ya, i believe if they came on here, they would open up a can of stink that would never go away. without a paper trail from Baker to BDM, Baker's reputation would be totally fucked.
Baker repairs
- Thread starter mittens
- Start date
Bhawkins854
Member
I had my mainshaft and main bearing go bad recently at around 25k miles. I talked to some guys at baker and they told me the bearing failure on these BDM transmissions are mostly due to improper primary chain tensioning (way too tight ). Find that hard to believe when the low grade FAG bearings they put in them stock have half the load carrying capacity as a SKF or koyo. I took it apart myself and went to my bearing shop and replaced every one with either SKF or koyo. I ordered a primary rebuild kit and a transmission rebuild kit direct from baker, I tried to just order the seals from baker without the shitty bearings but they said it would cost just as much without the bearings. ..so the bearings are so shitty they are free?? Turned out damn good for me being an electrician haha. I would talk to Andrew, guy knows these transmissions !
BadDawg Bill
Well-Known Member
That's interesting. Did Baker admit to putting in FAG bearings? I can't believe they would put cheap bearings in when they charge so much for the trans and they have to warranty them.
Bhawkins854
Member
seemed to me like the individual I spoke with didn't want to disclose much info on why they chose these bearings..I've had great luck with getting questions answered from baker in the past. I have the old bearings in my garage, as well as the new bearings they sent with the rebuild kit. The mainshaft, and main bearings are both FAG. I only have about 1k Mikes on the rebuild so I can't say too much quite yet, all I know is they better last twice as long.
Bhawkins854
Member
I'm with you, when you talking about a several thousand dollar transmission. .why would you cheap out and not put the best bearings in that you could? I think it cost me around 150 or so to upgrade the 4 case bearings. The most expensive being the mainshaft because it's a double row ball bearing. The list price was 3 times what the FAG bearing was. So what's a couple hundred extra dollars in a few thousand dollar trans?
Bhawkins854
Member
Getting back to the main question of this guy's trans leaking..I had a .020 run out on my input shaft when the bearing went...should have .000-.003. My seal never blew out and it didn't leak a drop even with roached bearings. granted I caught the bearing issue very early.
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mittens
Well-Known Member
I cleaned up the garage last night, Got bike on lift, Drained Primary, opened it up, removed Compensator Nut (I thik i used to much lock tight last time ha), then tentioner, then Clutch basket (same deal with lock tight...) so its sitting ready to remove inner primary today.
mittens
Well-Known Member
THat is my plan, going to take my time once I get tot he actuall Tranny removal... mark shims with numbers, and separat baggys so it goes right back where it was...
Fibersnake
Banjo Playing PsychoBilly
I will just say that mine as over 40K on it right now and nothing other than regular maintenance has been done on it. May go out next time I ride, but for now it is fine. I check the primary chain everytime I change the primary fluid which is about every 5k and use plain old Revtec Primary Fluid and change out the tranny with plain old Revtech Tranny fluid at every oil change along with the lube the clutch push rod.
Brew
Troop Supporter
Word of advice, I took both my trans off my bikes and they weren't shimmed correctly. If you are smart and I believe you are, once you're ready to put it back together. Install your inner primary bolt it up to the motor good then install your tranny with the 6 bolts no shims. Get out your trusty feeler gauge and check each mount area and mark the thickness for each mount area on paper. Then take the trans and the inner primary off and install per the book. Shimm up the trans per your measurements. You'll be good to go!
mittens
Well-Known Member
Well Mine was not shimmed at all. Tranny sitting right on the frame.
Shipped to baker friday, will get there tomorrow.
I plan to bolt up the primary, to both, and see where the tranny sits, shimm accordingly. and then lock down the tranny once its good, then remove Primary and install all the guts, and stuff.
Shipped to baker friday, will get there tomorrow.
I plan to bolt up the primary, to both, and see where the tranny sits, shimm accordingly. and then lock down the tranny once its good, then remove Primary and install all the guts, and stuff.
mittens
Well-Known Member
So I had a issue with the stand off nuts in the clutch basket not being tight last time I took it apart. So this time I planned on a full repair. Last night I stated looking closely at the clutch basket, took out the clutch packs and so on..
So there is 4 stand off nuts, 2 are tight (across from one another), and allowed me to snug up the 4 spring bolts. 2 let you tighten them but right before they lock, the stand off nuts spin... I was un aware of these wher screwed into the inner hub or what, but the spring botls where tight, and they have a locking tabs on them, so I assembled and rode it last season...
so after some research, I find there ARE bolts that comes from the BACK side of the inner hub, into these stand off nuts. so I shoul dbe able to tighten these down and resolve the spinning of the Stand off nuts when tightening the spring bolts down.
I removed the snap ring holding inner hub in bearing, and will press out tonight (had to locate a press as my garage is lacking one) re-lock-tight all 4 stand off nuts, and tighten them down good into the Inner hub. This should fix my problem.
BUT I found a new problem, there are bolts under the inner Hub (you can see them, but cant get tot hem with the Allen head), holding the Double Primary Chain sprocket to the basket. they are all loose. The clutch plate keeps them from backing out, and coming apart all together. BUT the sprocket can spin a few degrees separate from the basket. This is wrong, I am hoping i can retorque with lock tight these bolts as well, once I press out the inner hub to get tot he Allen heads. BUT they may have wiggled loose so much from the constant on? off pressure of the motor, that I will need to replace the double sproket, and bolts. anyone ever had this problem? (Bolts backing out of double primary chain sproket/basket)
This is mostly for info incase other have this problem, and or my reference later. BUt feel free to tell me things as I am always learning.
