Out the shop

bdm7250

Guru
Supporting Member
Do you have an inline fuel filter? AIH typically came stock with a Golan fuel filter, if so take it apart and clean it. If not, drain your tank, pull the petcock and check the screen for buildup. Both of these things cost you nothing but time. As mentioned by Harry, loosen your gas cap when it stalls, if you hear air rushing in the tank its a vent problem. Could also be ignition issue, the ignition wire loom on the Tejas goes from cone up through the frame mid downtube just in front of the trans, I had a broken wire which once the bike warmed up would be problematic so I changed the entire ignition to Ultima. The kit has new ignition module, wire loom and coil, cost was under 200 bucks and now it is a very reliable ride. None of these may be your exact issue but they would be my suggestions for places to look. Diagnosing without hearing is very difficult... could always just be the dirty California air.. :oldhardlaugh:
 

Jerome Yee

Member
Do you have an inline fuel filter? AIH typically came stock with a Golan fuel filter, if so take it apart and clean it. If not, drain your tank, pull the petcock and check the screen for buildup. Both of these things cost you nothing but time. As mentioned by Harry, loosen your gas cap when it stalls, if you hear air rushing in the tank its a vent problem. Could also be ignition issue, the ignition wire loom on the Tejas goes from cone up through the frame mid downtube just in front of the trans, I had a broken wire which once the bike warmed up would be problematic so I changed the entire ignition to Ultima. The kit has new ignition module, wire loom and coil, cost was under 200 bucks and now it is a very reliable ride. None of these may be your exact issue but they would be my suggestions for places to look. Diagnosing without hearing is very difficult... could always just be the dirty California air.. :oldhardlaugh:
Loosen the gas cap huh that would be a quick fix, at this point I got to try every thing I can, there is only one shop up here that'll work on my bike, HD won't work on it saying if they break something they wouldn't have the parts, so the one shop I took it to is the one above I mentioned.. Never worked on a bike before so I'm some what hesitant, maybe simple thing I'll do but to really get into the motor and all that Im not looking forward to it. Thanks for the help BrotherIMG_20210929_053236310.jpg
 

Jerome Yee

Member
Do you have an inline fuel filter? AIH typically came stock with a Golan fuel filter, if so take it apart and clean it. If not, drain your tank, pull the petcock and check the screen for buildup. Both of these things cost you nothing but time. As mentioned by Harry, loosen your gas cap when it stalls, if you hear air rushing in the tank its a vent problem. Could also be ignition issue, the ignition wire loom on the Tejas goes from cone up through the frame mid downtube just in front of the trans, I had a broken wire which once the bike warmed up would be problematic so I changed the entire ignition to Ultima. The kit has new ignition module, wire loom and coil, cost was under 200 bucks and now it is a very reliable ride. None of these may be your exact issue but they would be my suggestions for places to look. Diagnosing without hearing is very difficult... could always just be the dirty California air.. :oldhardlaugh:
By the way I'm in Northern California the air is good if we're not burning up
 

knothead

RIGID4LIFE
Supporting Member
Everyone here has given great advice on things to look for....process of elimination is cheap like several of us has said.

Piss on HD i wouldnt let them put air in my tire they would mess that up...

Everyone on here is willing to help you work on your bike and get it up and running...
 

Pddain

PHTM II
Supporting Member
I went through the exact same symptoms. Knothead had great advice. Check the pet cock. My issue was the tank liner was peeling and blocking fuel flow causing the bike to just quit. When we pulled the pet cock the screen was filled with small bits of tank liner. After it stalled, on a full tank, I switched to reserve and it started and ran.

I also had the fuel vent issue but this was a result of a new cap and a repaint that blocked air flow. I backed the cap off a half turn and that was solved. I removed the white vent in the cap and that solved it permenantly.

a bad interpretation of Occam’s razor is the simplest explanation is preferable to one that is more complex. For me it is KISS. “ keep it simple stupid”.
Good Luck. Let us know.
 

Lumi Ints

Member
Hi, I had American Ironhorse Slammer 2003 many years ago and had similar problem with it. My case was, that number plate lighting wire inside of swingarm was in short circuit. This caused overheating of the main fuse ( automatic ) and after the some riding it switched off whole bike. Then I waited for couple minutes I could start engine again and drive some kilometers until the next shut down.
 

Jerome Yee

Member
I went through the exact same symptoms. Knothead had great advice. Check the pet cock. My issue was the tank liner was peeling and blocking fuel flow causing the bike to just quit. When we pulled the pet cock the screen was filled with small bits of tank liner. After it stalled, on a full tank, I switched to reserve and it started and ran.

