Jones
Member
I will go into particulars here . This should save you some time. I have the tank removed already. I ordered the “lock key” for JP cycle to remove the paint saver. I did not want to wait a week for it to get delivered so I started the project.
I could not get out all off the gas so I used a “dip stick oil pump” that I use on my boat to remove the remaining gas from the tank. Next you need to get out any residual fumes from the tank. Simple way is to fill and flush with water. I didn’t want water in my tank. I used compressed air and exchanged the air in the tank a dozen times. When I could not smell gas I was comfortable to drill. Next pull the plug from the rear of the tank. When you look inside you will see the end of the tubing attached to the bung via a fitting. Use a 9/64 drill bit. . Wrap duct tape around the bit shank leaving ¾” exposed. This will help you to not damage the female threads in the bung. If you screw the threads up you will more then likely need to repaint the tank after the new bung is welded in. The bit will self center. The bit will “bite and twist the tank… hold tight and make sure the tank is stable (ill get to that). You will hear the tube break free. What I did to secure the tank for drilling…I wrapped the tank in a clean blanket and then I wrapped a packing quilt around that. I placed the tank on its side and just shimmed it up where needed to tilt the bung towards the floor a bit in order to let gravity pull the shavings out of the tank instead of into the tank. Would have been easier to drill straight down and hold the tank between my legs. Then all the shavings would go in the tank. If you screw up the threads try using a “bottoming tap” to chase the threads. Now I’m ready to get the tubing out. It will be a bit easier with the paint saver out. I had time so I decided to try to get her out. Use thin long needle nose pliers and a 12” section of coat hanger to work the end of the tub to the filler neck. This is difficult. The curve 3-4 inches from the end makes it hard to get the end “up” roll the tubing one way hold with the needle nose and roll it again. I got stuck rolling towards me and then I rolled the other way and the end popped up for me to grab. You can pull out about 3 inches. Now this tubing…is super tough stainless steel might be Manel stainless. You will need lineman pliers or channel locks. Bend the tube and pull out more…you get about 1” more with each bend. Did this three times then I had to break the pipe because the end was going to hit the tank with the radius I was putting in with the bending. If you bend the pipe back and forth 2-3 times it will break. I had to break twice. After that, 2 more “bend and pulls” got the tube out. I’m sure if you remove the paint saver it would be easier. Took a pen magnet and put it in the bung and pulled out a few more shavings. Put a pint of gas in the tank, shook the tank as it drained thru the bung to keep any shavings in suspension. Then I put another pint in shook it well and sucked it out with my oil pump…gas was clean.
Installed the plug in the bung with a gas/oil rated pipe dope (don’t use locktite)
Installed the tank, not one scratch, I’m happy.
Hope this helps when you gotta tackle this job. I was surprised that the tubing was not bent to fit perfectly from the drain bung to the tank filler neck attachment point. When the tack weld broke at the filler neck the end of the tube was 4 inches away from the tack point. I tried to bend it back to the original position before I drilled out the other end. I could not get it to that point (and I’m strong) The tubing was under a lot of tension as it sat “tacked on” to the filler neck. It’s no wonder it broke off. If the tubing lined up and was tack welded with no forced tension the weld probably would have held…..Im getting long winded…anyway Hope this helps….Anyone has any questions just reply on this thread or PM me.
Regards to all JUICE
I could not get out all off the gas so I used a “dip stick oil pump” that I use on my boat to remove the remaining gas from the tank. Next you need to get out any residual fumes from the tank. Simple way is to fill and flush with water. I didn’t want water in my tank. I used compressed air and exchanged the air in the tank a dozen times. When I could not smell gas I was comfortable to drill. Next pull the plug from the rear of the tank. When you look inside you will see the end of the tubing attached to the bung via a fitting. Use a 9/64 drill bit. . Wrap duct tape around the bit shank leaving ¾” exposed. This will help you to not damage the female threads in the bung. If you screw the threads up you will more then likely need to repaint the tank after the new bung is welded in. The bit will self center. The bit will “bite and twist the tank… hold tight and make sure the tank is stable (ill get to that). You will hear the tube break free. What I did to secure the tank for drilling…I wrapped the tank in a clean blanket and then I wrapped a packing quilt around that. I placed the tank on its side and just shimmed it up where needed to tilt the bung towards the floor a bit in order to let gravity pull the shavings out of the tank instead of into the tank. Would have been easier to drill straight down and hold the tank between my legs. Then all the shavings would go in the tank. If you screw up the threads try using a “bottoming tap” to chase the threads. Now I’m ready to get the tubing out. It will be a bit easier with the paint saver out. I had time so I decided to try to get her out. Use thin long needle nose pliers and a 12” section of coat hanger to work the end of the tub to the filler neck. This is difficult. The curve 3-4 inches from the end makes it hard to get the end “up” roll the tubing one way hold with the needle nose and roll it again. I got stuck rolling towards me and then I rolled the other way and the end popped up for me to grab. You can pull out about 3 inches. Now this tubing…is super tough stainless steel might be Manel stainless. You will need lineman pliers or channel locks. Bend the tube and pull out more…you get about 1” more with each bend. Did this three times then I had to break the pipe because the end was going to hit the tank with the radius I was putting in with the bending. If you bend the pipe back and forth 2-3 times it will break. I had to break twice. After that, 2 more “bend and pulls” got the tube out. I’m sure if you remove the paint saver it would be easier. Took a pen magnet and put it in the bung and pulled out a few more shavings. Put a pint of gas in the tank, shook the tank as it drained thru the bung to keep any shavings in suspension. Then I put another pint in shook it well and sucked it out with my oil pump…gas was clean.
Installed the plug in the bung with a gas/oil rated pipe dope (don’t use locktite)
Installed the tank, not one scratch, I’m happy.
Hope this helps when you gotta tackle this job. I was surprised that the tubing was not bent to fit perfectly from the drain bung to the tank filler neck attachment point. When the tack weld broke at the filler neck the end of the tube was 4 inches away from the tack point. I tried to bend it back to the original position before I drilled out the other end. I could not get it to that point (and I’m strong) The tubing was under a lot of tension as it sat “tacked on” to the filler neck. It’s no wonder it broke off. If the tubing lined up and was tack welded with no forced tension the weld probably would have held…..Im getting long winded…anyway Hope this helps….Anyone has any questions just reply on this thread or PM me.
Regards to all JUICE