Here is the back side of the Inner Hub, you can see the 4 bolts, I need to get to, to hold while i tighten the stand off nuts.
Here you can see the Stand off nuts in the Inner hub from the out side...
Here you can see the spring bolts, tighened on the stand off nuts when its all put together.
Here is the bolts holding the primary chain double sproket onto the clutch basket. This one is not the same as mine, as my bolts are visable, but under the inner hub, so you cant tighten them with out removing the inner hub.
So there is 4 stand off nuts, 2 are tight (across from one another), and allowed me to snug up the 4 spring bolts. 2 let you tighten them but right before they lock, the stand off nuts spin... I was un aware of these wher screwed into the inner hub or what, but the spring botls where tight, and they have a locking tabs on them, so I assembled and rode it last season...
so after some research, I find there ARE bolts that comes from the BACK side of the inner hub, into these stand off nuts. so I shoul dbe able to tighten these down and resolve the spinning of the Stand off nuts when tightening the spring bolts down.
I removed the snap ring holding inner hub in bearing, and will press out tonight (had to locate a press as my garage is lacking one) re-lock-tight all 4 stand off nuts, and tighten them down good into the Inner hub. This should fix my problem.
BUT I found a new problem, there are bolts under the inner Hub (you can see them, but cant get tot hem with the Allen head), holding the Double Primary Chain sprocket to the basket. they are all loose. The clutch plate keeps them from backing out, and coming apart all together. BUT the sprocket can spin a few degrees separate from the basket. This is wrong, I am hoping i can retorque with lock tight these bolts as well, once I press out the inner hub to get tot he Allen heads. BUT they may have wiggled loose so much from the constant on? off pressure of the motor, that I will need to replace the double sproket, and bolts. anyone ever had this problem? (Bolts backing out of double primary chain sproket/basket)
This is mostly for info incase other have this problem, and or my reference later. BUt feel free to tell me things as I am always learning.
Here is the back side of the Inner Hub, you can see the 4 bolts, I need to get to, to hold while i tighten the stand off nuts.
Here you can see the Stand off nuts in the Inner hub from the out side...
Here you can see the spring bolts, tighened on the stand off nuts when its all put together.
Here is the bolts holding the primary chain double sproket onto the clutch basket. This one is not the same as mine, as my bolts are visable, but under the inner hub, so you cant tighten them with out removing the inner hub.
mittens
Well-Known Member
Well pressed the inner hub out, and, going to need a new basket I think, the holes for the 6 bolts holding the primary chain sproket on, are wallered out and you can see Thread indentions from the screws making them holes oblong. the bolts them selves at whole, but threads on some are messed up, and the double sproket tapped holes are wallered out some with the threads not perfect....
So, New/ Used parts. OR the thought of retapping Sroket bigger size bolts, redrilling basket for new bolts, and new bolts as well... but probably will keep it all off the self items, and fix the right way.
So, New/ Used parts. OR the thought of retapping Sroket bigger size bolts, redrilling basket for new bolts, and new bolts as well... but probably will keep it all off the self items, and fix the right way.
mittens
Well-Known Member
Well that was $$ find. Parts on order, most should be coming in this week and next.
Rivera Primo does not make that Outer Basket with a bolted on double sprocket anymore, they make it one peace now. so this problem should not happen again.
Parts ordered:
Outer basket W 37T double sprocket
Main bearing for basket
Clips for pressure plate bolts
Primary chain
Auto tensioner
Gasket Kit
clear head light, W/LED bulb
Still waiting to hear back from Baker.
Rivera Primo does not make that Outer Basket with a bolted on double sprocket anymore, they make it one peace now. so this problem should not happen again.
Parts ordered:
Outer basket W 37T double sprocket
Main bearing for basket
Clips for pressure plate bolts
Primary chain
Auto tensioner
Gasket Kit
clear head light, W/LED bulb
Still waiting to hear back from Baker.
What year is your skoot?
In the LSD models they did put some together with Jims cases and baker insides. But if you have an LSD model you should have TP heads so I am confused? Or you just making general assumptions across the spectrum and years?
At the end of the day many have been happy with their LSD transmissions and long lasting. Some have gotten 100k miles on the engines with TP heads with not even a single rebuild. Baker put the mainshaft in that we know can break, I'm sure BD didn't tell them to put a subpar mainshaft that was an error by Baker.
Let's remember these guys were in business to make money.
I think the only big mistake BD made was going with a proprietary electrical system. That cost them in multiple areas, as it was difficult for shops to work on the bikes because their mechanics didn't understand the electrical system as well as the DIY'er. Not everyone wants to read everything and know their bike inside out. Personally I do all the work myself, but I don't trust anyone else but I also can't afford anyone else :roll:
mittens
Well-Known Member
Well fuck.
Baker called, gears, and stuff looked good, leak was because of a race that walked out and got into a seal from the inside....
BUT they they asked, What happened to the starter ear? I said Huh?
SO I sent them a picture of the tranny before I shipped it with the case in tack, and starter ear on it... its not broken off, so UPS must have dropped it... also after that finding, and closer inspection, they also bent the main shaft.
So starting a claim with UPS to try and get it paid for. (luckily i did add insurance to it in the amount of 2k, hopefully that will fix cover it all)
