Really?
PDM with HID???
- Thread starter PurpleDog
- Start date
bdmridgeback
Low Down Chop Shop
You really don't have to be an ass. When a customer installs something incorrectly, or when BDM builds something that doesn't work, the customer has to blame it on someone. In this case, it has to be the HID's fault that the PDM is faulty
You have never contacted me yet to even ask for a replacement ballast or just to answer questions to figure it out.I ALWAYS go out of my way to help a customer and have never assumed that they should eat something. I can throw it in the trash can and give you a new one, no big deal, it's just money. Unhappy customers just make more unhappy customers, so making you happy is more important than the HID in the trash can.
So, send me the ballast... actually, send me the entire HID kit and I will send you a complete new one. You will have a Brand New one in a box to use, or pawn off if you choose not to use it. Problem is, the HID kit isn't the issue, it is the PDM, and I am pretty sure BDM wont hand you over a new one to keep you happy. Maybe, but doubt it. I can rest assure you, if you would have just installed that Wire-Plus kit on your shelf, you would have been way further ahead with one less headache.
Tried and true... it means alot!
My address to send your kit:
Jake Tuckey
Low Down Chop Shop
17481 Old Harmony Dr Unit 202
Fort Myers, FL
33908
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PurpleDog
Well-Known Member
Actually, I'm not blaming anyone but myself; however, I actually suspect it may have more to do with the fact that I cut the PDM harness up and re-soldered it together, or it really is incompatible with the PDM/HCI perhaps; but I haven't talked to them yet. I didn't ask you for a refund or exchange nor do I intend to. I didn't ask BDM for a refund/exchange, nor do I intend to.You really don't have to be an ass. When a customer installs something incorrectly, or when BDM builds something that doesn't work, the customer has to blame it on someone. In this case, it has to be the HID's fault that the PDM is faulty
I ALWAYS go out of my way to help a customer and have never assumed that they should eat something. I can throw it in the trash can and give you a new one, no big deal, it's just money. Unhappy customers just make more unhappy customers, so making you happy is more important than the HID in the trash can.
So, send me the ballast... actually, send me the entire HID kit and I will send you a complete new one. You will have a Brand New one in a box to use, or pawn off if you choose not to use it. Problem is, the HID kit isn't the issue, it is the PDM, and I am pretty sure BDM wont hand you over a new one to keep you happy. Maybe, but doubt it. I can rest assure you, if you would have just installed that Wire-Plus kit on your shelf, you would have been way further ahead with one less headache.
Tried and true... it means alot!
My address to send your kit:
Jake Tuckey
Low Down Chop Shop
17481 Old Harmony Dr Unit 202
Fort Myers, FL
33908
I intend to learn what really went wrong with my install and set out to fix it. You seem rather quick to make judgment upon others motives and/or skill level; which, in my view seem to speak volumes of your character. Was it necessary for you to be an ass?
Perhaps if you had an interest in helping me learn what went wrong, you could have chosen a different approach. Do you know anything about the electronics present within the HCI module of the PDM kit? - I do not know. Do you know that if your theory is correct and I did short the HID to light bucket ground that the HCI module would overheat or otherwise burn - I don't know. Do you know that if I had in fact done the same that perhaps my wire soldering / shrink wrap wire surgery would possibly be the weak link - I don't know. Do you know if I can repair whatever it is that I screw'd up? - I don't know (although, I doubt it).
What I do know is that I didn't ask you for anything nor your hasty proclamation that I was somehow careless in my install and apparent dismissal of the problem area - to what end exactly? I would normally respectfully submit that you may wish to take this conversation private; however, instead I will advise you not to bother. I'll figure it out without your professional assistance, thanks.
/jim
bdmridgeback
Low Down Chop Shop
It doesn't seem that I came across as an ass towards you here, but only told you what causes 50% of the issues on calls I get or of the few units I get sent back to me. I was only giving you something to check out that you may not have checked.
This is where the "ass"uming was started. You didn't really need to come back with something like that just because I offered advise to you for something to check out. No where up above did I come out and blame you, the customer for a f-ed up install, Just something to check is all.
