Stupid question I hope

Energy One

Smoke67

Member
I got to feeling better after my recent date with Ms. Asphalt and figured I'd do a few things to the dog. I changed to a 32 tooth pulley and changed the drive belt while I was at it. Adjusted the clutch as stated in the manual. Got a chance to ride this afternoon. Everything seemed fine til I got out of the driveway. The clutch was slipping when throttled. I came back to my shop and started digging. Readjusted everything and it didn't help. I then pulled the pipes and actuator cover. Checked everything, no issues that I could tell. Reinstalled the rod and set to specs. Seat the rod then back off 1/4 turn. Then adjusted the cable with a 1/16 play. The clutch would not engage. The clutch leaver could not be pulled. Long story short. I had it in neutral. Backed everything off, put it in 1st and readjusted everything. Now it seems right but I have to get new exhaust flange gaskets to install the pipes. I haven't ridden it yet. Was being in neutral my issue?
 

Mr. Wright

Guru
Lifetime Supporting Member
With all the bikes that go through my shop, I have found that backing the rod 1/4 turn is to much. 1/8 turn seems to work the best on a worn clutch, and a little more slack on the handle. If you still run into problems, pull the clutch pack out and measure it. The minimum height is 1.960". If you don't have any calipers, you can pick up a cheap set at Harbor freight.
 
I got to feeling better after my recent date with Ms. Asphalt and figured I'd do a few things to the dog. I changed to a 32 tooth pulley and changed the drive belt while I was at it. Adjusted the clutch as stated in the manual. Got a chance to ride this afternoon. Everything seemed fine til I got out of the driveway. The clutch was slipping when throttled. I came back to my shop and started digging. Readjusted everything and it didn't help. I then pulled the pipes and actuator cover. Checked everything, no issues that I could tell. Reinstalled the rod and set to specs. Seat the rod then back off 1/4 turn. Then adjusted the cable with a 1/16 play. The clutch would not engage. The clutch leaver could not be pulled. Long story short. I had it in neutral. Backed everything off, put it in 1st and readjusted everything. Now it seems right but I have to get new exhaust flange gaskets to install the pipes. I haven't ridden it yet. Was being in neutral my issue?
It sounds to me like you may have adjusted the clutch incorrectly the second time. The clutch pack is relaxed(compressed) at rest and when you pull the clutch handle the rod gets pushed with the action of the ball and ramp which allows the discs to slip. The 1/4 turn adj on the rod and 1/16 play in the handle are to insure the clutch gets fully engaged and disengaged when you pull (engage) or release (disengage) the clutch handle. If you can imagine when the handle is pulled the ball and ramp moves the rod enough to make up 1/4 turn before engagement begins and when you release the handle the 1/16 extra space insures the cable is not pulling on the ball and ramp system. Together you get full engagement and disengagement. If the adj are too loose the result is poor shifting and too tight could cause slippage under power.
Since you just made modifications to increase the power of your bike don't discount the fact that your adjustments could be correct and you have a worn clutch pack that slips under the new power you created.
 
Last edited:

Smoke67

Member
Mike,
Thanks for your reply. I understand the mechanics. I hope that my initial adjustment was off. I do not think it is a worn clutch pack. I understand the slippage under power. However, before the new pulley I had no issues no matter how hard I hammered it. The bike has less then 2k on it. As I said it may be a stupid mistake on my part but the actuator rod was further in while in neutral when adjusted to the seat. When in gear the rod was further out. Everything seems good but as I said, I still have to get the pipes back on. I'm sure I will have further questions if it's not right.
Thanks
 
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