EFM Autoclutch

[JeffM]

Well i put 5 miles on it, to say i am disappointed would be an understatement.
To get it to move, i have to rev the fuck out of it, nothing under 3000 rpm, it continually slipped as you accelerated to race rev's but your still only doing 35 mph.
$1000 AU to destroy a set of clutch plates.
At 4000 rpm still slipping and the lever is still limp as a 90 yo 's dick.
What do i do now, i would have been better of going hydraulic.
Any thoughts?

 

[TapioK]

I got lost! You had the bike on neutral? Or how the heck you managed to keep the bike stationary clutch lever out, in gear at 3000rpm ? Now I vision you acrobat buddy hanging upside down from handlebar doing 70mp/h while adjusting the cable. Or hell of a burnout!


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[JeffM]

??????
I was ridding the bloody thing.
I DO NOT LIKE THIS AT ALL.

At the lights it sounded and felt like i was ready to do a 9 second pass at the Drags.

I did not bother to adjust the cable.

At 1500 you could feel it move, but it did not to 35 mph till i was revving the crap out of it.
Not my style.

 

[TapioK]

That really sounds weird.
Obviously the pressure plate does not push the pack tight enough. Take the whole rod off just to see if it holds then. If not, either the )) setup is pushing back too much (very unlikely), pack is not thick enough? don't remember how many plates I had, I'm kind of scared to remember I had 10 frictions on my setup. Is the pack flush with the hub? Or even a touch over? I wonder why I had extra plates to begin with, hmmm.

I think I got extra plates from EFM or I had 11 plates clutch to begin with. There was old 11 plates and upgraded 9 plates clutches on Dogs. I'm pretty sure I had originally 11 plates.

If the steels are now blue, take sandpaper and clean them shiny again...

There is also one totally non EFM related option, what oil you have in primary!?

Could it be that the EFM assembly doesn't sit flush? Friction on pressure plate movement?

Also if the rod is adjusted too long, could it prevent the pressure plate moving enough. That you will see when you turn rod open say 5 full turns!

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[TapioK]

Witch throw out bearing you have?

You have to have the "short stem" or there is no way the clutch holds at all.

Do you have the original push out bearing "holding part" on the left of the picture? I had an argument with Boo about it. I remember asking what the fuck I need this part for on the forum. He said I can't make the clutch to work without it, I said I can't make it work with it. I just took it away and didn't tell him clutch started to work well since the "ears" prevented setup to sit nicely in EFM.
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[JeffM]

I am using the short standard type in a wet clutch.
My EFM had a seat for the bearing, so i just removed from the std carrier and put it in the EFM.
I have just now opened up the rod adjuster and found the rod was almost 4 turns to get it to make contact with the bearing seat (the short one). So i screwed it back in to touch then wound it back out 1/2 a turn.
My lever is sitting halfway by itself.
My clutch pack is 1/2 a fiber plate higher than the hub as per the instructions.

 

[TapioK]

I am using the short standard type in a wet clutch.
My EFM had a seat for the bearing, so i just removed from the std carrier and put it in the EFM.
I have just now opened up the rod adjuster and found the rod was almost 4 turns to get it to make contact with the bearing seat (the short one). So i screwed it back in to touch then wound it back out 1/2 a turn.
My lever is sitting halfway by itself.
My clutch pack is 1/2 a fiber plate higher than the hub as per the instructions.

If the rod was that open, plates 1/2fiber high and Efm plate moved all the way to push the pack when you pushed it by hand, there shouldn't be anything to prevent clutch biting like crazy with Rpm.
I start to suspect your oil! Is it synthetic? Some have had slipping problems with synthetic oil.
There is a thread somewhere about it. I think Curtis told to wash the plates and let them soak in ATF oil.
I am running out of ideas here! The fucking this has only so many parts!


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[JeffM]

Sorry Tapio,
Oil is mineral.
Maybe as you say back out the rod 3-4 turns, then just take up the slack with the cable to just get movement of the lever.
It will be a week now till i get back to it as i have to work away for the next 6 days.
Thank you for your assistance and ideas, it has helped keep me sane.

I i can't get it to do what i think it should, it will go in the bin.

I have also emailed EFM, won't be holding out much hope for a return email from Garry, everyone says what a great guy and service is first class, i have not felt that. Or it could be just me.