Also, I sold you a HID kit, My phone number is on my website and You could have PM'ed me on here as well before just posting that the HID kit clearly burnt up your HCI.
I won't give you a refund nor did I offer one, I offered for you to send the HID kit to me for a 100% replacement so that you can rule out the defective HID. I also always just throw in freebie Dyna Beads kit to cover the customers shipping cost to me and the hassle.
Also If you would have called me on the phone, you would see, like all the others on the forum here that have talked to me on the phone, I am a great level headed guy that never blames anyone for a problem. You would have also found out that I know a TON about the HCI, PDM, EHC, BDM... that most dealers don't even know. I have done my homework and just know alot about all the electronics in these BDM's and continue to disect them weekly.
Tearing one apart Thursday.
So, with that said, I'm sorry if I came across as an ass to you, I type normal on here and DON'T EVER YELL, just try to help everyone out that needs help and wants help.
So, either way, let me know if the HID kit is coming my way or not, so that I know to watch for it.
Sorry for the so called rant as well. :2thumbs:
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Five Five
Well-Known Member
Fair statement Jake....Lets move forward..
Iahcon
Member
HID install
On a different note...
I installed an HID kit from HID nation and went for a test drive. Loved the light and had no issues. Then on my drive home from work things started to happen. Neutral light blinking on and off, ALL tach lights lighting up, then no tach readout at all, a flickering in the HID headlight. Didn't realize the electronics in my 07 Mastiff were so sensitive.
I will be removing the HID light.
I am wondering if anyone has tried running a dedicated switched wire directly from the headlight to the battery with any success?
On a different note...
I installed an HID kit from HID nation and went for a test drive. Loved the light and had no issues. Then on my drive home from work things started to happen. Neutral light blinking on and off, ALL tach lights lighting up, then no tach readout at all, a flickering in the HID headlight. Didn't realize the electronics in my 07 Mastiff were so sensitive.
I will be removing the HID light.
I am wondering if anyone has tried running a dedicated switched wire directly from the headlight to the battery with any success?
nine lives
Active Member
Damn guys, just change out the OEM headlight connector to ceramic and use a stock wattage bulb. Sorry Jake, no sale on the HID kit, also no problems.
PaulHart
Well-Known Member
I don't think that will work with the EHC.
Fibersnake
Banjo Playing PsychoBilly
Here is my 2 cents on HID Kits, there has been many rider of many brands and not just Big Dog that has had problems with such. This is not to say that HID are bad of that Jake’s kit is bad, but there has been problems and one can research the many forums from HD to BMW to see some of the problems others have had.
HID do have some advantage that is for sure, however IMHO there is many risk with putting in a kit unless it is a direct retrofit kit from OEM type. HID use a ballast and the bulb is running off A/C verse D/C. The running amperage is much lower the filament bulbs for sure, however the start up is much higher (they work by creating a spark across an electrode –think arc welding-which heats up the xenon gas and as they heat up the amperage drops). The biggest load is at start up.
The ballast is putting out A/C volts and if it is a cheap ballast or has problems, this alone can lead to issues. Proper shielding cannot be over emphasized.
In addition for the most part they are illegal (I know the nature of us is to ignore that) but in this case there is reason. Optics on OEM are well focused to insure that the light is being displayed properly as well as not blinding the other drivers. In a OEM system use low and high beam, there either have two sets of HID or use a shade to cover portions for low beam and remove shade for high beam. Installing a halogen light piggy-back or next to a HID that is not designed for such is one creating extra heat to the Halogen circuit and two make the optics crap.
Many HID kits advertise that they draw 3-4 amps, that is true, however that is after start-up and stabilization, during the start phase and ignition phase a high voltage is used to get the spark to make the Xenon ionized, after that there is the initial phase were the gases are being heated up very quickly by operating at a high voltage. From there the normal operation stabilizes and the stable voltage is obtained and should have a stable arc.
For some of you more tweaker types, that have a HID kit sitting aside, put a good multi-meter on the D/C power feeds (preferable recording type with high-low) and hook up to battery (bench test) and watch the voltage range.
