top end engine tap

john sachs

john sachs

Well-Known Member
mike wallace said:
Ok John so I took my 05 mastiff to new mechanic that said he had worked on several big dogs. He agreed with you that the valve guides are shoot and I need new rocker boxes and that the heads really need to be shaved down to perform the way they should. he said that big dog and TP rockers had an issue with geometry and that they do not ride or seat correctly. He said to repair correctly I am looking at 5-6k. Then he suggested just putting in another engine at about 7k so I would have a warranty. He said the last option was to sell and buy an HD, so that made me feel he may not want to do work. I was wondering if these numbers sound accurate, I love the ride and look of my bike.
Click to expand...
If you can find a shop to remove and re=install your heads, the repair done correctly, figuring on the high side, shouldn't be over $1200.00 with all new parts.
John
 
Marky-Marc

Marky-Marc

Well-Known Member
mike wallace said:
it ended up being bad valve guides and trashed engine, costly problem. I wound up just putting a new 124" polished S&S in.
Click to expand...
Wow! I'm with @john sachs....redoing the complete top end including your heads with new valves and guides, a cylinder bore AND new pistons and rings and gaskets shouldn't be over $1200......

Hope you got a little trade in $ for your engine-as long as you're happy.....

On that note, if you have it and want to sell it, let me know...may be interested....
 
mike wallace

mike wallace

Member
I sent back to S&S for manufactures rebuild and they told me motor was shot and not worth rebuilding as I drove until motor blew. This sounded like bullshit but it was S&S so I went with it. They only offered to ship new engine free for old engine. So I went with new engine and new clutch to handle added power, needless to say just about 10k when I got bike back. I took in the backend but have the bike back and running strong...
 
D

Dawggydawg

Member
Well Mike, I have an 05 Mastiff also and it had the TP rockers on when I bought it too. I had thought mine had some valve train noise but I didn't know any different. I also didn't know about the TP vs S&S. A year ago one thing lead to another and I ended up opening up the rockers. After snapping a couple pictures and sending them to Curtis (WSW), he said mine did indeed show the typical TP valve wear. I ended up buying a set of S&S boxes he had. I bought a 600 cam and triple valve springs. I felt in over my head so I found a highly recommended local guy. He ended up pulling the cylinders too. He confirmed that the valve guides and seats were shot. He bored the cylinders .010 over, installed new pistons and rings, new guides and seats, new valves, and all the parts I supplied him with. He found a couple wiring issues I had after my DOC's ESC install I did prior to tearing into the motor, changed all the oils, adjusted primary, and he tuned it. I ended up with a $2600 bill at his shop obviously not including the S&S boxes and other parts mentioned I provided. I thought it was a little steep but the bike fires right up, sounds completely different then it did and the power difference between then and now is off the chain. Sorry to hear your motor trashed. Guess I'm glad I tore mine down when I did. I lost almost all riding season but I'm really happy with the bike now. Good luck


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Th3InfamousI

Th3InfamousI

Administrator
Staff member
mike wallace said:
I sent back to S&S for manufactures rebuild and they told me motor was shot and not worth rebuilding as I drove until motor blew. This sounded like bullshit but it was S&S so I went with it. They only offered to ship new engine free for old engine. So I went with new engine and new clutch to handle added power, needless to say just about 10k when I got bike back. I took in the backend but have the bike back and running strong...
Click to expand...
They did take ya in the rear end IMO. That bottom end you could bolt up 124 Jugs, pistons and heads and it should be considerably less expensive than an entire new engine.

Sounds like ya just needed a new horse and they sold ya the whole damn farm. But hey it's fixed and you got gobs of power now...124 is a dream for me!

Sent from my 2PS64 using Tapatalk
 
chili08k9

chili08k9

I will buy the 1st round
Marky-Marc said:
Adjust your pushrods.
Click to expand...
Just my two cents, I had the same exact noise, turns out the valve guide was so worn the valve was moving almost half inch back and forth hitting the bridge in the center of the valves. be careful removing the guides. I cracked the fwd head and had to find a new diamond cut 117 head. no that wasnt hard to find at all lol...
 
chili08k9

chili08k9

I will buy the 1st round
mike wallace said:
On my 05 mastiff I recently starting hearing a tap from front top area of engine, sounds like load sewing machine when running. I had the rockerboxes check and only normal wear, pushrods check but appear to be fine, bleed down test was fine and bike runs great with 25-30psi of oil pressure. checked for exhaust leaks and head gasket and all seems good. Just looking for help or idea for what else I should check, running mobil 20-50 and no metal in oil when changed
Click to expand...
Worn Valve Guides.... I bet a beer.
 
mike wallace

mike wallace

Member
Ok now another issue with new engine installed. I also installed a new battery. When the start button is pushed to start the Amsco from 12 1/2 drop to four and will not kick the bike over. If I manually push on the electronic compression releases on top the bike turns over and starts. If you don't manually push on the bike just dead cranks and will not start . Does anyone have any idea why the answer drop from 12 1/2 to 4 when you push the start button? I have had the electronic compression releases check to their new from S&S and they work.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top