X-wedge Cam Change Pics -- or for the "Wedge Curious"

chacha

Chaff Your EHC!!
Calendar Participant
So, some pics from the cam change for an S&S X-Wedge I did on the BBC GTX -- BDM Wolf would be the same. Start with one (or both!) of these;

1. Get a F'n X-Wedge manual from S&S
2. Order the EZ-Start 569 Cams - it comes with a copy of the right pages from the manual

The Fun bits are behind here;


But there is a lot to get to that point..though you probably don't have to remove the exhaust (I didn't). You will need to;

a. Remove the cam cover (4 bolts)
b. Remove the rocker covers (5 bolts each -- the rear cylinder may have two that line up with the frame, in which case you can cut down an allen to get to them

Once the rocker covers are off, move the front cylinder to TDC -- there is a mark for that on the pinion gear so this is easy. This is what they look like inside with "proper" automotive style rocker arms;


Then do the same to the rear. Remove the solid pushrods. While the parts are interchangeable, S&S recommends you keep the same parts in the same place when reassembling.

Now, remove the belt from the cam chest. This takes a few steps and a couple of tools are handy....


This is a modified socket to back the tension off of the belt for removal...you can get it from S&S or cut down one as well.


and it goes here....


The bolt holding the pinion pulley (bottom one in the pic) takes a TP45 (Torx Plus) to remove. DO NOT USE A STANDARD TORX 45!! An impact wrench is a big plus)


With that all done, some magnets to hold up the lifters will help the cams clear the case when you remove the six bolts holding it in....


and then a gear puller to remove the pinion gear....



The cam assembly out of the case



and the case you left behind...nice oil pump 'eh?


The Cam/pulley assembly is held together with one bolt and come out plenty easy...did need a gear puller to get one of them to separate though...



Some assembly lube on the bearings, seals and cams and it goes right back together with the new EZ Start Performance Cams....


Add a new seal, put some hi-temp grease on the pinion seal and she's ready to remount..


Placing the cams to the center and the set goes right back in the case. Drop the magnets, check the lifter rolls, and put the pinion gear back on. If the motor hasn't moved and you followed the procedures in the manual, then you're at front TDC. The manual then tells you to put the the belt back on (belt path is also on the inside cover of the cam cover...smart!). The specific procedure in in the instructions -- follow it to the letter and you don't have to worry about the belt and cams being in the wrong spot. The tensioner takes some force to back off, but when you get it right, the belt WILL slide right on



Then it's just a reverse reassembly!




You'll want a remap for the S&S EFI Controller, but this is really a pretty simple act as far as cam changes go!
 

V

Guru
What lift was in the bike "stock" and is there push rod adjustment or is this made up by the hydralic lifters ?

Thanks for the photos! b:cheers:

V
 

chacha

Chaff Your EHC!!
Calendar Participant
V wrote;

What lift was in the bike "stock" and is there push rod adjustment or is this made up by the hydralic lifters ?
The stock - when the motor was put together was a 548 cam without the EZ-Lift inserts. Their is no pushrod adjustment so the lifters take the slack. I think the rocker design minimizes any wear.

MARV asked;
did it start?
Oh yea...like in a split second. Before I put the rocker covers back on, I had pulled the plug wires and turned the motor over with the starter to check things. Turned over just like in the S&S videos -- sounded like it could have ran all day just with the starter. :cheers:
 
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