K9 Rebuild/Upgrade

[82ndAirborne]

Looking awesome!

Can’t believe you scored an air shock, that’s great!

Me either! What was really great was getting 2 full sets. The compressor is new, but the Shocks are used (Slightly), no warranty, but with two sets I should be OK. Ordered a solenoid and air line from Donna, so I think I can do the installation. Also scored a Maltese Cross Derby Cover (picture 1). Sadly using the last bottle of my good polish...man I love this stuff. A shame you can't get it anymore. So today I'm polishing up the new cam Cover and replacing my new Ignition Cover that I somehow scratched (slightly). That will be all until next weekend. Hopefully I can get started on the Inner Primary replacement. After that...really close!

 

[82ndAirborne]

Me either! What was really great was getting 2 full sets. The compressor is new, but the Shocks are used (Slightly), no warranty, but with two sets I should be OK. Ordered a solenoid and air line from Donna, so I think I can do the installation. Also scored a Maltese Cross Derby Cover (picture 1). Sadly using the last bottle of my good polish...man I love this stuff. A shame you can't get it anymore. So today I'm polishing up the new cam Cover and replacing my new Ignition Cover that I somehow scratched (slightly). That will be all until next weekend. Hopefully I can get started on the Inner Primary replacement. After that...really close!

Oops...I accidentally sent a picture of dye that I'm trying on the Spike Air Filter. I don't think it's going to work because the Filter is not cotton based...Metal I think.

 

[82ndAirborne]

Got the Ignition Cover installed...that's it for now.

 

[82ndAirborne]

Question: I read somewhere that if you connect the Circuit Breaker up backwards it WILL NOT protect the electrical system. Does anyone know if I've got mine wired correctly. I see that one of the Circuit Breaker posts is made of copper. I assume this is done to assist in proper connection.

 

[knothead]

Question: I read somewhere that if you connect the Circuit Breaker up backwards it WILL NOT protect the electrical system. Does anyone know if I've got mine wired correctly. I see that one of the Circuit Breaker posts is made of copper. I assume this is done to assist in proper connection.

Gold goes to voltage regulator and silver to the battery

 

[Rottweiler]

Yes remember that the current flow is from the charging system to the battery.

 

[82ndAirborne]

Gold goes to voltage regulator and silver to the battery

Ok...that's the way I have it. Just wanted to be sure. Appreciate it.

 

[82ndAirborne]

Ok...here we go with Primary swap. So, I'm looking at picture 2, I would like to remove the clutch basket as a single unit.

(From my manual)
CLUTCH BASKET/ENGINE SPROCKET/PRIMARY CHAIN-REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
I see a Retaining Ring holding the Throwout bearing. The manual skips right over removing this and goes straight to removing the clutch hub Nut. I assume this is a simple oversight and I'll find the nut behind the bearing. Is this correct?

 

[82ndAirborne]

Also...the diagram in my manual shows the nut on the outside (First item to remove)??? What's up with this?

 

[82ndAirborne]

Little help...I'd like to remove my clutch basket as a single unit (not disassembled). How do I start this process. Do I remove the 4 Hex Bolts first, or the Retaining Ring and Bearing??? My manual doesn't match...it shows the Clutch Hub Nut first. I don't see the nut...I'm assuming it's behind the Throwout Bearing.

 

[HMAN]

I dunno if this will help?

 

[82ndAirborne]

Excellent! I also just found the correct diagram on Curtis' site. Appreciate it.

 

[SKOGDOG]

Working from memory (in my case perilous territory). I’m sure to have missed a point or two but you’ll figure it out if no one corrects. Loosen all clutch adjustments and remove clutch rod. When reinstalling coat rod with lube (bearing grease).
1. Remove #11
2. Remove #12 Get the little stair step locker and secure the primary chain—loosen the crankshaft bolt while you’re at it—a quality impact wrench is useful here. Don‘t ever attempt to use the elevated ‘pins’ on the inner hub (20) for leverage—they’ll snap.
3. Loosen #23 (left-hand thread) With both crank and clutch hub nuts loosened, remove the primary chain adjuster.
4. Remove the four #18 bolts I usually remove the friction/steel plates using a couple of magnets. Easy peasy.
5. you should be able then to take off the crank and clutch bolts and remove the clutch, crank drive pulley and the chain all at once
6. you’ll find two threaded holes in the rotor housing—find two bolts (I use stove bolts) and then pull (fight) the rotor magnet-do NOT strIke or drop the rotor
7. Treat the small stator bolts gently during re-assembly. The stator wires simply unplug.
8. When re-installing the wiring thru the primary housing, use a high quality RTV and cure for a day or two. Clean it obsessively inside and out or it’ll leak. I use brake cleaner.
While it’s apart you can check the clutch for stack height (1.97”for total) I think. Some have had issues with weak disc springs. I think a better one is now available if you’ve had any slippage and stack height issues good.

 

[82ndAirborne]

View attachment 139520
Working from memory (in my case perilous territory). I’m sure to have missed a point or two but you’ll figure it out if no one corrects
1. Remove #11
2. Remove #12 Get the little stair step locker and secure the primary chain—loosen the crankshaft bolt while you’re at it—a quality impact wrench is useful here.
3. Loosen #23 (left-hand thread) With both crank and clutch hub nuts loosened, remove the primary chain adjuster.
4. Remove the four #18 bolts
5. you should be able then to take off the crank and clutch bolts and remove the clutch, crank drive pulley and the chain all at once
6. you’ll find two threaded holes in the rotor housing—find two bolts (I use stove bolts) and then pull (fight) the rotor magnet-do NOT strIke or drop the rotor
7. Treat the small stator bolts gently during re-assembly.
8. When re-installing the wiring thru the primary housing, use a high quality RTV and cure for a day or two.

Wow!! Excellent. That's exactly what I needed. I'll be installing everything new inside. I have it all now, except for the clutch parts. I'll decide what I need after I take it all apart. I read an earlier post about a Hardened Clutch Hub Nut available through BAKER...I'll get one just to be on the safe side. I've got two of those Stair-Step locks and a really good Impact gun. I should be OK. I've been doing alot of research and watching videos on the procedure. Really appreciate these instructions.