Replaced Ignition Switch -> Humming Noise

[cousinaz]

Hello All:

I have a 2000 Vintage Sport. When I returned from a ride, yesterday, I saw that the key had fallen out of the ignition. I was able to purchase a 3-wire replacement switch, locally and installed it, today. When I turn the key, the speedometer performs the initial "sweep" as it did before and everything looks "normal," but I hear a humming noise. This could have been there prior to changing the switch, as I have always started the bike outside, where there was ambient noise, or I had my helmet on. Is this normal? Related to the switch change, when I tested the wiring, the switch position labeled "B" went to the negative side of the battery. The switch position labeled "IG" went to the positive side of the battery. Is this correct? I haven't started the bike, yet. Thank you, in advance, for the help!

 

[Sven]

You're saying the switch is buzzing? You can put your ear down there and it buzzes? Hand on the switch and is it hot? Normal? Not if the new switch is the source. Just a guess here.

 

[Jersey Big Mike]

Hello All:

I have a 2000 Vintage Sport. When I returned from a ride, yesterday, I saw that the key had fallen out of the ignition. I was able to purchase a 3-wire replacement switch, locally and installed it, today. When I turn the key, the speedometer performs the initial "sweep" as it did before and everything looks "normal," but I hear a humming noise. This could have been there prior to changing the switch, as I have always started the bike outside, where there was ambient noise, or I had my helmet on. Is this normal? Related to the switch change, when I tested the wiring, the switch position labeled "B" went to the negative side of the battery. The switch position labeled "IG" went to the positive side of the battery. Is this correct? I haven't started the bike, yet. Thank you, in advance, for the help!

Big Dogs are wired so that switches pull to ground when on and the EHC does the rest.
Conventional wiring Positive Power would go to one side and be transferred thru switch to destination after it was on.

So while the IG side has a positive voltage to it, it is NOT wired to the positive terminal of the battery but a circuit that is above ground level when inactive and grounded when active. Sort of backwards but it allows smaller switches and less power to switches. Done well it can be very useful. As implemented in the BDM original EHC (at least in 08 style) based on my personal experience I feel it leaves some reliabilty to be desired. (Both my original EHCs died).

 

[cousinaz]

Thank you, both, for the replies.

Jersey Big Mike, thank you for the clarification. I believe the original EHC is installed in the bike (I am the second owner). I am keeping my fingers crossed that it continues to function for a while.

Sven, my apologies, I did not communicate the location of the "humming" sound, very well. I thought it was under the center panel, between the fuel tanks. I just removed the panel and determined that it is the speedometer that is making the noise. I am not sure if this is accurate, but it appears that the speedometer lighting, as well as the indicator lights are brighter than they were previously. Can they be getting too much voltage somehow? This is all without the motor running. Thank you.

 

[Jersey Big Mike]

Thank you, both, for the replies.

Jersey Big Mike, thank you for the clarification. I believe the original EHC is installed in the bike (I am the second owner). I am keeping my fingers crossed that it continues to function for a while.

Sven, my apologies, I did not communicate the location of the "humming" sound, very well. I thought it was under the center panel, between the fuel tanks. I just removed the panel and determined that it is the speedometer that is making the noise. I am not sure if this is accurate, but it appears that the speedometer lighting, as well as the indicator lights are brighter than they were previously. Can they be getting too much voltage somehow? This is all without the motor running. Thank you.

With the engine off ie stator/VR effectively out of circuit, I find it highly unlikely that increased voltage is cause.
Perceived brightness increase my simply be paying more attention to it.
The system is 12v, good battery is 12.8, running system at max is 14.4 so running they might be brighter as then there is a slight voltage increase.

The lights in that are are LEDS or small incandesent bulbs neither of which are known to hum.
The speedo is a coil based unit and coils can hum under certain conditions, although I've never had or seen a speedo do that.
Your best method to check would of course be to pull the connector to speedo to see if the humming stops.

Personally I am not very familiar with 2000 Pro sport so I am basing this off general knowledge not model specifics.

Is there any "extras" wired into the bike, stereo, LEDS etc?

 

[Mikeinjersey]

Hello All:

I have a 2000 Vintage Sport. When I returned from a ride, yesterday, I saw that the key had fallen out of the ignition. I was able to purchase a 3-wire replacement switch, locally and installed it, today. When I turn the key, the speedometer performs the initial "sweep" as it did before and everything looks "normal," but I hear a humming noise. This could have been there prior to changing the switch, as I have always started the bike outside, where there was ambient noise, or I had my helmet on. Is this normal? Related to the switch change, when I tested the wiring, the switch position labeled "B" went to the negative side of the battery. The switch position labeled "IG" went to the positive side of the battery. Is this correct? I haven't started the bike, yet. Thank you, in advance, for the help!

Since your old switch is known good but stuck in the on position I would reinstall it to see if the problem goes away. Pull the neg battery cable off, install old switch, reconnect and see if the noise is gone. If the problem is gone I would not reinstall the new switch until I was sure it was the proper switch for your year Bike, EHC and ignition. Keep asking and someone on this site will know what the appropriate switch is. If the bike is not stock take a picture of the old switch and again someone may have the answer for you.
If the switch is labeled "B" I would have thought that wire went to the Positive side of the battery and the wire labeled IG I would have connected to the EHC , Ignition or a circuit breaker. I'm sure I'm misunderstanding your post because I think it would be a dead short to connect a switch across a battery without a component in-between.

 

[Sven]

What Mike said. Probable the do's and don'ts are not to take apart the old switch. Why? Are we talking a resistor inside or something that stops this buzz/bright dash lights? The do would be to have someone shoot a key so you can take the photo on the phone and the switch to a locksmith and have the key made and use the old switch.

The brighter light and buzz would answer both by installing the old switch.

 

[cousinaz]

All - I wanted to bring a small amount of closure to this "issue." As I mentioned originally, I installed a generic 3-wire switch (mfr: EMGO, $13) and noticed a humming noise coming from the speedometer. And, possibly brighter backlighting and indicator lights. I was not able to reinstall the old switch and test it, because I only had the one key that was lost. So, I decided to just ride the bike. I do not know if this will ultimately cause a premature failure of the speedometer, but everything has been functioning as it was prior to changing out the switch. Sorry for this long-winded entry, that doesn't result in a definitive conclusion, but all too often, threads don't "end." I will provide a future update if something changes or I learn more. Thank you, again, for all of the replies. Dave.