Clutch Cable Poll
- Thread starter BBChopper
- Start date
BubbleHead
Big Dog Biker test account
Not sure if this counts but I always put it in netural with the clutch out at a stop but my cable adjuster snapped in half, not my cable itself. Of course leave it up to me to be the first to do that.
Don't understand why you ask if you've broken one at a stop sign! I broke mine when in "Tittie Alley" at Little Sturgis back in 05. Stop and go clutching the bike until it let loose at the tranny end. Replacement cable has lasted since with over 30,000 miles on it.
Over 20 yrs of HDs and never broke a clutch cable before.
:flag: :flag: :flag:
Over 20 yrs of HDs and never broke a clutch cable before.
:flag: :flag: :flag:
Never said anything about it breaking at a stop. I was curious if guys that leave it in gear break more cables than those who go to neutral. I personally but it to neutral right before I stop.
Oh, the title of the poll is
so that is what I thought.
Mine broke while riding and I think Knotso's went while riding also.
Nomad2day
Longhair Redneck Geek
Yep kinda of.....
My "adjuster" threads broke in half. My clutch basket nut had spun free and when I went to check it out I found that. I ended up having to pay for a new one when the shop checked out the clutch basket and cleaned the plates out or said they did anyway......Clutch basket wore out the primary cover also but nothing was done because they said it was only cosmetic damage
Neil
My "adjuster" threads broke in half. My clutch basket nut had spun free and when I went to check it out I found that. I ended up having to pay for a new one when the shop checked out the clutch basket and cleaned the plates out or said they did anyway......Clutch basket wore out the primary cover also but nothing was done because they said it was only cosmetic damage
Neil
Fibersnake
Banjo Playing PsychoBilly
Broke mine while coming off the Interstate in Between down shift. Had to ride 35 mile of so home with no clutch doing the roll and shift and match speeds. Just replaced it after checking out clutch, primary, tranny, etc.
All good and after figuring how to adjust the diaphrame clutch spring to proper specs, filling up with ATF (saw it on Baker Web Site as recommendation), better shifting than I can every recall.
Happy Dog!!!!!
All good and after figuring how to adjust the diaphrame clutch spring to proper specs, filling up with ATF (saw it on Baker Web Site as recommendation), better shifting than I can every recall.
Happy Dog!!!!!
scubaman15
Well-Known Member
ATF in the primary..yes ? This sounds like it should work great... Is this what you have done Tim . Did you use DextronIII? And you talk about figuring out how to adjust clutch spring....just what did you find out?? Something new?
Fibersnake
Banjo Playing PsychoBilly
Scubaman,
I was researching the Baker Tech Info for some of their clutches (it appears that our stock are very close if not a Baker Street Perfomance type). In the reading of their install I noted that it said fill with primary fluid, however they (Baker) indicated that ATF (Dextron/Mercon) will provide better results.
So I figure what the hell, give it a try-so I did and I must say it did seem to be more alive on the clutch. May be due to have pulled it all part and cleaned out everything and then install fresh, not sure. I will say it makes sense though since the Basic of a AT is very similar with wet clutch and gear and some cases chains.
As far as the adjustment. I was speaking of how much to compress ther diaphrame spring too insure the proper pressure. After re-reading the SM, I found that it said that the diaphrame should be .020-.040" from flat when new and that if it exceeds .068" when properly tighten, the clutch may need to have plates and/or pressure plate replaced. My problem is that I could not find what the proper torque was when the 4 bolts of that hold the pivot plate to diaphragme spring (which in turn compress the pressure plate) was. After researching, I found that the Baker for the Street Perfomance was indicated at 200 inch pounds.
So I torque the four 5/16 X 18 X 2" bolts (after putting some Red Loctite on them) in a cross pattern slowly to 200" pounds of torque. After I was done, check the spring heigth with a depth micrometer and found it to be at .032" +/- .002 all the way around.
After getting it all back together, new clutch cable adjusted, etc, went for a nice little ride and was very pleased.
Not sure on the ATF but it indicated Dextron-Mercon. Would love to hear from Puppy Farm any input on thoughts on the ATF. Will say pleasantly surprised and makes sense.
Here is the Install for the Baker Street Performance Clutch which appears to be very similar to ours, they show it has 9 Plate but mine is 12, I know the newer ones are 9 Plate though on the BD.
https://www.bakerdrivetrain.com/clutches/SP9-instructions.pdf
Hope this helps.
I was researching the Baker Tech Info for some of their clutches (it appears that our stock are very close if not a Baker Street Perfomance type). In the reading of their install I noted that it said fill with primary fluid, however they (Baker) indicated that ATF (Dextron/Mercon) will provide better results.
So I figure what the hell, give it a try-so I did and I must say it did seem to be more alive on the clutch. May be due to have pulled it all part and cleaned out everything and then install fresh, not sure. I will say it makes sense though since the Basic of a AT is very similar with wet clutch and gear and some cases chains.
As far as the adjustment. I was speaking of how much to compress ther diaphrame spring too insure the proper pressure. After re-reading the SM, I found that it said that the diaphrame should be .020-.040" from flat when new and that if it exceeds .068" when properly tighten, the clutch may need to have plates and/or pressure plate replaced. My problem is that I could not find what the proper torque was when the 4 bolts of that hold the pivot plate to diaphragme spring (which in turn compress the pressure plate) was. After researching, I found that the Baker for the Street Perfomance was indicated at 200 inch pounds.
So I torque the four 5/16 X 18 X 2" bolts (after putting some Red Loctite on them) in a cross pattern slowly to 200" pounds of torque. After I was done, check the spring heigth with a depth micrometer and found it to be at .032" +/- .002 all the way around.
After getting it all back together, new clutch cable adjusted, etc, went for a nice little ride and was very pleased.
Not sure on the ATF but it indicated Dextron-Mercon. Would love to hear from Puppy Farm any input on thoughts on the ATF. Will say pleasantly surprised and makes sense.
Here is the Install for the Baker Street Performance Clutch which appears to be very similar to ours, they show it has 9 Plate but mine is 12, I know the newer ones are 9 Plate though on the BD.
https://www.bakerdrivetrain.com/clutches/SP9-instructions.pdf
Hope this helps.
kickstart
Well-Known Member
Ray, how often in those 30K miles have you lubed the cable.
BB, I very seldom have the bike in Neutral.
What V said.
Never thought about that!
:2thumbs:
scubaman15
Well-Known Member
Yes helps ...and I agree with you ,I'm going to try this on my next service along with checking clutch basket nut.. Great thread and great info!!:2thumbs:
Same here
I figure NOW, next ride, mine will snap, just because I answerwed that damn poll..!!!!
I figure NOW, next ride, mine will snap, just because I answerwed that damn poll..!!!!
I have one of those cable lubers. I do it at least monthly if not more. I also lube the lever which makes a big difference.