Stupid question I hope

[Smoke67]

I got to feeling better after my recent date with Ms. Asphalt and figured I'd do a few things to the dog. I changed to a 32 tooth pulley and changed the drive belt while I was at it. Adjusted the clutch as stated in the manual. Got a chance to ride this afternoon. Everything seemed fine til I got out of the driveway. The clutch was slipping when throttled. I came back to my shop and started digging. Readjusted everything and it didn't help. I then pulled the pipes and actuator cover. Checked everything, no issues that I could tell. Reinstalled the rod and set to specs. Seat the rod then back off 1/4 turn. Then adjusted the cable with a 1/16 play. The clutch would not engage. The clutch leaver could not be pulled. Long story short. I had it in neutral. Backed everything off, put it in 1st and readjusted everything. Now it seems right but I have to get new exhaust flange gaskets to install the pipes. I haven't ridden it yet. Was being in neutral my issue?

 

[Jwooky]

No should not matter what gear you are in.

 

[Mr. Wright]

With all the bikes that go through my shop, I have found that backing the rod 1/4 turn is to much. 1/8 turn seems to work the best on a worn clutch, and a little more slack on the handle. If you still run into problems, pull the clutch pack out and measure it. The minimum height is 1.960". If you don't have any calipers, you can pick up a cheap set at Harbor freight.

 

[Mikeinjersey]

I got to feeling better after my recent date with Ms. Asphalt and figured I'd do a few things to the dog. I changed to a 32 tooth pulley and changed the drive belt while I was at it. Adjusted the clutch as stated in the manual. Got a chance to ride this afternoon. Everything seemed fine til I got out of the driveway. The clutch was slipping when throttled. I came back to my shop and started digging. Readjusted everything and it didn't help. I then pulled the pipes and actuator cover. Checked everything, no issues that I could tell. Reinstalled the rod and set to specs. Seat the rod then back off 1/4 turn. Then adjusted the cable with a 1/16 play. The clutch would not engage. The clutch leaver could not be pulled. Long story short. I had it in neutral. Backed everything off, put it in 1st and readjusted everything. Now it seems right but I have to get new exhaust flange gaskets to install the pipes. I haven't ridden it yet. Was being in neutral my issue?

It sounds to me like you may have adjusted the clutch incorrectly the second time. The clutch pack is relaxed(compressed) at rest and when you pull the clutch handle the rod gets pushed with the action of the ball and ramp which allows the discs to slip. The 1/4 turn adj on the rod and 1/16 play in the handle are to insure the clutch gets fully engaged and disengaged when you pull (engage) or release (disengage) the clutch handle. If you can imagine when the handle is pulled the ball and ramp moves the rod enough to make up 1/4 turn before engagement begins and when you release the handle the 1/16 extra space insures the cable is not pulling on the ball and ramp system. Together you get full engagement and disengagement. If the adj are too loose the result is poor shifting and too tight could cause slippage under power.
Since you just made modifications to increase the power of your bike don't discount the fact that your adjustments could be correct and you have a worn clutch pack that slips under the new power you created.

 

[Smoke67]

Mike,
Thanks for your reply. I understand the mechanics. I hope that my initial adjustment was off. I do not think it is a worn clutch pack. I understand the slippage under power. However, before the new pulley I had no issues no matter how hard I hammered it. The bike has less then 2k on it. As I said it may be a stupid mistake on my part but the actuator rod was further in while in neutral when adjusted to the seat. When in gear the rod was further out. Everything seems good but as I said, I still have to get the pipes back on. I'm sure I will have further questions if it's not right.
Thanks

 

[Smoke67]

Been busy with family but was able to ride a couple times to see if I resolved the clutch issue. Happy to say it's fixed. I do want to comment on the 32 tooth pulley. Though I have been advised of the potential bearing issue, I have to say I am pleased with the pulley. The bike is much smoother at lower rpms. Hunting for the right gear is over at slower speeds. It is not overly noticable until you drop the hammer and run through the gears. I have the S&S 600, dual runner intake and the 32 pulley. It's quick enough for me. I haven't cruised at higher speed yet to see how it does but I am happy with the set up. I have the carb right but still have an occasional carb sneeze if I blip the throttle. Have played with the intermediate but can't get it all out. No decel pop at all. I'll keep working on it.