Now since the ballast and the bulb are operating on A/c Voltage at high frequency, any improper shielding can created havoc on the DC side. For some of you electronic type out there, I am sure that you can appreciate this by looking at PLC, alarms and critical Low voltage circuits where shielded wire is very important in many scenarios. Hell for some old time musician that deal with tube amp, think what kind of noise one can get if the D/C side of the transformer is not shielded well.
Now the kits in many cases the ballast is inside an enclosed space with heat being generated by the bulb, ballast, etc. Heat rise create resistance to flow and can deteriorate circuits and components not design for such (remember our cheap plastic headlight connectors). So if the ballast start breaking down, then voltage is not stable and many times one gets the flashing or strobe effect of the light (if the light is not stable due to fluctuation from the voltage via the ballast, what do you think is the effect on the power side which is connected to the rest of the electrical circuit?
Last but not least, assuming a very good kit made with high quality ballast, igniters and bulbs and not some low quality Chinese crap, and then you still have the optics. Great we are running down the road, see a nice bright white light, look cool, etc. Still is the nice white light balance properly with the beam focused to insure that what ahead is seen at best? Or do we get an optical illusion that say hey my light is bright thus it may be better? Let’s not forget the person coming down the road at you, how about if your headlight blinds them and they swerve and run into your ass because they cannot see?
So though I think a properly designed HID would be much better than Halogen lights, until they come up with a proper retro fit, that is DOT approved, I rather lean on the side of safety and possibly sparing the rest of electrical circuit havoc trying to chase down stray joules and PFM (pure f%#king magic) stuff. Combined this with being installed by various level of users, some being much more experience in proper electronics, other just past figuring out how if the light in the refrigerator does indeed go out when the door is closed, well you get the idea.
I will say that if I was going to put a kit on, I would give very high consideration to running wires from the battery directly with a proper fuse to a high quality relay and then let the relay be controlled by the hand control only. That way I am less likely to have the high start up current effect my other circuits as well as the amperage to turn the baby over. The other option, if it was me, would to be to have the lights be switch on after start up either via a timer circuit or dedicated switch, and if not mistaken some of the stuff LowDOwn offer does do this.
Primary choice for me is to get good high quality Halogen bulbs, get the headlight aim right and worry less about something affecting my electronics no matter how good the product is or is not, unless it is a direct retro-fit approved by OEM.
HID do have some advantage that is for sure, however IMHO there is many risk with putting in a kit unless it is a direct retrofit kit from OEM type. HID use a ballast and the bulb is running off A/C verse D/C. The running amperage is much lower the filament bulbs for sure, however the start up is much higher (they work by creating a spark across an electrode –think arc welding-which heats up the xenon gas and as they heat up the amperage drops). The biggest load is at start up.
The ballast is putting out A/C volts and if it is a cheap ballast or has problems, this alone can lead to issues. Proper shielding cannot be over emphasized.
In addition for the most part they are illegal (I know the nature of us is to ignore that) but in this case there is reason. Optics on OEM are well focused to insure that the light is being displayed properly as well as not blinding the other drivers. In a OEM system use low and high beam, there either have two sets of HID or use a shade to cover portions for low beam and remove shade for high beam. Installing a halogen light piggy-back or next to a HID that is not designed for such is one creating extra heat to the Halogen circuit and two make the optics crap.
Many HID kits advertise that they draw 3-4 amps, that is true, however that is after start-up and stabilization, during the start phase and ignition phase a high voltage is used to get the spark to make the Xenon ionized, after that there is the initial phase were the gases are being heated up very quickly by operating at a high voltage. From there the normal operation stabilizes and the stable voltage is obtained and should have a stable arc.
For some of you more tweaker types, that have a HID kit sitting aside, put a good multi-meter on the D/C power feeds (preferable recording type with high-low) and hook up to battery (bench test) and watch the voltage range.
