Well I had 2500 carefree miles - until today

Drdave427

Active Member
I have been really enjoying my Bulldog since April - about 2500 miles or so without a cough. Rode about 50 miles this morning but on the way back - it quit !! We slowed down to stop at an intersection - when I pulled up to the stop bar it died. No power on anything. Pushed it over to the side of the road and looked it over and couldn’t find any obvious problem. HAULED it home and looked it over again—— When I turn the key on - the OIL PRESSURE LIGHT and the NEUTRAL LIGHT blink very briefly — And I mean BLINK BRIEFLY - that’s as far as got - No loose connections , good battery and ZERO problems until today. I haven’t got the volt meter out yet — I‘m hoping some of you guys could suggest me to a starting point -your knowledge on this stuff amazes me ! It has a stock EHC - original one I think -2005 model. I’m guessing it may be a simple as a key switch ??
Thanks
DK
 

Th3InfamousI

Administrator
Staff member
IF it's the keyswitch you can try and wiggle it in the on position and see if any of the symptoms change. Doesn't rule it out completely but if that is the original keyswitch the 05 would have 4 Tumbler and those do wear more easily than the newer style 5 tumblers.

if that doesn't solve it I wouldn't blame the EHC yet. Might just have a short somewhere, next easiest thing to check is the headlight plug, especially if you havent replaced it.

So you got 2500 carefree miles since you bought it?
 
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41bigdawg

Let the Big Dawg eat !
Supporting Member
You can rule out the key switch, just install a jumper and see if it will start. Thats an easy place to start, check the battery voltage, 12.8v or better, look for the lights on the EHC, that might point you in the right direction.
 

Drdave427

Active Member
IF it's the keyswitch you can try and wiggle it in the on position and see if any of the symptoms change. Doesn't rule it out completely but if that is the original keyswitch the 05 would have 4 Tumbler and those do wear more easily than the newer style 5 tumblers.

if that doesn't solve it I wouldn't blame the EHC yet. Might just have a short somewhere, next easiest thing to check is the headlight plug, especially if you havent replaced it.

So you got 2500 carefree miles since you bought it?
YES !!! Actually have done nothing to it other than oil change and a lot of polishing - some tinkering but nothing major - I’ve stocked up on parts from you I want to replace this winter but haven’t touched anything on it other than riding for the last 4 weeks.
I just looked at it — started with the battery. It showed only 10 volts ???? Then I turn the key on- it drops to 3 volts . I think I have a battery gone south. I put it on an electronic charger on it (unhooked from bike) and it shows full , dead cell , 10 volts alternatively. Sounds like battery to me but I’ll have to get one tomorrow and try it - THANKS and I’ll see what happens
 

Mikeinjersey

Well-Known Member
Dave even though you feel the battery is good that is the first check you should make. If it's not at least 12.8 at rest all bets are off and you need to find out why. First and foremost these bike require the battery to be in top shape. If it's good start troubleshooting.
 

Mikeinjersey

Well-Known Member
YES !!! Actually have done nothing to it other than oil change and a lot of polishing - some tinkering but nothing major - I’ve stocked up on parts from you I want to replace this winter but haven’t touched anything on it other than riding for the last 4 weeks.
I just looked at it — started with the battery. It showed only 10 volts ???? Then I turn the key on- it drops to 3 volts . I think I have a battery gone south. I put it on an electronic charger on it (unhooked from bike) and it shows full , dead cell , 10 volts alternatively. Sounds like battery to me but I’ll have to get one tomorrow and try it - THANKS and I’ll see what happens
Just read your last post. You obviously found the problem. After you install the new battery make sure it's charging when the bike is running. Should be High 13s but not over 14.5 .
 

Drdave427

Active Member
Sounds like your battery shorted out. Hopefully if didn't take the EHC with it
I hope so too — thanks.
I’ve never had a battery on anything that I can remember that did not show signs of trouble - start slow or keep going dead or something to give you a clue that it was going bad. I thought the digital gauge lights blinking once when I turned the key on was odd - but I’m learning !
When a battery goes out like that - it can kill the EHC ??? I’m still puzzled why it didn’t run until I turned it off ???
 

Mastiff Rider64

Well-Known Member
Supporting Member
Even if the battery just died, wouldn't the stator and voltage regulator keep the bike running til it was cut off? Kinda like a car does? Yes the battery is definitely bad now, but what happened to cause it to die while riding? You may want to check the charging system. I've had to jump my mastiff off and go riding and stop somewhere cut the bike off and jump it off again like during a poker run. But the bike while running should get enough voltage, current or whatever it needs from the stator to keep a bike running. Now granted my Mastiff is carb'd so if the Bulldog is EFI and has more electronics on it then yes maybe the stock charging system can't keep up. Maybe switch to a 40 amp system if that's the case.
 

Jersey Big Mike

100K mile club
Even if the battery just died, wouldn't the stator and voltage regulator keep the bike running til it was cut off? Kinda like a car does? Yes the battery is definitely bad now, but what happened to cause it to die while riding? You may want to check the charging system. I've had to jump my mastiff off and go riding and stop somewhere cut the bike off and jump it off again like during a poker run. But the bike while running should get enough voltage, current or whatever it needs from the stator to keep a bike running. Now granted my Mastiff is carb'd so if the Bulldog is EFI and has more electronics on it then yes maybe the stock charging system can't keep up. Maybe switch to a 40 amp system if that's the case.
If the battery develops a serious internal short, it can suck enough power away from the system so that at idle when most charging systems are not putting out very much the bike can stall. If there is a short in the battery and it was kept running by the charging system (stator/vr combo) it might not have been charging the battery, ergo once it stopped it was done.
Definetely check the charging system. In this case I'd go so far as to disconnect the VR to battery connection when I started it, just in case it was overvoltage that killed battery. No sense risking another battery or the ehc.
 

