Thunder max 309-340 exam

Ribert R

Ribert R

Member
Mr. Wright said:
Personally, I think your cheapest way out would be to strip all the wiring out, get a super G carb, and rewire it with a Bad Lands wire harness. You already have the Harley controls.
Knothead isn't far from you. Either he or I can do it for you, if need be.
Click to expand...
I’ll do what you said and get the badlands wiring harness I already have the super G. I’ll try and get Curtis on the horn tomorrow and go from there. I’ll holler back at y’all . Thanks a bunch, if ever ya need anything just holler and I’ll help if I can. Will be having and EFI SYSTEM UP FOR GRAPS PRETTY SOON, lol


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Jwooky

Jwooky

Well-Known Member
Not a lot making sense here. How do you have “spark” when not cranking.

If it’s truly an EFI, you can simply apply 12V to the battery feed and ignition terminal and it will run. No need to convert it. Depending on the brand (S&S was OEM) there should be diagnostic software that goes with it.

Post a pic of the module.
 
Ribert R

Ribert R

Member
It’s has fire up to the plugs but when I hit the start button it was going off. But I took alarm off ( digital guard dog) and I installed a key switch and it has fire to the plugs but with a test light stuck inside the plug wire it has fire but it doesn’t blink? Is that right? Isn’t it suppose to blink with the timing


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Ribert R

Ribert R

Member
Hey mickmorris, knothead , human and the other guys, ok we know it’s a 2003 Mastiff. So I took that Digital guard dawg Keyless entry) off the bike and put a key switch on it . Same color wires. It has fire to the plugs now but it doesn’t blink with the timing , when I hit the start button , it stays on. But going to have to buy a hotter battery. Is the test light suppose to blink when I hit start button or am I wrong


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Mickmorris

Mickmorris

Well Known Member
Supporting Member
Ribert R said:
Hey mickmorris, knothead , human and the other guys, ok we know it’s a 2003 Mastiff. So I took that Digital guard dawg Keyless entry) off the bike and put a key switch on it . Same color wires. It has fire to the plugs now but it doesn’t blink with the timing , when I hit the start button , it stays on. But going to have to buy a hotter battery. Is the test light suppose to blink when I hit start button or am I wrong


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Yes it should blink if you have the boot end on the plug and the rod end in the wire boot. You can also just pull the plug and check it on a head bolt to visually see the spark. Glad to hear you made some progress!!
:cheers:
 
Ribert R

Ribert R

Member
Mickmorris said:
Yes it should blink if you have the boot end on the plug and the rod end in the wire boot. You can also just pull the plug and check it on a head bolt to visually see the spark. Glad to hear you made some progress!!
:cheers:
Click to expand...
I wanted the security but oh well. But my truck died now so I have to fix her but I need to get a better battery for the bike , I ‘m sure I will have more for you, lol. But thanks for all the help


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Ribert R

Ribert R

Member
Jwooky said:
Not a lot making sense here. How do you have “spark” when not cranking.

If it’s truly an EFI, you can simply apply 12V to the battery feed and ignition terminal and it will run. No need to convert it. Depending on the brand (S&S was OEM) there should be diagnostic software that goes with it.

Post a pic of the module.
Click to expand...

And it’s fuel injected

And when the key is on There is power to the plugs but when I’m pressing the start button the power is no longer there


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Ribert R

Ribert R

Member
Jwooky said:
Not a lot making sense here. How do you have “spark” when not cranking.

If it’s truly an EFI, you can simply apply 12V to the battery feed and ignition terminal and it will run. No need to convert it. Depending on the brand (S&S was OEM) there should be diagnostic software that goes with it.

Post a pic of the module.
Click to expand...
There is power to the plugs when I turn the key to on and not when I hit the starter


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Jwooky

Jwooky

Well-Known Member
Ok, most certainly is EFI. I see a data port connection so the very first thing I would do is contact Thunderheart to see about diagnostic software.

I still don’t understand the comment “power to the plugs”. Are you saying you are measuring 12V at the plug wires? That woul not make sense. There should only be a high voltage pulse at the plug while cranking and running
 
Ribert R

Ribert R

Member
With the key in the on position there is power to the coil and it comes out the coil to the plug wires but when I hit the starter button the power is no more


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Snuffy

Snuffy

Active Member
Supporting Member
Ribert R said:
With the key in the on position there is power to the coil and it comes out the coil to the plug wires but when I hit the starter button the power is no more


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Click to expand...
You shouldn’t have power to the plugs without starting. I would encourage you to educate yourself on the basics of the bike before trying to fix it.
 
Ribert R

Ribert R

Member
Listen too me. I have power when I cut the key to the on position but it has no power when I hit start button. When I let off the starter button the power comes back


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