 

[RCAdd1ct]

The way mine was.....he sent multiple thickness steels and you had to work your way to the correct stack height.

Sounds like you need to swap a couple thins for two thicker.

You want it to slowly roll forward off idle and if you let off the gas it does not creep.

If you are over 1500 and it is not locked you need a thicker clutch stack. If it creeps put thinner steels in.

 

[TapioK]

Sorry Tapio,
Oil is mineral.
Maybe as you say back out the rod 3-4 turns, then just take up the slack with the cable to just get movement of the lever.
It will be a week now till i get back to it as i have to work away for the next 6 days.
Thank you for your assistance and ideas, it has helped keep me sane.

I i can't get it to do what i think it should, it will go in the bin.

I have also emailed EFM, won't be holding out much hope for a return email from Garry, everyone says what a great guy and service is first class, i have not felt that. Or it could be just me.

I emailed him too, I didn't understand a word of his reply or advices went to local bike shop with the email. They didn't understand him either.
I do trust you will make the thing work! Don't give up! It is not a fucking brain surgery after all! Trial and error is my motto!


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[TapioK]

The way mine was.....he sent multiple thickness steels and you had to work your way to the correct stack height.

Sounds like you need to swap a couple thins for two thicker.

You want it to slowly roll forward off idle and if you let off the gas it does not creep.

If you are over 1500 and it is not locked you need a thicker clutch stack. If it creeps put thinner steels in.

Agree, though he said the stack is already above the hub... there is only so much you can go


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[Th3InfamousI]

Don't throw it in the trash send it to me! Ha

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[JeffM]

Back early, so after i catch up on some paper work i will give this "headache" another go.
I have received 2 emails from Garry, in one he says " I have found the photo's you sent, that is a hydraulic clutch"! In every email i stated it was a BDM 08 K9, in the next email he says it's a HD clutch..... WTF

He then explains to back the rod out 4 turns............ok this will eliminate the slippage, but i will have NO clutch lever to pull in to downshift which he says in all the advertising is what happen's.

If this does not work, Eric you may get a PM, and Curtis maybe getting an order to fill.

 

[TapioK]

You need to first get rid of slippage, that's clear. You say if you turn rod out enough for clutch not to slip, there is not adjustment enough in cable to make lever work on any rpm?

 

[TapioK]

That really sounds weird. Almost sounds like EFM does not sit deep enough. There should be plenty of leeway in movement. 4 turns out may well be right, like I said I don't remember how many I had on mine . And like I said I never figured what the hell Gary is talking about...

 

[TapioK]

Was walking down the street watching this nice ass bouncing in front of me and all the sudden I figured the only thing you haven't checked is ball and ramp assembly! Even more strange than ass bringing ball and ramp to my mind is that Marcy posted a video of it today! Maybe he saw bouncing ass too! Who knows


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[pauly]

Hey Jeff, how did you go with the auto clutch?
Since you have said that it can be done on bike without removing the clutch basket
I was going to install mine. I have fabricated a template so I can drill and tap the six holes square
as possible and than pulled my primary cover only to find out that the auto clutch I have bought does not fit! It was taken of a Big Dog with an open primary and it is different which I did not know.
Just wandering whether to buy one that fits or give up on the idea!
With yours did you put in an extra steel plate as I remember reading somewhere that you meant to put one in (maybe a thiner one)? That could take care of your slippage.Just a thought.

Paul.

 

[TapioK]

Hey Jeff, how did you go with the auto clutch?
Since you have said that it can be done on bike without removing the clutch basket
I was going to install mine. I have fabricated a template so I can drill and tap the six holes square
as possible and than pulled my primary cover only to find out that the auto clutch I have bought does not fit! It was taken of a Big Dog with an open primary and it is different which I did not know.
Just wandering whether to buy one that fits or give up on the idea!
With yours did you put in an extra steel plate as I remember reading somewhere that you meant to put one in (maybe a thiner one)? That could take care of your slippage.Just a thought.

Paul.

What is the difference? I thought the same unit fits dry and wet
Jeff said his pack is half a friction plate above the inner hub, that should be enough...


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[pauly]

This unit will not fit in because of the chain.
I have low kms bike and my friction plate is flush or slightly below the inner hub
I think - I haven't had a real good look.

Paul

 

[TapioK]

Why don't you give it a good look and take some pictures for us to see. I bet we'll see whats wrong, and Boo may well give some advice too