1 B.M.F.

Well-Known Member
Just curious if you unplug your headlight will it start? And if it’s running and you unplug your headlight will it kill the engine? If I remember correctly my headlight burned out on low beam but it still ran.
 

Drdave427

Active Member
I wasn’t able to test the headlight yesterday because it had no power anywhere. This morning I replaced the battery - it started right up - I had a meter at the battery - it was 12.3 volts just sitting and went to 13.6 while running. Everything works now EXCEPT high beam is out . When I push the high beam button the blue indicator light comes on the Dakota but no headlight — I guess I’ll take it apart and see what’s going on.
Yesterday there was extra traffic everywhere because of a wreck on the interstate - I remember switching my high beam on because of all the traffic and it was on until it died - Could that headlight connector have caused all my battery troubles yesterday ???
Guys I really appreciate all your help and advice !!!! THANKS
 

Mikeinjersey

Well-Known Member
I wasn’t able to test the headlight yesterday because it had no power anywhere. This morning I replaced the battery - it started right up - I had a meter at the battery - it was 12.3 volts just sitting and went to 13.6 while running. Everything works now EXCEPT high beam is out . When I push the high beam button the blue indicator light comes on the Dakota but no headlight — I guess I’ll take it apart and see what’s going on.
Yesterday there was extra traffic everywhere because of a wreck on the interstate - I remember switching my high beam on because of all the traffic and it was on until it died - Could that headlight connector have caused all my battery troubles yesterday ???
Guys I really appreciate all your help and advice !!!! THANKS
Good News your running again! Your headlight question is a Chicken or the Egg. You need to check the headlight out it's probably just the bulb. Your battery reading is very low for a new battery. You should put it on the charger. Your charging voltage is on the low side as well. Maybe your meter is out of calibration.
 

Drdave427

Active Member
Good News your running again! Your headlight question is a Chicken or the Egg. You need to check the headlight out it's probably just the bulb. Your battery reading is very low for a new battery. You should put it on the charger. Your charging voltage is on the low side as well. Maybe your meter is out of calibration.
AND THE REST OF THE STORY ——————
I said earlier my high beam was out after I installed the new battery so I looked into that and found the dreaded melted plastic light connector - I guess I got the egg - I ordered one of those Sunpie lights to go back in it. Mike the battery was straight off the shelf and straight on the bike - it probably does need charging - I’ll let it charge while I’m waiting on my new light from Amazon and Ceramic plug.
I only ran it about 45 seconds after I installed the battery - I noticed high beam didn’t work so I shut it down. I hope I didn’t fry anything else !!!
Thanks for the advice -B9D3C243-E17F-4921-80D2-287D0943FABA.jpeg05C1EF87-1E40-48BE-86F8-E5B9C76D25E9.jpeg
 
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Mikeinjersey

Well-Known Member
DrDave, I had to laugh at your comment " I guess I got the egg" :D My guess is your OK. Th3Infamous had it cold. I don't know which bikes were included on that recall and I think it was years ago anyway. Th3Infamous may have the details on that. I don't have the original headlight but mine warns against using a higher wattage lamp because of the excess heat. Try to find out the specs on your headlight so you don't get a repeat performance.
 

Drdave427

Active Member
Just read your last post. You obviously found the problem. After you install the new battery make sure it's charging when the bike is running. Should be High 13s but not over 14.5 .
Well I just checked the voltage with a different more precise meter - I got 13.3 static (not running , switch off) and I revved it up just a little and it went to 15.24 and I turned it back off. Sounds like my regulator is bad too - maybe the cause of all the troubles ??? I had the fried headlight connector unhooked when I did this last voltage test - 15 volts sounds too high ???
I appreciate everyone’s patience with my questions -
 

Drdave427

Active Member
IF it's the keyswitch you can try and wiggle it in the on position and see if any of the symptoms change. Doesn't rule it out completely but if that is the original keyswitch the 05 would have 4 Tumbler and those do wear more easily than the newer style 5 tumblers.

if that doesn't solve it I wouldn't blame the EHC yet. Might just have a short somewhere, next easiest thing to check is the headlight plug, especially if you havent replaced it.

So you got 2500 carefree miles since you bought it?
EXACTLY right - Headlight plug melted — I may have more issues
 

Jersey Big Mike

100K mile club
Well I just checked the voltage with a different more precise meter - I got 13.3 static (not running , switch off) and I revved it up just a little and it went to 15.24 and I turned it back off. Sounds like my regulator is bad too - maybe the cause of all the troubles ??? I had the fried headlight connector unhooked when I did this last voltage test - 15 volts sounds too high ???
I appreciate everyone’s patience with my questions -
I wouldn't trust that meter -- 13.3 is high for a battery - by itself a full charge should be 12.8, that meter appears to be reading at least 1/2v higher than it should. Chemistry dictates the voltage with key off and full charge -- never seen a 12v battery above 12.8v.
14.4 is target normally, 14.8 is upper limit for a running system as a rule (15v is max for a 12v charging system)

Always remember -- meters scopes and oter test equipment do go out of calibration over time and need to be periodically checked against a known good source.
 
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