys with disposable income. However, the engineering and assembly had some serious opportunities.
So, let's look at it in a positive light! Like you said, "you're learning your bike"! Excellent!
These are hard lessons brother, but, you can do it! Keep swinging my friend! Go slow and steady. Methodically think through it.
Let us know how the independent ground works out. Remember to test the sensor that I posted earlier if necessary after ground replacement. I believe the speedo and speed sensor both need to be tested.
Back in those days, the Dogs were built with top of the line parts! Expensive! Basically, designed for guys with disposable income. However, the engineering and assembly had some serious opportunities.
So, let's look at it in a positive light! Like you said, "you're learning your bike"! Excellent!
These are hard lessons brother, but, you can do it! Keep swinging my friend! Go slow and steady. Methodically think through it.
Let us know how the independent ground works out. Remember to test the sensor that I posted earlier if necessary after ground replacement. I believe the speedo and speed sensor both need to be tested.
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I get it but remember....HD doesnt have shops in every small town cause HD is soooo reliable. Oh wait, they do....
if its got tits or tires its gonna cost ya. These bikes are HD's on steriods. Dont give up too soon or you will miss all the fun.
No, the only power wires besides what is in in the main harness are 1-the be, 2, the starter, 3 the inline fuse