Timing light

Gordito

New Member
Hey guys!!! I’m trying to time my bike after putting in the hi-4n ignition module. I bought a timing light off Amazon for like $25 because I only plan on using it once… I can’t get it to work. The inductance loop barely even fits over my spark plug wire. Can anyone point me to a good timing light? Or tell me what I might be doing wrong? It seems very simple so I doubt I’m screwing it up. Thanks in advance
 

Jersey Big Mike

100K mile club
Have you done the static timing already -- my last bike (using a twintec module not a hi-4n) I simply did the static timing and run with that -- ran great for years, (revtech 100cu)
 

Rottweiler

Well-Known Member
Supporting Member
Have you done the static timing already -- my last bike (using a twintec module not a hi-4n) I simply did the static timing and run with that -- ran great for years, (revtech 100cu)
I agree. I tried to set timing with a light, never had luck with them. Make sure you have it on TDC when installing it. I just made small tweaks until no pinging. When I used the light it pinged.
 

john sachs

Well-Known Member
There's a lot more to consider, when using a timing light. Advance curves, total advance, engine rpm, and an accurate hook up,( for reading tdc, static timing, and total advance ). Also be aware of any vacuum devices (VOES), that will affect the advance curve.
 

Gordito

New Member
I agree. I tried to set timing with a light, never had luck with them. Make sure you have it on TDC when installing it. I just made small tweaks until no pinging. When I used the light it pinged.
Thanks man I probably will just do that. I called S&S and they recommended 35 degrees before TDC. But you timed yours at actual TDC and that worked for you?
 

Sven

Well-Known Member
Save your money. Go static as per instructions short of using a light. Stock HD ignition, I ran it static. Hit the start button and it lit off like a computer bike. Never holed a piston or would run backasswords, saying, OH SHIT! Because of this design of cranking it over with the H, you'll know how it starts when it does. You've got either degrees to fine out. The way mine started was thinking it was about to run backwards but man it lit off so fast with one stroke seems. More chasing the 10° for start [if applies].

Love to get into arguments about the VOES. Factory Manual called it a switch, because I call this the mother of the first computer bike. The book more was not going to explain it was a sensor really. Was easier to call it a switch, like in the vid. Notice how it is explained like a switch.

But in the FM's abstract it read: 10° 40° 55°. Ass yourself, how can a switch go from start, then to mid, then full advance? The first fool that did that trick, there was no extra HP disabling the "Sensor." Watt it did was default to 10° to start and jumped to 55° after it reached a certain rpm. I'm getting the abstract out of the 1984 addition having the XR1000, then a few years back that had no VOES. Thus the serendipity of learning how a computer bike works. Chasing down other websites with computer ignition systems.

Slow ass I am, I attached an ohm meter to the VOESensor wires, ran a vacuum tool at it and watched the analog run up and down of its numbers thru a digital ohmmeter.. WATThell? Show me analog, I'll show you math converting to 1's and 0's of a formula to use the next advance curve via binary, or said another way: 01011010101 or analog. If a hose is off, wire down, it goes to a digit, or no input. Said another way it goes: 00000000 or digital. Analog means many, digital means one or a digit over and over again.

Remove either hose or one wire sets it in: backup/fail safe/redundant/limp mode/Huston we have a problem/check engine light. So the fail safe would go directly to 55°. My guess is if at 40° it would be too retarded and overheat.

Camp Switch? Any takers how fast is a processor computes to know when to switch to the next curve taking in the analog of rpms and/or vacuum? Camp Sensor has more of a step by step reading of the abstract in a book and sucking on that, cough, sensor abstract. Meaning, you can take this example and apply it... to WHY the dash throws a code.

The basic walkaway is:
Many is analog
Digit is one

Signed,
NOLTT (no one likes tarmac touching)


I have skin in the game of understeerstanding a code LOL

 

Jersey Big Mike

100K mile club
Save your money. Go static as per instructions short of using a light. Stock HD ignition, I ran it static. Hit the start button and it lit off like a computer bike. Never holed a piston or would run backasswords, saying, OH SHIT! Because of this design of cranking it over with the H, you'll know how it starts when it does. You've got either degrees to fine out. The way mine started was thinking it was about to run backwards but man it lit off so fast with one stroke seems. More chasing the 10° for start [if applies].

Love to get into arguments about the VOES. Factory Manual called it a switch, because I call this the mother of the first computer bike. The book more was not going to explain it was a sensor really. Was easier to call it a switch, like in the vid. Notice how it is explained like a switch.

But in the FM's abstract it read: 10° 40° 55°. Ass yourself, how can a switch go from start, then to mid, then full advance? The first fool that did that trick, there was no extra HP disabling the "Sensor." Watt it did was default to 10° to start and jumped to 55° after it reached a certain rpm. I'm getting the abstract out of the 1984 addition having the XR1000, then a few years back that had no VOES. Thus the serendipity of learning how a computer bike works. Chasing down other websites with computer ignition systems.

