EFM Autoclutch
- Thread starter Milco
- Start date
JeffM
Active Member
Well i have spent 3 x 6 hour days on this so called auto clutch.
My conclusion.
1. This item is an auto clutch.
2. Your are able to put it in gear without clutch.
3. Works perfectly ............for a drag bike.
4. FOR SALE.
I got to a point i removed the rod completely, tied the lever back with a rubber band and rode the bike.
Sure it idles off from a stop, then slips (not sure if it is plates or EFM) grabs again at 2000 rpm, change to 2nd pulls away nicely then slips and grabs again at but at 2500 rpm.
When you rev the crap out of it, it works great, but for me it felt very wrong.
As instructed i machined the hub to half the height of the first fiber washer.
If i had machined it a bit more, maybe that would help, but it hooks up, so if the inner was stopping full engagement wouldn't it still slip?
I am well over it, i have missed 2 club rides, each cost me $100 in "fines", i have compulsory run in a month so back to stock i go.
I will sell it for $500 US if anyone is interested, comes complete with inner hub already machined.
Other wise it will be a paper weight. A very expensive paper weight.
My conclusion.
1. This item is an auto clutch.
2. Your are able to put it in gear without clutch.
3. Works perfectly ............for a drag bike.
4. FOR SALE.
I got to a point i removed the rod completely, tied the lever back with a rubber band and rode the bike.
Sure it idles off from a stop, then slips (not sure if it is plates or EFM) grabs again at 2000 rpm, change to 2nd pulls away nicely then slips and grabs again at but at 2500 rpm.
When you rev the crap out of it, it works great, but for me it felt very wrong.
As instructed i machined the hub to half the height of the first fiber washer.
If i had machined it a bit more, maybe that would help, but it hooks up, so if the inner was stopping full engagement wouldn't it still slip?
I am well over it, i have missed 2 club rides, each cost me $100 in "fines", i have compulsory run in a month so back to stock i go.
I will sell it for $500 US if anyone is interested, comes complete with inner hub already machined.
Other wise it will be a paper weight. A very expensive paper weight.
JeffM
Active Member
Hi Paul, fun living on the other side of the world with a BDM isn't it????????
My EFM fitted perfectly, i did remove the inner and outer to drill and tap the 6 holes, yes the chain is very close and mine did miss. As far as i can see from Taipo's pic"s and what is still in my bike (not for much longer)they are identical..
I have concluded that this item is perfect for a drag bike, but for an everyday ride it is not worth the $ even if it was 50c.
Just look at all the guy's that have had them and have gone back to stock.
Very expensive exercise, wish i had someone say DON'T DO IT prior to spending $900 AU.
TapioK
Well-Known Member
First holding, then slipping and then holding again doesn't make any sense. That sounds more like something going on with plates. Efm holds more and more when rpm rises.
You did check all the plates are in good order and perfectly straight? Ppl laugh at me but I did make sure all the frictions and steel are facing the same direction. I think steels are not necessary perfectly strait, but may be cupping just slightly. Hence the sharp edges towards tranny..
All the guys who I know haveing had problems have had open primary, the problem is basically dust from friction plates preventing the balls to move on ramps... your problem sounds really odd to me.
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You did check all the plates are in good order and perfectly straight? Ppl laugh at me but I did make sure all the frictions and steel are facing the same direction. I think steels are not necessary perfectly strait, but may be cupping just slightly. Hence the sharp edges towards tranny..
All the guys who I know haveing had problems have had open primary, the problem is basically dust from friction plates preventing the balls to move on ramps... your problem sounds really odd to me.
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JeffM
Active Member
Odd...........you think.
This is supposed to be a simple set up, with limited to 0 adjustment.
I have had my primary off 4 times in the past 3 days.
Checked all the plates for straightness, made sure all the steels are facing the same way, measured and re measured, changed the springs to )(, removed the rod, 4 x lots of oil at $15 a Quart.
Yes the friction fibre plates are getting down a bit, but that is from this bloody useless piece of shit.
It is fantastic as a drag clutch, no problem when i twist the wick, hooks up instantly with NO slip, but under 3000 rpm i can't even move from the lights. It is embarrassing.
Quality product..........not for this application.
Warranty........???? What good is that??
Garry is easy to talk to and will help you out.........fuck off.
I have not been able to ride my bike, other than around the block, sounds like i am in first gear all the way.
This is supposed to be a simple set up, with limited to 0 adjustment.
I have had my primary off 4 times in the past 3 days.
Checked all the plates for straightness, made sure all the steels are facing the same way, measured and re measured, changed the springs to )(, removed the rod, 4 x lots of oil at $15 a Quart.
Yes the friction fibre plates are getting down a bit, but that is from this bloody useless piece of shit.
It is fantastic as a drag clutch, no problem when i twist the wick, hooks up instantly with NO slip, but under 3000 rpm i can't even move from the lights. It is embarrassing.
Quality product..........not for this application.
Warranty........???? What good is that??
Garry is easy to talk to and will help you out.........fuck off.