 

[mleach72]

Been busy with family but was able to ride a couple times to see if I resolved the clutch issue. Happy to say it's fixed. I do want to comment on the 32 tooth pulley. Though I have been advised of the potential bearing issue, I have to say I am pleased with the pulley. The bike is much smoother at lower rpms. Hunting for the right gear is over at slower speeds. It is not overly noticable until you drop the hammer and run through the gears. I have the S&S 600, dual runner intake and the 32 pulley. It's quick enough for me. I haven't cruised at higher speed yet to see how it does but I am happy with the set up. I have the carb right but still have an occasional carb sneeze if I blip the throttle. Have played with the intermediate but can't get it all out. No decel pop at all. I'll keep working on it.

The air cleaner sneeze is hard to eliminate with cams with an early intake opening. I have the 585, which has the same intake opening as the 600. I get an occasional sneeze at low rpm, especially when the engine is cold. The piston is still traveling upward when the intake valve opens. At low rpm, this can cause a sneeze. I've tried several things, like a bigger pilot jet in my mikuni and closing the gap on my accelerator pump, but it's always still there. I've finally accepted that it's just a side effect of a performance cam. It only happens occasionally, and I can live with it for the performance gains of the cam.

 

[Smoke67]

The air cleaner sneeze is hard to eliminate with cams with an early intake opening. I have the 585, which has the same intake opening as the 600. I get an occasional sneeze at low rpm, especially when the engine is cold. The piston is still traveling upward when the intake valve opens. At low rpm, this can cause a sneeze. I've tried several things, like a bigger pilot jet in my mikuni and closing the gap on my accelerator pump, but it's always still there. I've finally accepted that it's just a side effect of a performance cam. It only happens occasionally, and I can live with it for the performance gains of the cam.

This seems to be me. The only difference is mine does it after it's warm??? Always at low rpm. I can live with it. It's only occasional.

 

[john sachs]

The air cleaner sneeze is hard to eliminate with cams with an early intake opening. I have the 585, which has the same intake opening as the 600. I get an occasional sneeze at low rpm, especially when the engine is cold. The piston is still traveling upward when the intake valve opens. At low rpm, this can cause a sneeze. I've tried several things, like a bigger pilot jet in my mikuni and closing the gap on my accelerator pump, but it's always still there. I've finally accepted that it's just a side effect of a performance cam. It only happens occasionally, and I can live with it for the performance gains of the cam.

Try taking some timing out of it. Early intake opening won't make it sneeze. 585 S&S cams at 20 degrees, isn't early.
John

 

[mleach72]

Try taking some timing out of it. Early intake opening won't make it sneeze. 585 S&S cams at 20 degrees, isn't early.
John

Well, it is certainly much earlier than most stock cams, which are around zero or even on the negative side. Like I said, once the motor is warm, it's pretty rare and usually only happens when I'm accidentally lugging the engine. It's not really enough to concern me.
From the Mikuni tuning manual:

 

[john sachs]

Any cams that have intake valve opening around "0" are toys.
John

 

[mleach72]

Any cams that have intake valve opening around "0" are toys.
John

 

[Smoke67]

So, timing or maybe the accelerator pump adj?

 

[mleach72]

So, timing or maybe the accelerator pump adj?

If you have the accelerator pump adjusted per the S&S tuning manual, that's probably the best you are going to do. Making it any longer probably wouldn't do anything other than waste fuel. As for timing, unless you have the Thunderheart Programmable Ignition, the timing is not adjustable. If you do have it, you could try moving it down one position. Me personally, I wouldn't want to lose any fuel mileage to cure an occasional sneeze. JMHO