Replacing Stator

Energy One

Brew

Troop Supporter
Your doing nothing wrong! When the site was revamped we lost a lot of pics to the how-tos...
 

cd24747

Active Member
Reaaaaalllly old bump but is there any way that you can repost the pictures. I’ve gotta do this project again.
 

Th3InfamousI

Administrator
Staff member
Reaaaaalllly old bump but is there any way that you can repost the pictures. I’ve gotta do this project again.
Unfortunately this is a very old thread back in 2012 and with multiple forum upgrades and the PhotoBucket 3rd party issue we lost quite a few of these.

Overall the stator job is pretty easy and the write-up if you follow along will be pretty self explanatory once you open it up. However, is there any particular picture you are looking for? I just replaced mine recently so have pics but not broke down like the above.

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TapioK

Well-Known Member
Unfortunately this is a very old thread back in 2012 and with multiple forum upgrades and the PhotoBucket 3rd party issue we lost quite a few of these.

Overall the stator job is pretty easy and the write-up if you follow along will be pretty self explanatory once you open it up. However, is there any particular picture you are looking for? I just replaced mine recently so have pics but not broke down like the above.

Sent from my 2PS64 using Tapatalk
Eric, did you go 40amp? I’m just trying to figure why. To my understanding our battery can charge at max 30 Amp, and we have no huge stereos etc on bike to eat Amps...


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Th3InfamousI

Administrator
Staff member
Eric, did you go 40amp? I’m just trying to figure why. To my understanding our battery can charge at max 30 Amp, and we have no huge stereos etc on bike to eat Amps...


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No I didn't go with the 40 it's almost 2x the price.

I agree it's not really needed on our bikes, however it does charge at 14.4v at idle whereas the 32 does not. Minor detail.

The one caveat for the 40amp is heated gear, which is nice to have on long hauls. I am an idiot and didn't bring the jacket with me on my last trip and I paid for it on a few early mornings just makes it much more comfortable. Anyways, my jacket and gloves draw about 8amps on High which is still fine for 32 but If you have a passenger with heated gear it might be worthwhile to go 40.

Also, if you go with the compufire doesn't matter if it's 32 or 40 you'll need to grind down the bosses on the inner primary to get the rotor to fit.

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Jersey Big Mike

100K mile club
No I didn't go with the 40 it's almost 2x the price.

I agree it's not really needed on our bikes, however it does charge at 14.4v at idle whereas the 32 does not. Minor detail.

The one caveat for the 40amp is heated gear, which is nice to have on long hauls. I am an idiot and didn't bring the jacket with me on my last trip and I paid for it on a few early mornings just makes it much more comfortable. Anyways, my jacket and gloves draw about 8amps on High which is still fine for 32 but If you have a passenger with heated gear it might be worthwhile to go 40.

Also, if you go with the compufire doesn't matter if it's 32 or 40 you'll need to grind down the bosses on the inner primary to get the rotor to fit.

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Depends on the year if you have to grind them down -- I've done 2 08 K-9's to the CompuFire 40A nad neither required any grinding.
I went 40A since I am thinking about heated gear and some add-on electronics and I love that it charges at idle.
Overkill but that's how I roll sometimes -- go big or stay home!
 

Th3InfamousI

Administrator
Staff member
Depends on the year if you have to grind them down -- I've done 2 08 K-9's to the CompuFire 40A nad neither required any grinding.
I went 40A since I am thinking about heated gear and some add-on electronics and I love that it charges at idle.
Overkill but that's how I roll sometimes -- go big or stay home!
did you happen to take the inner primary off when you did the install? I did that on one install and it does fit and I ran it for about 10k miles but down the road I couldn't get the rotor off with just the primary cover because of how tight it was magnetized and you have to kinda of wiggle it off with the teeth. On is fine, off is hard

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Jwooky

Well-Known Member
I did not take my inner off.

Kinda wish I had and replaced seals because I have since developed a small nagging leak.
 

Jersey Big Mike

100K mile club
did you happen to take the inner primary off when you did the install? I did that on one install and it does fit and I ran it for about 10k miles but down the road I couldn't get the rotor off with just the primary cover because of how tight it was magnetized and you have to kinda of wiggle it off with the teeth. On is fine, off is hard

Sent from my 2PS64 using Tapatalk
There are threaded hole in the rotor that you can put bolts in and use them as a puller.
The bolts are different sizes for Compufire and Stock big Dog.

I had the inner off the last time, only beacuse I was replacing the transmission as well.
My charging system was OK, I just figured now was the time to do an upgraded that I wanted. (since it was apart already.)
 

cd24747

Active Member
I can not for the life of me figure out how to get the rotor off so I can get to the stator. Any ideas?
 
Good write-up, I did mine two years ago and yes step #6 can drive you crazy! I forgot my hex screw and just about wrecked my plug trying to get it out.
 

Big Kev

Member
Your doing nothing wrong! When the site was revamped we lost a lot of pics to the how-tos...
I can’t see the pics either, I can see where the pics supposed to be. I understand there were upgrades causing old images not to be able to be viewed from older posts but I get the same [IMG] thing when trying to check out the Ass & Tits of the Day pics and that’s just unacceptable!!

Any possible fix?
 

cd24747

Active Member
Got the new stator and voltage regulator in. Bike is back together... starts with a jump but still not charging the battery. Any thoughts?
 
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