I was gona say any PMI dealer should be able to get them.:2thumbs:T,
I'm really not sure, it's never come up before.:lol:
But that does seem pretty steep.
check with PM (Performance Machine) and see if they carry them.
Remember Diameter and Depth do matter! At least that what "she" said too!
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should be from the underside of the shoulder/head to the inside edge of the slot for the circlip or maybe a few thousandths more than the thickness of the rotor/ mounting hub.D.O.C, you were talking about Dia. and depth I can measure the dia. but what about the depth.
Well there ya go!!!Toss the floating rotors and get a set of DNA polished stainless for $100. They look better anyway. I'd never pay that much for the pins that's a trainwreck.
:2thumbs:Do you have a link?Toss the floating rotors and get a set of DNA polished stainless for $100. They look better anyway. I'd never pay that much for the pins that's a trainwreck.
I agree with Moe! I really don't understand the WHY's of floating rotors. I have about 5000 miles on these Chrome rotors. No warp, still fabulous chrome finish (except of course where pads rub - but even then they don't look as off-colored as floatings).Toss the floating rotors and get a set of DNA polished stainless for $100. They look better anyway. I'd never pay that much for the pins that's a trainwreck.

I lost one on the front once???:bang:Speaking of pin wear and floating rotors, what is the reasoning behind floating rotors (heat dissipation and less chance of warp?) and how bad can parts (pin, rotor, inner part) be worn before they need replaced and do they ever fail/break? If I missed a thread on all this sorry and please direct me.
Thanks, Shovelcowboy