Now since the ballast and the bulb are operating on A/c Voltage at high frequency, any improper shielding can created havoc on the DC side. For some of you electronic type out there, I am sure that you can appreciate this by looking at PLC, alarms and critical Low voltage circuits where shielded wire is very important in many scenarios. Hell for some old time musician that deal with tube amp, think what kind of noise one can get if the D/C side of the transformer is not shielded well.
Now the kits in many cases the ballast is inside an enclosed space with heat being generated by the bulb, ballast, etc. Heat rise create resistance to flow and can deteriorate circuits and components not design for such (remember our cheap plastic headlight connectors). So if the ballast start breaking down, then voltage is not stable and many times one gets the flashing or strobe effect of the light (if the light is not stable due to fluctuation from the voltage via the ballast, what do you think is the effect on the power side which is connected to the rest of the electrical circuit?
Last but not least, assuming a very good kit made with high quality ballast, igniters and bulbs and not some low quality Chinese crap, and then you still have the optics. Great we are running down the road, see a nice bright white light, look cool, etc. Still is the nice white light balance properly with the beam focused to insure that what ahead is seen at best? Or do we get an optical illusion that say hey my light is bright thus it may be better? Let’s not forget the person coming down the road at you, how about if your headlight blinds them and they swerve and run into your ass because they cannot see?
So though I think a properly designed HID would be much better than Halogen lights, until they come up with a proper retro fit, that is DOT approved, I rather lean on the side of safety and possibly sparing the rest of electrical circuit havoc trying to chase down stray joules and PFM (pure f%#king magic) stuff. Combined this with being installed by various level of users, some being much more experience in proper electronics, other just past figuring out how if the light in the refrigerator does indeed go out when the door is closed, well you get the idea.
I will say that if I was going to put a kit on, I would give very high consideration to running wires from the battery directly with a proper fuse to a high quality relay and then let the relay be controlled by the hand control only. That way I am less likely to have the high start up current effect my other circuits as well as the amperage to turn the baby over. The other option, if it was me, would to be to have the lights be switch on after start up either via a timer circuit or dedicated switch, and if not mistaken some of the stuff LowDOwn offer does do this.
Primary choice for me is to get good high quality Halogen bulbs, get the headlight aim right and worry less about something affecting my electronics no matter how good the product is or is not, unless it is a direct retro-fit approved by OEM.
PaulHart
Well-Known Member
And there you have it. :2thumbs:
FiberSnake I was maybe thinking of wrapping myself up in Christmas tree lights and going down the road. Is there a way I can accomplish this? I'm still running the EHC. I thought of running a electrical cord from the house but that wouldn't work for obvious reasons. Maybe have a vehicle behind me with an inverter and a 25 ft cord running to it. I'll use a highly visible extension cord of course for safety.
:2thumbs:FiberSnake I was maybe thinking of wrapping myself up in Christmas tree lights and going down the road. Is there a way I can accomplish this? I'm still running the EHC. I thought of running a electrical cord from the house but that wouldn't work for obvious reasons. Maybe have a vehicle behind me with an inverter and a 25 ft cord running to it. I'll use a highly visible extension cord of course for safety.
Fibersnake
Banjo Playing PsychoBilly
Paul not a bad idea, but would recommend a pure sine wave inverter and the use of LED lights. Less chance of the LED flickering! You know the alternative is to just run the lights straight off the altenator with a regulator set up for the voltage of the lighting on a single phase and then use the other two phases as normal going across the diode bridge for the D/C side.And there you have it.
FiberSnake I was maybe thinking of wrapping myself up in Christmas tree lights and going down the road. Is there a way I can accomplish this? I'm still running the EHC. I thought of running a electrical cord from the house but that wouldn't work for obvious reasons. Maybe have a vehicle behind me with an inverter and a 25 ft cord running to it. I'll use a highly visible extension cord of course for safety.
Not sure but think Wla-mart may have had some Pakistan water-proof led lights with DIN sockets.
Look forward to the pictures. Oh all kidding aside, best wishes for a great Christmas and Holiday season too you and yours.
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stlmikie
I wish I had more money.
Wow lots of good info!!!! Thanks!!! I say F*** A HID!!!!