I have not been able to ride my bike, other than around the block, sounds like i am in first gear all the way.
TapioK
Well-Known Member
If it needs 3000 rpm to move the pressure plate, the balls don't move in ramps. How did it work with only one spring? Also have you checked the balls and ramps, could there be something off. Faulty ball, something off with ramps?Odd...........you think.
This is supposed to be a simple set up, with limited to 0 adjustment.
I have had my primary off 4 times in the past 3 days.
Checked all the plates for straightness, made sure all the steels are facing the same way, measured and re measured, changed the springs to )(, removed the rod, 4 x lots of oil at $15 a Quart.
Yes the friction fibre plates are getting down a bit, but that is from this bloody useless piece of shit.
It is fantastic as a drag clutch, no problem when i twist the wick, hooks up instantly with NO slip, but under 3000 rpm i can't even move from the lights. It is embarrassing.
Quality product..........not for this application.
Warranty........???? What good is that??
Garry is easy to talk to and will help you out.........fuck off.
I have not been able to ride my bike, other than around the block, sounds like i am in first gear all the way.
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JeffM
Active Member
It moves at 1500 rpm, but as you accelerate it slips till it gets to 3000 rpm then everything seems to work.
If i do a drag race style take off it works very well. This tells me that the gizmo is not engaging enough at these lower rev's to fully lock up the clutch discs.
I understand that the higher i rev it the better it is, but it still should engage enough that i don't get slipage.
True???
If i do a drag race style take off it works very well. This tells me that the gizmo is not engaging enough at these lower rev's to fully lock up the clutch discs.
I understand that the higher i rev it the better it is, but it still should engage enough that i don't get slipage.
True???
JeffM
Active Member
TapioK
Well-Known Member
Yep. Like the springs are way too strong... Try one spring only
Or something is preventing the pressure plate from moving freely...
JeffM
Active Member
I should be able to go back to 1 spring this may help, i should also be able to set up a dial gauge and measure the clearance without pulling it all apart again.
If you remember i got a 1 paragraph instruction in broken English, there was no "check clearance".
All EFM need to do is send clear instructions, with pic's and a trouble shoot section and put that in the kit especially to those that do not live around the corner.
Well i am draining the primary once again, i am determined to make this work.
Tapio did you have no slippage, in either the plates or the EFM?
I got a reply from Garry below.
Thats probably the problem, you must have the .05-.06 clearance. We will get it figured out.
Thank you for the interest in EFM Auto Clutch Inc.
Garry Buzzelli
EFM Auto Clutch Inc.
3101 State Route 14
Rootstown, Oh 44272
330 947 1700
www.efmautoclutch.com
> On Nov 6, 2016, at 3:47 PM, jeff Malin <gobike2003@yahoo.com.au> wrote:
>
> Thanks for the reply.
> I am going back out to work today for a week so i won't get to pull it all apart till Tuesday week.
> No i did not measure the clearance.
> No i don't have a cover, i have to remove the primary cover. Wet clutch.
> No i don't have photos, but i will when i get back.
>
>
> --------------------------------------------
> On Mon, 7/11/16, EFM AUTO CLUTCH INC. <garry@efmautoclutch.com> wrote:
>
> Subject: Re: photos of clutch
> To: "jeff Malin" <gobike2003@yahoo.com.au>
> Received: Monday, 7 November, 2016, 12:39 AM
>
> Show me a
> picture of the clutch basket without the auto clutch
> installed. Did you check the clearance? This should be
> around .05-.06 thousandths. It seems like something is not
> letting it squeeze the clutch pack up. Can you start it up
> without the cover on it? Or does your primary have a cover
> around the clutch area only that you can start it up and
> watch the auto clutch go in and out as you rev it up in
> neutral?
> Another test you can try is take out
> all but 2 sets of springs and try it, leave 2 in opposite
> each other this will get rid of the spring pressure
> retracting it into neutral. There is something we are
> missing that it wont engaged. They work, I’m here to
> help. Send me a picture without the auto clutch on
> it.
>
>
If you remember i got a 1 paragraph instruction in broken English, there was no "check clearance".
All EFM need to do is send clear instructions, with pic's and a trouble shoot section and put that in the kit especially to those that do not live around the corner.
Well i am draining the primary once again, i am determined to make this work.
Tapio did you have no slippage, in either the plates or the EFM?
I got a reply from Garry below.
Thats probably the problem, you must have the .05-.06 clearance. We will get it figured out.
Thank you for the interest in EFM Auto Clutch Inc.
Garry Buzzelli
EFM Auto Clutch Inc.
3101 State Route 14
Rootstown, Oh 44272
330 947 1700
www.efmautoclutch.com
> On Nov 6, 2016, at 3:47 PM, jeff Malin <gobike2003@yahoo.com.au> wrote:
>
> Thanks for the reply.
> I am going back out to work today for a week so i won't get to pull it all apart till Tuesday week.
> No i did not measure the clearance.
> No i don't have a cover, i have to remove the primary cover. Wet clutch.