I also had the fuel vent issue but this was a result of a new cap and a repaint that blocked air flow. I backed the cap off a half turn and that was solved. I removed the white vent in the cap and that solved it permenantly.

a bad interpretation of Occam’s razor is the simplest explanation is preferable to one that is more complex. For me it is KISS. “ keep it simple stupid”.
Good Luck. Let us know.
Thanks Pddain I'll be checking that today petcock and checking cap , I tried listening to the tank for a vacuum sound but my bike is so loud I couldn't hear shit, so you keep your petcock on resv permanently ? To be honest I've been getting good advise from these brothers some electrical some fuel and like you said first things first and the simplest.. Again thank you
 

Jerome Yee

Member
Hi, I had American Ironhorse Slammer 2003 many years ago and had similar problem with it. My case was, that number plate lighting wire inside of swingarm was in short circuit. This caused overheating of the main fuse ( automatic ) and after the some riding it switched off whole bike. Then I waited for couple minutes I could start engine again and drive some kilometers until the next shut down.
Hi, I had American Ironhorse Slammer 2003 many years ago and had similar problem with it. My case was, that number plate lighting wire inside of swingarm was in short circuit. This caused overheating of the main fuse ( automatic ) and after the some riding it switched off whole bike. Then I waited for couple minutes I could start engine again and drive some kilometers until the next shut down.
Oh shit sounds just like it except I don't have to wait any time to restart it, she fires right up and goes for a bit, I have to really turn up the rpms and feather the clutch to get going..I guess I'll be getting education on the mechanics of repairing bikes cause I have no idea where the number plate inside the lighting wire inside the swingarm is.. Here I come You Tube . Your 2003 Slammer did it have the same S&S motor 107? Mine is the Outlaw and was wondering what the difference is ? Hey Thanks Brother..
 

Pddain

PHTM II
Supporting Member
Thanks Pddain I'll be checking that today petcock and checking cap , I tried listening to the tank for a vacuum sound but my bike is so loud I couldn't hear shit, so you keep your petcock on resv permanently ? To be honest I've been getting good advise from these brothers some electrical some fuel and like you said first things first and the simplest.. Again thank you

No. I pulled the tank and had it re-lined, cleaned out the petcock athe problem went away.
 

Jerome Yee

Member
Hi, I had American Ironhorse Slammer 2003 many years ago and had similar problem with it. My case was, that number plate lighting wire inside of swingarm was in short circuit. This caused overheating of the main fuse ( automatic ) and after the some riding it switched off whole bike. Then I waited for couple minutes I could start engine again and drive some kilometers until the next shut down.
[/QU
I wrote a long ass reply and it looks like lt
disappeared so if you get another one don't trip, So I basically said that I have no idea where the number plate lighting wire inside the swing arm is.. The only difference between your situation is I can start up right away after the stall, she'll fire right up and if I keep the RPMS up high
and ride the clutch I can a couple blocks.
I guess You Tube here I come ill find where the swing arm and lightning wire is at..
I also asked about your Slammer did it have the S&S 107 ? My bike is the Outlaw and I'm just learning everything I can about AIH .
Thanks Brother.
 

Pddain

PHTM II
Supporting Member
Requires spinning the tank with drywall screws inside to clean out the old liner and spinning to apply the sealer. Carswell Dragons Blood gas tank sealer was used so I could see inside. Caswell provides complete instructions. Not sure you need to go this far but thought you would like the info.

cost wise, I did not get a direct quote. All wrapped into a bigger job. If you have a way to spin the tank, this even I could do.

799F9B01-F452-4D2A-8649-CD9421A740D9.jpeg
 

Jerome Yee

Member
Let's say what it's not:
1. coil
2. switch
3. spark unit
4. processor black box
5. carb
6. plugs
7. loose wires
8. bad ground

Let's narrow it down to something usually being one thing on the runs-heats up-stops running. Are we talking about a good clutch lever when cold and a lever goes to the grip is the center nut backing out, is the same pattern for the black box to turn into a brick? Or is this your heat cycle of the bike stopped on me, had it cool down and started again kind of scenario?

So is this the sign of a processor on its way out, or the sensor having a heat stroke, minus 4 LOL.

When I left the house the carb, coil, spark unit, wires, ground, is the switch going on and putt-putt to the gas station I go. Tank is [especially] topped off and we are talking within feet if not yards of stalling due to non-venting at the cap. The carb/coil/unit/plugs lit that bike off again is a clean carb if it idles/starts right up, one kick if not a push of the button in a 1/4 of a second, sans a one kick bike in other words... No cleaning needed.


