Thorshammer96
Member
OK, that really makes some sense! How should I check or replace these? Do I need to take the handles apart? Should I take it into a shop for it? I really appreciate your time, guys!!!!!!
good advice there - I had mine apart last night and the little brass ferrule on the end of one of the throttle cables dropped inside the bars - slippery little fuckersthe switch circuit board is a bit tough cause your messing with the throttle cables and the rear magnetic brake switch inside the control. much easier with a second pair of hands.
I'm not a professional mechanic but I would check the condition of the starter solenoid first by removing it and checkin the contacts condition. Hundreds of amps of current need to pass through these contacts and if they are corroded or burnt then the voltage and current supply to the starter will suffer.Newest developments-
Reordered battery connections as per Kam. Pulled the spark plugs to see if the engine would roll and it did a couple of times. Sometimes, when I depressed the start, I got absolutely nothing, no compression release, nothing. I got a half a crank most of the time. Some times, I just heard the starter engage. I got the engine to roll a couple of times by pulling the plugs. I'm getting 12 V at the starter when I push the start. What the hell is going on??:bang:
Sounds like a weak battery. The drop in voltage was cause it powered up the EHC and all it's components and of course the headlight came on.Damn...I got a different volt meter and i have 12.8 with the key off...when i turn the key on it goes down to 12.5/12.4....Guess I need to get a battery cause it was on the tender for past two days since I rode last. I think I am understanding it right that it wont even cause the starter to think about turning over without having 12.8V with the key on....Correct? :bang: