07 k9 power but no spark

Energy One

Mikeinjersey

Active Member
I'm finding it hard to follow where we are at in trying to diagnose your problem. Let's go back to the beginning and check a couple of things.
Make sure your battery is in good shape fully charged with clean and tight connections.
Do you have an EFI or Carbed 07 K9?
Are you positive it's an ignition issue and not a fuel issue?
Did you pull the plugs and ground them while cranking to see if you had spark?
Are your spark plug wires firmly installed on the coil?
Are the spark plugs and wires new or known good?
When you turn the key on does the EHC have any fault lights lit?
With the key on and run selected is the red light on the Ignition Module lit ?
If yes, crank the engine and see if it blinks and also the blue and yellow lights alternately flash?
Basically the system is not too complicated. The Ignition switch along with the run button allows the EHC to send power to the IGN Module. The ign module provides power to and also controls the coil. The coil provides the high voltage to the spark plugs. The crank sensor sends a signal to the Ignition module which triggers the coil to fire the front and rear cylinders at the proper time.
If your getting the Red light on the ignition module along with the alternating yellow and blue lights while cranking it would indicate your Ign module is getting power and the crank sensor is good and sending the required signal. Check the related wiring and connectors for visible damage . Give a shout back after you have a chance to check a few things.
 
Mikeinjersey. Everything happened because I changed the starter. It ran before the starter was changed. now I have Power, turns over, 12.6volts at battery, coil has power(also replaced the coil as I expected it to just the the issue), red light with the run button. And I see a yellow light that flashes but didn't notice a blue( I'll have to recheck).

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Mikeinjersey

Active Member
Mikeinjersey. Everything happened because I changed the starter. It ran before the starter was changed. now I have Power, turns over, 12.6volts at battery, coil has power(also replaced the coil as I expected it to just the the issue), red light with the run button. And I see a yellow light that flashes but didn't notice a blue( I'll have to recheck).

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Do you have an EFI or Carbed bike. The wiring is different and may make a difference in troubleshooting.
OK , make sure you are looking at the ignition module for the lights and not the EHC. The EHC has a yellow light as well as the ignition module.
The yellow light on the EHC is a fault light and the Ignition module yellow indicates the front cylinder firing signal.
It seems as though you may have left something disconnected or inadvertently broken a wire during the starter install or the coil installation.
Read the Electrical document from post #2 . It will help you get a more comfortable feel for how the system works. Wiring can be a bear to isolate.
 
Do you have an EFI or Carbed bike. The wiring is different and may make a difference in troubleshooting.
OK , make sure you are looking at the ignition module for the lights and not the EHC. The EHC has a yellow light as well as the ignition module.
The yellow light on the EHC is a fault light and the Ignition module yellow indicates the front cylinder firing signal.
It seems as though you may have left something disconnected or inadvertently broken a wire during the starter install or the coil installation.
Read the Electrical document from post #2 . It will help you get a more comfortable feel for how the system works. Wiring can be a bear to isolate.
Carb. I have been slowly starting into the wiring. I'm going to pick up a new battery this afternoon as the battery that I have isn't holding the charge enough. Slowly but surely I'll figure it out, but what a headache to a guy that doesn't understand wiring hahaha

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Mikeinjersey

Active Member
Another consideration assuming your not the original owner is that your wiring, EHC and Ignition module may not be Big Dog. The electrical document has several pictures which will help you figure out if your stock or not. Regardless they would be very similar and someone on this site would be familiar enough to help you through.
 

Rottweiler

Well-Known Member
Supporting Member
You can look at this post for some more info.
 

Mikeinjersey

Active Member
What is the appropriate connector to check crank sensor? Or how can I check it
Take a look at the Wire Diagram then go to the crank sensor (left front of crankcase) and physically follow the wires back to the Ignition module to look for damaged wiring or to get the readings in the diagnostics.
Keep in mind the crank sensor likes to be intermittent and good readings don't always mean good crank sensor. If your suspicious at all replace it and if it doesn't fix today's problem it's easy enough to carry with your tools just in case you get a failure on the road.
 

Sven

Well-Known Member
What is the appropriate connector to check crank sensor? Or how can I check it
With an ohm meter, I would remove the 8-9 connector [if we are saying both sensor wires] are pinned to that connector. I would then separate the crank sensor connector, have my one probe sitting stationary at the one wire's harness connector pin. I hold the other end of the HEI connector and with the other probe, I'd stab each pin till I find the meter hit infinity and I know there is no wire break at the harness wire for that sensor side. Same goes with the other side of the harness side wire and test for that wire break.

1. Jobber is the HEI - still up in the air about pointing to this as a no spark variable.
2. Connector to connector - I just eliminated a wire break or signal lost from sensor to black box. This is now eliminated.
3. Jobber is the sensor - I now remove the sensor, ohm reading are both probes in the wire ends. I take a hair drier and cook the sensor block and watch the meter. I take a good known crank sensor and match reading from cold to hot. This change in ohm readings may point to the sensor.
4. Jobber is the coil - which you 'turtled.'
5. Jobber is the cup - I believe this is the complete spark loop, or what did I forget? A loose cup bolt backing out and no spin at the cup. No open window to cut the magnetism at the sensor, momentary lost signal at connectors, HEI triggers the on/off [flip-flop] at the coil, saturated coil sends the spark to ground.

Signed,
Turtle Talks No One Listens
 
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