Rear compression release stripped please help!!!

Energy One
N

Naked1rr

New Member
I’m having an issue with the CR and threads being stripped at the head any ideas for a fix? I was wondering if the helicoil would work in this situation or if I might have to go a different route. Any and all suggestions would be great
 
S

Sven

Well-Known Member
Any and all suggestions would be great
Click to expand...
1. New head and valves.
2. Timesert: It's more the mushroom locker on the other side. It's like a one time to get it right, or the jobber comes out with it.
3. Heli: Where here is a thread depth without pulling the head? Or let's take a walk as if the coil is too long, the other is too short to use.
a. Thread depth is to roll the tool out, keep checking where the last thread lands before the knockout-pin [call it] enters the chamber and there is your hot spot on that end. Then it's at the other end and how do you address so many coils sitting outside the hole? A dremel at the cut point where that one wind has to be under the thread cut and pops in place, right? That, or pull the head and address the dremel cut on the inside of the last wind to thread ending on that first entry point. Because on the outside, you wound it so no cut is going to be dremel'd, or as if it was the right size and now stop, flip the head, cut the winds and you have no hot spot.
b. Dry cut: Say you have the correct size. This is at TDC-C and now past TDC is the power stroke. So there is room for the first cut of the heli tap, as long as you lower the piston from there and not open the exhaust valve. Then it's spark plug out and dry-blow all the chips out, blowing out of both holes, ect.
c. Grease cut: Chips tumble in the grease; drop forms a weight; drop splats on piston dome... how is that you say getting that clump out?

Signed,
I dried you so
 
Mikeinjersey

Mikeinjersey

Well-Known Member
N

Naked1rr

New Member
Sven said:
1. New head and valves.
2. Timesert: It's more the mushroom locker on the other side. It's like a one time to get it right, or the jobber comes out with it.
3. Heli: Where here is a thread depth without pulling the head? Or let's take a walk as if the coil is too long, the other is too short to use.
a. Thread depth is to roll the tool out, keep checking where the last thread lands before the knockout-pin [call it] enters the chamber and there is your hot spot on that end. Then it's at the other end and how do you address so many coils sitting outside the hole? A dremel at the cut point where that one wind has to be under the thread cut and pops in place, right? That, or pull the head and address the dremel cut on the inside of the last wind to thread ending on that first entry point. Because on the outside, you wound it so no cut is going to be dremel'd, or as if it was the right size and now stop, flip the head, cut the winds and you have no hot spot.
b. Dry cut: Say you have the correct size. This is at TDC-C and now past TDC is the power stroke. So there is room for the first cut of the heli tap, as long as you lower the piston from there and not open the exhaust valve. Then it's spark plug out and dry-blow all the chips out, blowing out of both holes, ect.
c. Grease cut: Chips tumble in the grease; drop forms a weight; drop splats on piston dome... how is that you say getting that clump out?

Signed,
I dried you so
Click to expand...
Thanks for that
 
S

Sven

Well-Known Member
Naked, here's the final as to where you are at. You're down to two decisions:
Heli ~ Those in the know, know a heli is out of the question. Too thin at the head.
Head ~ Of course new w/valves is a no brainer, and then ask the wallet about it.
W&T ~ Short of warping the head, you're in the cheap seats with the weld and tap.

Signed,
If if works for pop's sickle
 
knothead

knothead

Second Chance Customs
As Popsicle said you can weld it up and remachine it... just make sure if you go that route you need a jig to bolt the head to so it doesnt warp the head when welding....but first know the proper angle of the compression release in the head was and located correctly...set it up in a mill with the head on it to get the correct angle before going any further...once you have that set then remove from mill and go to a jig and weld it up...let it cool naturally after welding....do not shock with water or compressed air..... let it cool on its on...put it back on a mill and drill and tap....
 
N

Naked1rr

New Member
popsicle069 said:
I had the threads strip on my rear head also.

I took the head off and over to a guy that welded it back closed then re-drilled and tapped for the compression release.

Been about 10k miles no problems.

Just another option.
Click to expand...
Popsicle, thanks for the advice I’ll look around for a guy that does head work and see if maybe that’s something he can do.
 
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