Well, there goes my toggle switch idea!
How I read it is that they're saying that the CR's allow the engine to get past that first compression stroke easier which would reduce the current draw of the starter although turning off the CR's would also reduce the current some. Maybe someone should measure how much current the CR's use?
I have been known to be wrong in the past, but I was damn close, I knew the throttle had something to do with the CR when starting, And that's exactly what is happening to Jim and I, the BAMM we talk about is breaking starters, its like one of the cylinders are under compression and the CR is not working when you hit start, it don't even crank when it does it, its like pulling the trigger on a gun, as soon as you hit start, BANG and the starter does not continue to spin, its done, run/start again to try and startYour start drinking again?
I think a toggle is the way to go
My manual says they draw 30A only until the plunger is pulled inHow I read it is that they're saying that the CR's allow the engine to get past that first compression stroke easier which would reduce the current draw of the starter although turning off the CR's would also reduce the current some. Maybe someone should measure how much current the CR's use?
Ideally, when you're cranking the engine, you don't want anything powered other than the starter and the ignition module. That's why the EHC turns off the headlight too.
Dennis
Where did you find that? I'm asking because the S&S manual tells you to use a 15A fuse when you wire the CR's into the starter wire. 30A seems pretty high but you never know...
I just read it out of my manual, in the electrical section in the back of the manual
If you're talking about the '07 service manual on page 8-20... they're talking about the starter drawing 30A, not the compression releases.
I guess the phrase "You can't build a lot of compression if the carb won't let the air in". Made it sound like open the throttle a little. I never hold it open when starting, just give it one twist and push the button.
The starter bangs the second it engages, but will start fine if I try it again.
Curtis rebuilt the starter three months ago and with 6000 miles you would think it should be alright. I can see where using power to engage the CR's when starting might reduce power to the starter. I don't know what to do.
This will sound dumb, but my wife recommended I roll my bike forward a few feet before hitting the start button. It worked 99% of the time. Start button crapped out after a while and I got a slam button from Curtis and Ive never had a jackshaft clunk.Get a slam button.
