Upgrade your charging system when you replace the EHC.
that is what the gentleman from Wildsteed worx said also.Upgrade your charging system when you replace the EHC.
Most EHC problems stem from old charging system components. Because there is no protection between the two.that is what the gentleman from Wildsteed worx said also.
I plan on upgrading the charging system but there is only so much in my piggyMost EHC problems stem from old charging system components. Because there is no protection between the two.
Oh thank you!Here is the manual for Axel's EHC for a 2004. It says to install a 25 amp inline fuse before the EHC.
Also from this post page # 37EHC replacement
Very nice Thanks for the update and great work Axel Sent from my Life One X3 using Tapatalkwww.bigdogbiker.com
I just put in the fuse. But that surge protector sound cool.KEMO surge protection 12V / M168
Innovative and reliable unit. It is simple to assemble and your electrical equipment live longer.www.highlight-led.de
When you order it from Curtis it will already come with the fuse link in....all you have to do is hook it all upOh thank you!
I will definitely fuse it also.
I sure hope this is the issue. Curtis said all red leds means its toast.
Excellent! I ordered last night. He seems like a really nice guy.When you order it from Curtis it will already come with the fuse link in....all you have to do is hook it all up
Yeah,,, He seems like a really nice guy,,, but I gotta tell ya, He IS a REALLY NICE GUY !Excellent! I ordered last night. He seems like a really nice guy.
Thanks Rottweiler, it says you can do some cool adjustments. Bonus!Here is the manual for Axel's EHC for a 2004. It says to install a 25 amp inline fuse before the EHC.
Also from this post page # 37EHC replacement
Very nice Thanks for the update and great work Axel Sent from my Life One X3 using Tapatalkwww.bigdogbiker.com
I just put in the fuse. But that surge protector sound cool.KEMO surge protection 12V / M168
Innovative and reliable unit. It is simple to assemble and your electrical equipment live longer.www.highlight-led.de
And there you go, a self diagnosing code. If it's lit, it's a brick.Curtis said all red leds means its toast.
Please ExplainAnd there you go, a self diagnosing code. If it's lit, it's a brick.
Signed,
Flip Flop
Does it matter if it's carburator or a fancy paint job? Mines non EFI and black.Diagnosing a computer bike goes something like this.
ON = This means the processor only moves in two ways. Either there is a magnetic hold so flow travels.
OFF = Or this move is to stop the flow and this is not magnetized to hold a gate open for flow, but stops.
60 cycles per second = This is more a controlled wave length that man can manipulate. The physical part on the motherboard uses an integrated chip [IC] or what is known as a 555 timer. This part is the 60 cycle exploiter. Think of blinking Christmas lights. Slow is the blink, or it's going on/off so fast, these 3 movements consist of a held charge of current up a wire like the speed of the rpm of the engine. This current charge has a wave length due to the making of magnetism up the wire and determines rpm.
To know the next speed coming in, the 555 acts like a toilet. The tank is holding that charge or wave length. The handle is the trigger that empties the last wave converted to speed. The capacitor was just emptied or discharged and the cycle starts over again. That's how the tach works, that's how fuel injected determines how much fuel per that wave length of rpm speed (we keep it simple).
Flip Flop 1 = Notice how it goes (+) to (-) or better known as flip-flop. So it's Threshold [of an electrical value saved], then Triggered [to empty the capacitor], then that Discharge [to ground] is now ready for the next rpm, wheel spinning up, or wheel slowing down with the front end in the air, or ABS as it flip-flops the wheel from locking and puts you back in control, done thousands of times a second goes the flip-flopping.
Codes = The very simple but complex diagnosing of a code. A code can only occur with 3 movements. The wire is out of the connector is one. The connector not connected is two. The jobber is short to ground/broken wire inside/signal out of range is basically the third one, but that was grabbing a branch of the root of the trouble code. The root to a code is a no signal or a value out of range.
Analog = This is the whole concept of the computer's input signal. The jobber is making many values of input. Say the jobber is the crank sensor. It's just a magnet and a sweep of the cup breaks the signal at the open cut of the cup. It took how long to break the contact. It was (+) ON. The window made (-) current and flop is the magnetism cut at the moment. You can use this as one concept as flip-flop occurrence.
Digital = Whereas, this means only one of the same value is shown. So the basis of the black box converting a different analog value is a working processor, no LED's or check engine light (CEL) on the dash. That means there is no-constant-single-digit-as-the-input. You now apply wire out and see no sig as a single digit that codes. You see the connector shows the analog is not in play; and the digit is now coded on the black box or car's dash. You know the jobber has all the wires connected outside, but inside the jobber; it burnt like a fuse and that says digit or no signal.
Flip-Flop 2 = So code is the single digit being sent in over and over. Note that the wire out/connector not connected is a loop. You did have (+). But with that wire is burnt/is out/not connected, it goes digital. That means flip was at the magnetic hold. Flop, it no longer can, so that second movement is (-). Where did (+) go to then? It held all the LED's ON = Self Coded BRICK.
So I talked to an EE and sure it makes sense that the capacitor acts as a balancing of the frequency. Who cares, it still can be calc'd as a 1/on or 0/off.. are those two movements.Gotta be one of these
What do you mean "all lights come on as normal". Do you mean headlight, blinkers and brake lights all work correctly? No start could mean you have an ignition or fuel problem. Make sure your getting fuel to the carburetor then start troubleshooting the Ignition system. Look for a red light on the ignition module after you hit the run switch. If you do get the light your getting power to the Ignition module and if it blinks while cranking the engine your getting the signal to fire the coil. Pull the plugs and ground them while cranking the look for spark. If no spark suspect a bad coil if you get one plug to fire suspect a bad plug or plug wire on the cylinder not firing.Gotta be one of these
B - Engine will turn but not start:
Check for spark.
Check for loose connections at coil and battery.
Check ignition module.
Check the crank position sensor.
Check continuity to the RUN/OFF button.