Well I had 2500 carefree miles - until today

Drdave427

Member
Supporting Member
Yes , it's mounted so I have easy access if I want to check if the bike is charging. Usually at a stop light. Did the VR test bad or did you decide to go for the complete system?
Ordered the whole kit - The VR is bad but the stator was ok. Eric gave me some direction on what to do -
I really appreciate your advice and pointing out the voltage “stick” to me - its a great device ! I’ll NEVER be wondering what’s going on with the charging system again — Just look at the screen !! Thanks Mike —
 
Yes — got a battery first - just so I could tell what was going on with the charging system.
If I understand - the VR went bad , fried the headlight connector and battery pretty quickly with too much voltage
Just a possible suggestion on your repair. If after you install the VR all seems well you may want to hold off on replacing the stator until the off season. Its not as easy as the VR to replace and if your not using the bike you can take your time.
 

Drdave427

Member
Supporting Member
Just a possible suggestion on your repair. If after you install the VR all seems well you may want to hold off on replacing the stator until the off season. Its not as easy as the VR to replace and if your not using the bike you can take your time.
That is my plan Mike - hopefully — I have some upgrades/maintenance I was going to do this winter - stator wasn’t in the original plan but it is now !
Thanks again
 

Jersey Big Mike

Well-Known Member

bigkelk9

Well-Known Member
Lifetime Supporting Member
L
Right. Look at a 32a stator. Half the sweep north is 16, and half the sweep south is 16 = 32a. There are 3 parts to the charging system; batt/vr/stator. Stator makes its own E up each wire and that is 16v say is the constant. The vr is the volt changer from AC to DC and regulates the 14v values, where the 1.6v is sent to ground.
Whereas the vr is still in the wiring loop, but 16v passes over/thru the wires and all 16v enter the battery, and that surface 16 heads for the bulbs and blows them out due to so much resistance built into the bulb... filament being a mini fuse and a light source, so a new vr is needed. Then check voltage stability.

Some swap all of it out even with a good stator blowing out bulbs. Again, your bike, your call, but throwing parts at is is one way, and diagnosing individual parts is another. Or said another way, you don't take a suppository for a headache, and you don't take aspirin for constipation. It's either or in other words.

Edit:
Yeah, the AC could backwash and heat the stator on the reverse. But that might take awhile to burn out the stator if there is the 'for every action'...etc. Only your fluke knows for sure if the stator is still serviceable.
looking into replacing mine... searching high and low and it’s kicking my butt to see which one fits. I do want an upgrade to the 32, ay idea where to get one?
 

Butch Cassidy

Active Member
Supporting Member
It's Lowes take it back and try another one to see if you get the same readings. Maybe check the 2 meters you have on your car battery to see if you have a difference. I use an LCD voltage indicator from Battery Tender that plugs into the quick disconnect from the charger. It was around $15 . I got it to monitor my battery while on the road so I can get back to the barn if the circuit breaker pops for some reason or the charging system goes south. I highly recommend it for after you get your problem fixed . It gives peace of mind to know all is well in battery land.
I have one of those too. Having it sure makes me feel more prepared
 
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