Replacing Stator

Pitbu1l

Member
Replacing Rotor & Stator

It looks like I will soon be replacing the stator on my '06 Pitbull. I plan on taking step by step pics in case anyone thinks this would be a good tutorial.

**UPDATE** Sorry this is taking so long... I need to rename it, Replacing Rotor and Stator... ran into a serious issue, can't wait to show pics and do the write up... should be posting Friday 8/10.

Ok... here is the install... hope this helps anyone having to do this.

**Please no comments on the condition of any of the metal, I just got it a month ago and the former owner DID NOT take care of it... I will have it as close to show quality soon, but for now... I know, it looks terrible.**

Disassemble -

1. Drain primary of all fluid possible. The guy that sold me the bike told me he took great care of it... my primary oil was disgusting!

2. Take out the 14 screws around the primary and peel it open. You are gonna have more fluid leak out that this point, so have rags ready.

3. Place a chock in the front gear and loosen the compensator nut. It should have Red Locktite on it and will be extremely tough. You will need a 33mm socket for this.
** I didn't take pics of the above, sorry**

3. Loosen nut on chain tensioner and remove it. This would be a good time to inspect the shoe to make sure it's not worn.


4. Remove front gear sprocket. Make sure not to twist/bend the chain. This is also a good time to check the teeth on the sprocket to make sure none are chipped or broken.


Here is where we found the MAJOR issue with my rotor. Somehow the teeth on my old rotor got chewed off by the crank... my guess is someone got in there and didn't put it back right, leaving it loose and it tore it up big time.

5. Remove old rotor. You will need either 2 dentist picks or a rotor puller to remove it. It has 2 holes on the face to grip through. Mine was not hard to get off because the magnets were filled with metal, so it wasn't very strong, but if you're stator just burnt out, it will be a strong magnetic pull to remove it.


6. Loosen the hex tension screw on the outside of the primary case next to where you plug the voltage regulator into the stator. We forgot this step and about lost our minds trying to remove the plug and install the new one.


7. Remove the 4 hex bolts holding the Stator in place and pull out old Stator. We used the butt end of a screw driver to push the connector through the primary case while gently pulling on the stator wires from the inside. Just to be clear, this is a much easier job with a buddy.. hahaha.


8. Now is the time to clean out the primary and inspect all old and new parts.
Clean out Primary

Clean Primary cover

Remove and clean O rings if you choose


Old Stator and New Stator... Notice the new stator is vastly different and much bigger. I admit, I freaked out when I compared the 2 just knowing it wasn't gonna fit, but it did.


Old Rotor and New Rotor... again notice the vast difference and size... this rotor fits MUCH closer to the edge of the primary than the stock did. Plus the magnets are MUCH bigger... you will only have about an 1/18th clearance.

Notice anything missing off the old rotor? NO TEETH



Reassembly -

9. Install new stator... We used silicone to help lube and seal the connector port.




Make sure you have a torque wrench handy and look up the torque specs. I think these were 25lbs for the 4 hex bolts.


Retighten the Stator connector tension screw

10.Slide on the proper spacer


11. Install the rotor... careful, you will get a STRONG magnetic pull and you don't want it slamming into something it shouldn't be.


12. Get your front sprocket back in the chain and thread it onto the crank shaft.


13. Put your chain tensioner back in place and adjust to where chain has 5/8" - 7/8" play in it.

14. Put your spacer back on and apply red locktite to your compensator nut, chock the chain and tighten your compensator nut to 150lbs.


15. Hard part is over... now just apply silicone or whatever you want to use around your O rings and primary case and tighten the 14 screws back in place for the outer Primary.

16. Reinstall your Primary drain plug and fill with Primary Fluid.

17. Hook your voltage regulator back up... hook a voltage meter to the battery and crank up the bike... you should see proper voltage readings.

Here are the parts I used
Stator

Rotor



**Disclaimer** - I am writing this from memory, half was done a week ago and half was finished last night. I may miss a thing or two so read all instructions and take your time. Also, we took the time to clean all bolts and reapply locktite and I suggest you do too.

If you have any questions, I will do my best to answer them... hope this helps.
 
Last edited:

Moespeeds

Well-Known Member
Your front pulley nut must have loosened up at some point, it's pretty common. The hardened mainshaft spins and mills the teeth right off it then the thing starts wobbling and sounds like an upside down bowl sliding across a table. I don't know why they don't have some way to safety wire or otherwise lock that nut.
 

KnotSo

Admin
Staff member
Lifetime Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Good write up and we all appreciate it:cheers::2thumbs::cheers:
 

pknowles

semi-retired...---... GURU C7Z06...---...
Lifetime Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Your front pulley nut must have loosened up at some point, it's pretty common. The hardened mainshaft spins and mills the teeth right off it then the thing starts wobbling and sounds like an upside down bowl sliding across a table. I don't know why they don't have some way to safety wire or otherwise lock that nut.
Could you drill and tap the nut and use a set screw. Probably have to put a indent in the crank shaft at the point were the set screw hits.

Almost forgot, nice wirte up and pics of the stator swap:2thumbs:
 

cd24747

Active Member
I just did this project on my 08 AIH Texas Chopper. Basically the same thing but the compensator nut is 1 1/2".
Also, there is a tool made to hold the chain in place. I'm told that this tool can be ordered from specialty shops such as Drag Specialties, etc....
I borrowed mine from a buddy and it made the job 100 times easier than I thought it would be.
 

EmilHD

New Member
HI My nameis Emil. Im from NYC living in Ireland. ive just compleated my Wire Plus wiring on a 2005 Bulldog for a friend. Now I need to replace the stator. I was looking at your post - very informative thanks. I have the same kit (HDEVO Stator replacement) thatyou used. I was going to purchase a kit from BigDog but saw your post and decided that ill use the HD kit instead.
How much would this have cost you if you had to pay for the partsd and labour? And do you think the HD kit will be ok for my 2005 bulldog ? Thanks
 

cd24747

Active Member
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1350829962.188434.jpg

This is that tool I spoke if earlier that really made the job a piece of cake.


Gun control is not about guns, it's about control.

Sent from my iPhone 5 using Tapatalk
 

Pitbu1l

Member
@EmilHD- The job was quoted to me between $500 - $600 parts and labor. It's really not that hard and that's coming from a guy that REALLY isn't very mechanical at all. I am not sure what HD Kit you are talking about, I took pics of all the parts I used and my Dog is running great and I've no issues with charging since. I hope this gets you going and you have great success with the project.
 
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