BDM SOFT PULL CLUTCH?
- Thread starter BigMike
- Start date
I HAVE ONE, BUT HAD IT INSTALLED BY DEALER.....LOVE IT...WHAT A DIFFERANCE
BWG56
Guru
Replace cable ramps and clutch pack, so it would be both sides to answer your question. Do a search I showed pics of the soft pull kit on another thread (clutch nut or cable) bottom of first page. Sorry i don't know how to attach link.
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I have it in mine and I don't have no issue with the 9 plate clutch but if you are a "hotrodder" then it may be a different story.
If you just want to install the ramp and cam you can and then you won't have to pull the primary.
You'll like the clutch lever after this.
BWG56
Guru
I didn't put the 9 plate clutch in however I think its just on the edge with the stock clutch. The lever is definitley easier but to adjust the clutch, I found it very touchy to adjust, meaning it doesn't go into neutral when your at a stop every time but better than an out of adjusted clutch. If that makes sense.
As far as slippage, I usually don't go over 4500 RPM and haven't felt any slipping.
I would put the ramps in and then try it and if you can't get it adjusted to your liking then put in the clutch pack.
lee
Well-Known Member
yeah I agree with BWG. I can't find neutral when I'm stopped without a quick zip on the gas since I fitted mine but I find it easiest to get into neutral when the bike is still moving so no big deal. I probably would of used the clutch pack if I hadn't already put the bandit in there. Why they can't just sell the ball and ramp assembly I don't know.
bigdogtech01
Well-Known Member
You can purchase just the easy pull ball and ramp. It will work with your old style clutch pack and you are better off having the old style over the new as long as your pack is still good and in spec. I make a performance spring that will take place of your stock one if you think you will have slipping issues. It does add a little extra pull at the lever but is worth it if you are a hot rod guy. Gives you a good 30% gain over the stock spring. The newer 9 plate does have a tendency to slip more than your older style will.
reloaderbmg
OLD DOG
installed new ball ramp & nine plate pack, last month.
your right neutal is a pain till it warms up.
be shure to grease the long clutch rod inside the imput shaft!
your right neutal is a pain till it warms up.
be shure to grease the long clutch rod inside the imput shaft!
Sounds like just some minute adjustment.
Also the clutch rod should be lubed with anti-seize and not grease.
bigdogtech01
Well-Known Member
Grease NOT anti seize, along the whole length of it and at the end that rides against the throwout bearing. If you don't use grease, you will end up having squealing noises every time you pull your clutch lever in.Sounds like just some minute adjustment.
Also the clutch rod should be lubed with anti-seize and not grease.
And yes it may be just a minor adjustment, or could be a bad throwout bearing, clutch plates out of spec., and or pressure plate worn, or even a loose clutch hub nut.
Ha ha, we use to have one of the engineers on here that got laid off from the factory that told everyone to use anti-seize!!!
bigdogtech01
Well-Known Member
So you were joking about the Anti Seize??Ha ha, we use to have one of the engineers on here that got laid off from the factory that told everyone to use anti-seize!!!
lee
Well-Known Member
I wish I was told that when I bought mine.
No, will have to look back at some old posts but one of the BDM Field engineers that got laid off use to offer a lot of advice on here and he always told everyone to use anti-seize on the clutch rod not grease.
Just goes to show you that everyone has their own thoughts and we have to make the final determination ourselves. I've been using anti-seize on mine for the last couple years and have put a few miles on it without any issues.
:2thumbs:bigdogtech01
Well-Known Member
Hum I think I remember that story from when I was out in Kansas. This may be the same guy that told everyone at the factory to use only one drop of Red locktite on the Compensator and Clutch hub nut, and the guy that started making up his own clutch adjustment procedures and us dealers had to correct them all.No, will have to look back at some old posts but one of the BDM Field engineers that got laid off use to offer a lot of advice on here and he always told everyone to use anti-seize on the clutch rod not grease.
Just goes to show you that everyone has their own thoughts and we have to make the final determination ourselves. I've been using anti-seize on mine for the last couple years and have put a few miles on it without any issues.
Just sayin, there may be a reason he was laid off
Anti Seize is developed for use as an Anti seizing compound, just as it's name states. It does not give a lot of lubricating properties. It's purpose is to keep fasteners from forming corrosion between the two metals.
Such as using it on your front and rear axles, not for lubrication of the bearings (they are sealed) but to keep the axles from bonding to the bearing inner races and bearing spacer. You want a lubrication type substance on your clutch pushrod due to the fact that your mainshaft is turning and the pushrod is fixed inside this. Grease works best for this application.
Just my 2 cents.... I'm not a bigdog ex engineer so what do I know
Could be but you may remember that what was it... In 05 & 06 they were replacing a lot of clutch rods due to them being machined wrong or maybe to big. Lots of scoring on them so maybe the reason for the anti-seize.Hum I think I remember that story from when I was out in Kansas. This may be the same guy that told everyone at the factory to use only one drop of Red locktite on the Compensator and Clutch hub nut, and the guy that started making up his own clutch adjustment procedures and us dealers had to correct them all.
Just sayin, there may be a reason he was laid off
Anti Seize is developed for use as an Anti seizing compound, just as it's name states. It does not give a lot of lubricating properties. It's purpose is to keep fasteners from forming corrosion between the two metals.
Such as using it on your front and rear axles, not for lubrication of the bearings (they are sealed) but to keep the axles from bonding to the bearing inner races and bearing spacer. You want a lubrication type substance on your clutch pushrod due to the fact that your mainshaft is turning and the pushrod is fixed inside this. Grease works best for this application.
Just my 2 cents.... I'm not a bigdog ex engineer so what do I know
chopperguyz
Member
Question
Has anyone here purchased just the ball and ramp?
Lifestyles in Seattle said they would call big dog and find out but Bigdog is closed until the 5th. so won't know until then.
Thanks guys
Could you or someone please tell me where I can purchase just the ball and ramp set up for the easy pull. I've called two dealerships in my area and they both have told me that I have to purchase it as a set because thats how it's listed.
Has anyone here purchased just the ball and ramp?
Lifestyles in Seattle said they would call big dog and find out but Bigdog is closed until the 5th. so won't know until then.
Thanks guys
txchopperguy
Well-Known Member
Also, does adding this ball and ramp set-up reduce the dreaded clutch cable breakage?
Anyone have part numbers or a price?
Anyone have part numbers or a price?