> No i don't have photos, but i will when i get back.
>
>
> --------------------------------------------
> On Mon, 7/11/16, EFM AUTO CLUTCH INC. <garry@efmautoclutch.com> wrote:
>
> Subject: Re: photos of clutch
> To: "jeff Malin" <gobike2003@yahoo.com.au>
> Received: Monday, 7 November, 2016, 12:39 AM
>
> Show me a
> picture of the clutch basket without the auto clutch
> installed. Did you check the clearance? This should be
> around .05-.06 thousandths. It seems like something is not
> letting it squeeze the clutch pack up. Can you start it up
> without the cover on it? Or does your primary have a cover
> around the clutch area only that you can start it up and
> watch the auto clutch go in and out as you rev it up in
> neutral?
> Another test you can try is take out
> all but 2 sets of springs and try it, leave 2 in opposite
> each other this will get rid of the spring pressure
> retracting it into neutral. There is something we are
> missing that it wont engaged. They work, I’m here to
> help. Send me a picture without the auto clutch on
> it.
>
>
TapioK
Well-Known Member
Nope, my did not slip. It started to grip around 1200- 1300 I suppose and was solid around 1500. I'd say just like you would do in manual clutch. With one thicker steel or less springs it started to grid btw 1000 and 1100. Bet too low for my taste.
Seems like Garry is thinking pretty much the same as I am.
My pressure plate gripped so hard to the first friction, that friction stuck in pressure plate, well pressure plate is aluminium and soft, but still. I tried my best to make it slip, couldn't. With over 1500 rpm clutch was totally solid unit.
TapioK
Well-Known Member
Hahhaaaa, it is kind of funny in a sad way: you have 2 guys with broken english trying to figure the problem.
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JeffM
Active Member
The never ending saga continues.
After 7 x 14 hour night shifts i have returned home to leaking taps, flat car battery, flat boat battery.
So i finally pulled the primary cover of the K9 ........again.
Did the measurement from the fully free to touching the friction plates, i am supposed to have .06" but i have .0885" with the EFM rubbing on the inner hub.
Get prompt reply from Garry he suggests swapping out steel plates with the ones provided in the kit.
WHAT bloody plates????????? WHAT bloody kit????
I got 6 cup springs and some foam packing and no instructions in the box ( I still have the box).
Looks like i am up shit creek again while i wait for a reply or locate some plates.
If anyone has the overall height of the inner hub so i can make up the spacers i machined off I will return to manual clutch and be able to make my club runs and not have to be someone "bitch " for the weekend.
After 7 x 14 hour night shifts i have returned home to leaking taps, flat car battery, flat boat battery.
So i finally pulled the primary cover of the K9 ........again.
Did the measurement from the fully free to touching the friction plates, i am supposed to have .06" but i have .0885" with the EFM rubbing on the inner hub.
Get prompt reply from Garry he suggests swapping out steel plates with the ones provided in the kit.
WHAT bloody plates????????? WHAT bloody kit????
I got 6 cup springs and some foam packing and no instructions in the box ( I still have the box).
Looks like i am up shit creek again while i wait for a reply or locate some plates.
If anyone has the overall height of the inner hub so i can make up the spacers i machined off I will return to manual clutch and be able to make my club runs and not have to be someone "bitch " for the weekend.
TapioK
Well-Known Member
Would you be a bit closer... I once happened to find a local motherload of steels and frictions... also I think I got a new set of steels and frictions with EFM. I have 3 thickness of steels. Then Baker sent me extra set by mistake, they didn't want them back
maybe because they fucked my order 3 times. So I also ended having 3 throw out bearings
Send me your address and I send you a few steels, it's not like I'm running out of those
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Last edited:
Nice find got about 3 clutches there 100k plus miles easy!Would you be a bit closer... I once happened to find a local motherload of steels and frictions... also I think Ingot a new set of steels and frictions with EFM. I have 3 thickness of steels.
Send me your address and I send you a few steels, it's not like I'm running out of those
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TapioK
Well-Known Member
Yeah! Someone had replaced plates because steels were blue, I suppose he didn't have sandpaper
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JeffM
Active Member
Bloody hell Tapio, you could go into business.
I see you are measuring the width of the hub after machining, remember the 4 tubes that were once attached to sit under the outer spring plate, it is the overall height of the original hub including the spacer tubes i need.
Wish i knew you had that lying around i would purchased the hub from you to save machining mine. Oh well.
I'll send you a PM with address, much appreciated. I have .088" and require .06 - .05" my existing steel thickness is .120" thick so that means i have to get a .06" thicker or some other combination. My head hurts.
I see you are measuring the width of the hub after machining, remember the 4 tubes that were once attached to sit under the outer spring plate, it is the overall height of the original hub including the spacer tubes i need.
Wish i knew you had that lying around i would purchased the hub from you to save machining mine. Oh well.
I'll send you a PM with address, much appreciated. I have .088" and require .06 - .05" my existing steel thickness is .120" thick so that means i have to get a .06" thicker or some other combination. My head hurts.