Overtightened primary drain plug

Energy One
Thisguyisthelimit

Thisguyisthelimit

Member
So I went to drain my primary and realized the drain plug was so overtightened from the last guy that it's stripped. Is this going to cause some issues in the near future? How do I get it out of there?
 
liferider

liferider

Looking forward to retirement
The HeliCoil product portfolio includes - Genuine HeliCoil Product Range available as HeliCoil Wire Thread Inserts - Free Running Inserts & Screw Locking Inserts, HeliCoil inserts of Nimonic 90, Nitronic 60, Titanium alloys, Inconel X-750, Phosphorus Bronze, and various other Space Age Metals, in addition to the standard range of HeliCoil available in 18-8 Grades of Stainless Steel such as SS-304, SS-316 and DTD 734. Also available are variety of Thread Repair Kits - HeliCoil Professional Kits, HeliCoil Master Kits, HeliCoil After Market Kits, HeliCoil Insertion Tools, HeliCoil Thread Taps, HeliCoil Thread Plug Gauges, HeliCoil Extraction Tools, HeliCoil Manual Tang Break off Tools, HeliCoil Automatic Spring Loaded Tang Break off Tools and Semi-Automatic & Automatic equipment for HeliCoil installation.

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Helicoil Thread Repair Kit - Professional



All HeliCoil Thread Repair Kits including the Professional Thread Repair Kits are used for creating stronger internal threads in all metals, composites, polymers and other materials by repairing damaged or stripped internal threads and regaining the original thread size. HeliCoil Thread Repair Kit creates longer lasting durable threads, avoids thread over-sizing, increases the possibility of higher torque application in weaker metals, significantly reduces the bolt breaking problems & HeliCoil being made of stainless steel protects against atmospheric corrosion. HeliCoil Professional Thread Repair Kits include everything required to do the job right – good number of inserts each of 3 lengths (short, medium & long) for multiple applications, HSS drill bit ,Finishing tap, installation tool and tang breaking tool – all in a rugged new box. These kits are available in metric range from M2 to M12 and in UNC/UNF range "4-40 to 1/2”.



Helicoil Thread Repair Kit - Master



HeliCoil Master Thread Repair Kit once again contains everything required to do the job right – good number of inserts of standard length (1.5D), HSS drill bit, Finishing tap, installation tool and tang breaking tool – all in a rugged box. These kits are available in metric range from M14 to M20, M24 upto M36 and in UNC/UNF range 9/16” to 1-1/2” .



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Helicoil Free Running Inserts


HeliCoil standard range is available in Stainless Steel AISI-304/ DTD734, metric series ranges from M1.6, M2 to M56 & in unified series from UNC / UNF 1-64 to 1-1/2 inch. HeliCoil is also available in strip feed or reel mounted form, HeliCoil in strip feed form are best suited for significantly reducing the installation time using power tool for installation of inserts.

HeliCoil Inserts or Wire Thread Inserts are made of cold rolled 18-8 grade Stainless Steel to AS7245 , MIL-I-8846 & DTD734 specifications. This wire is cold rolled to a diamond cross section producing an ultimate tensile strength of approximately 1375-1725 MPa, mirror like surface finish of 2-4 Microns and flank hardness of RC 43-50 which is far in excess of the usual tapped materials and best suited for most of the industrial needs. HeliCoil Inserts can also be supplied in other materials such as SS-316, Inconel X-750, Titanium Alloys, Nimonic 90, Nitronic 60, Phosphorus Bronze, Beryllium Copper and with special coating and plating requirements such as Cadmium plating, Silver plating, Zinc plating, Nickel plating
 
Th3InfamousI

Th3InfamousI

Administrator
Staff member
Well you should be able to get it out with an easy out and the threads are probably fine.

I'm guessing your saying that the plug is stripped. BTW it's actually a T30 star bit...not an Allen key

Sent from my 2PS64 using Tapatalk
 
SKOGDOG

SKOGDOG

One of the old ones.
Access is an issue. On mine, we put it on a lift, secured the front end, and jacked up the rear end until we could get at it, and used a hammer to drive in either a star or an Allen. That worked.
I think someone on this forum described a time when he had to lay his bike on a blanket on the grass outside in order to get at the underside...it sure would give you an advantage over trying to get it out with only four inches between the plug and the ground.
 
pknowles

pknowles

RETIRED
Jack the bike up enough to get a drill under it. Use a 1/8th drill bit and very carefully drill up thru the center of the plug. Then you can screw it out with an easy out. A right angle drill motor works really well.hope this helps. If you use this method flush the primary with a little oil before putting the new plug in. Most of the chips will or should hang on the magnet attached to the top of the plug.
 
RRRUFF

RRRUFF

Well-Known Member
Do you like guru said it is a lot easier. On a side note, If the threads are messed up and you decide to put a pipe plug in it be very careful. The pipe plug is tapered and will crack the housing if you over tighten. Try to stick with the original o-ring design.
 
V

Viking

Biker
A much easier job than screwed up threads. Like some suggest above, take the cover off and work on it while on a bench. A drill and an easy out will have that plug out in no time. New plug can be had from Donna.
 
PROFLYER

PROFLYER

SWOLE
Order a new plug from wild steed werx. A large easy-out will turn that out of there. I found one that's just a bit larger than the hole, tapped it in there gently and then turned it out and replaced the plug. It's got a torque spec of like 16ftlbs or something like that--it's really low. You just need to set that plug, not tighten the crap out of it.
 
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