Slow ass I am, I attached an ohm meter to the VOESensor wires, ran a vacuum tool at it and watched the analog run up and down of its numbers thru a digital ohmmeter.. WATThell? Show me analog, I'll show you math converting to 1's and 0's of a formula to use the next advance curve via binary, or said another way: 01011010101 or analog. If a hose is off, wire down, it goes to a digit, or no input. Said another way it goes: 00000000 or digital. Analog means many, digital means one or a digit over and over again.

Remove either hose or one wire sets it in: backup/fail safe/redundant/limp mode/Huston we have a problem/check engine light. So the fail safe would go directly to 55°. My guess is if at 40° it would be too retarded and overheat.

Camp Switch? Any takers how fast is a processor computes to know when to switch to the next curve taking in the analog of rpms and/or vacuum? Camp Sensor has more of a step by step reading of the abstract in a book and sucking on that, cough, sensor abstract. Meaning, you can take this example and apply it... to WHY the dash throws a code.

The basic walkaway is:
Many is analog
Digit is one

Signed,
NOLTT (no one likes tarmac touching)


I have skin in the game of understeerstanding a code LOL

The problem here with your logic of

Analog is Many
Digital is one

This assumes a single bit. Just because Iuse a microcontroller or cpu for processing does not forgoe the use of analog inputs. Most microcontrollers have ADC's in them ANalog to digital converts that will take that 12v (usually using a voltage divider to protect controller) and appply it to a single pin, the microcontroller will than equate that 0-12v value to typically anywhere before 256 to 1024 seperate values.

As to the FM abstract, it would be a multi-pisition switch.
Since a VOES (Vacuum Operated Electronic Switch) is a diaphram atached to a spring - there is a contact on the diaphram
In default (no vacuum) it is off, pull it so far and it hits a contact, pull it further, hits another contact etc. Very easy to make a multi-position switch that way.
 

Sven

Well-Known Member
First of all, key on. That's 12v into a 555 timer or IC (integrated chip ) and coverts 12v to 19v input down to 5v. I can't explain how simple a basic sensor's input is.

The binary can calc voltage input of the linear magnetic push up the wire, save it into a capacitor. That's the saved input converted to a binary number. How I remember is the more spin up the more voltage made. Have to follow natures chess moves to build a sensor, not a vacuum on a spring.

So statically speaking, using the rotor's most slowest move can push molecules or the world we live in is magnetic. It sends volts, meaning. Christmas ornament lights like speeds is next.

We are locked into this 60Hz or handcuffed kind of timing: like the heart is magnetically ticked. So next are the moves of the 555 timer.

Those moves (like the heart) are shown via a toilet's function. The tank is the condenser. It receives the same volume over and over so call this the digit. Call this 'Threshold.' The handle is more like the speed timer. Call this the 'Trigger.' This empties the threshold and waits for the next input. Water goes down the drain, but say it more goes to ground. This is called 'Discharge.' The cycle repeats at any speed you like if wired right.

So magnetically speaking, the calculations are this side of the speed of light. With the 3 moves of the 555. You can throw tone wheels on each wheel, capture which wheel slowed up (wheelie), sped up (spun out) and intervene. So when that open window slows as if moving the rotor a half a hair split that half of hair (infinity) The input showed its teeth linearly either way.

I am showing no matter how you say it, it bleeds analog OR digital to understand how simple a code happens.

So the VOES has to sit electronically at 14.7 psi or 0 pressure on the old style wafer was it called? Now thru evolution they use silicone, no spring. Still sits at 1 amt. The vac suck is linear, i.e., 012345676543210 is the input inside. I don't see a switch.

Why I don't see a switch is because if the 3 pull offs of the VOES happens, the 40° is lost. It is now in code or follows the crank's RPM's. To move out of 10° for startup and mid, then reaches an rpm speed that hits the 55° from mid to WOT.

WATT would you use in the calc if the VOES is disabled? Your AN capped I would assume means the a/N Method of handling mid to heavy load? Say if we used components for the computer bike world, losing the IAP (intake air pressure sensor/VOES). But we are talking a carb and that is a natural input of vac so gas is no problem, advance is. Thus a sensor with analog (linear) input.

The abstract of the mother of the sensor uses vac demand. That's primitive tech describing the spring use. No mention where 40° went when disabled. But to know how basic it shows a sensor is many, meaning, 10-40-55°. Disabled input is the digit, meaning 10-55° or the constant 55, no 40.

Still went linear to know where to land via vacuum. Still knows where to land via rpm speed. Wire off, where is the spring in this whole argument. Walks as it talks sensor.


Signed,
NOLTT
 
Last edited:

Sven

Well-Known Member
JBMike; The problem here with your logic of

Analog is Many
Digital is one
Mike, kind of see how no matter how cloudy the logic sounds, I can't manipulate the handcuffing of the absolute way it functions. That is why I call it Mother Sensor. Explains it all:

Many = 40-55
One = 55

Thanks for participating.

Signed,
NOLTT (no one lookup truth tables)
 
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