Receipt wise, I do not find a fast starting bike as a carb needing cleaning. Say yes it starts like right now and you get your carb clean money back. Why? Takes 3 clean holes to act as one start/idle. Lose 1 circuit = Hard starting.

Brake job looks somewhat reasonable... never changed a set so I have no clue. Say diagnostic time is spending a quick hour to determine what? That should have been punched in for time in/time off the diagnostic. Was the very first thing before the wrench is ever turned is... what is the compression? I don't see the numbers is one, and why not kill two birds is the upsell to rebuild the compression back up to spec.

No compression test to continue the work, deduct the time spent chasing tail on the diagnostics. What are the odds I didn't test this one bike and sure enough it was compression. Never started the work on any bike needing valves adjust, general tune up, or anything related to it running, you cover your ass first before you call the customer to proceed, or it's not worth the rebuild and all that pile of shit that the service manager took in feeding a crew of 3 on the slow time.

What is known in the industry is a "Comeback." Yeah, I rode it twice. No, you lapped the block twice, and not thermodynamically set the part to its peak heat range... The pulse generator/the cam sensor/the crank sensor/the I make AC out the wire jobber and all that nomenclature describing... sounds like?

And to be fair, that bill looks somewhat reasonable, nothing showing a red flag to me, sans your answer to the fast start, now knowing 3 open circuits were the cause of the bike starting via one kick... especially electronic ignition in play.
Have finally got call from shop, they installed new ignition Ultima, don't know if they're very good 270.00 for it also labor cost, any way dude checked petcock and inline filter, After I dropped the bike off and told him about it dying on me and starting right back up but continue to die he said he'd go over everything, then I got the call next day saying my ignition was bad so I gave him the ok to replace, they only had Ultima ignitions so I didn't have choice, I asked him about dual or single and he advised me it would be better single fire. Have you ever heard of Pengrove motorcycle in Santa Rosa. Any Insight Seven?
 

Sven

Well-Known Member
Ign wise I'm not worried about its dependability. I'm more concerned they just threw parts at it to see if you field test it farther and no comeback on their part as the diagnosis was solved.

What I've come across here are basically 3 variables:
1. Crank sensor. The common occurrence between these 3 are: runs-stops-runs again.
2. Your ignition system has entered the list. Shop call was ign and not crank sensor? Kind of makes me worried not too many spark units fail around here. So show the shop this thread so they understand they threw a part at it and hope it sticks to the wall.
3. And then there is gas cap venting. This too is a run and stall, starts running again. So when the shop said they'd look more into it, my thinking is, 'oh crap it still stalled with the new ignition. Shit, it's the gas venting. Let's just say it's the spark unit and say nothing about the venting that kept stopping the engine.

See how it's a covers your ass throwing parts at it, and that sure eliminated any kind of stalling. So onto the next variable once a good know part is in the loop. Here was my environment. Had a great service manager that would kick my ass in shape. His deal was no complaints because he loved seeing those factory plaques sent for top of the line service. That meant zero comebacks or the slot is open for the better mechanic.

Anytime I had a comeback it was not my work but customer wants a freebee, or some communication glitch between the service writer and what was said. That brought out my competitive sprit of a challenge not to have a comeback, and for years I kept him happy.

And most independents are pretty sharp mechanically wise so say he nailed it the first time calling the next day, say, and it was the ignition and nothing else. Then you found a good reliable shop. Especially now this being a fast communication on the net, he'll sink his business, right?

Only that test ride home and the weekend/daily run will soon pan out to get you that answer.

____________________________________________________________
Dual vs. Single? I'd rather hear someone talk about speakers and using a dual or single setup. I have no clue why. I rather talk the walk of the electrical flow test. Cleaner curve goes the single? Can't be the coiling inside, right? Duel spark leads, mirrored copper wraps as the balance. Load both wire wise to fire, same volts thrown at the spark. Wire it up single wise, did we change the coil balance? No. Same volts to the plug. Guess is ignition curve frequency interference/backwash? Again, I have no clue.

If this is the 3 wire studs out of the dual coil leads? There is your single out/dual out. Didn't read the wiring up, but man, I like this little programmer. RPM cutter so you don't float the valve. Curve speeder upper with VOES or not. Pretty funny about that VOES theory as to how the curve and that purple wire walk in theory is so easy to explain. I believe they've got it wrong as an on/off switch. That wafer inside the the VOES hasn't changed a suck since it was first designed and improved doing the same analog deal and analog does not on/off LOL, hello?
 

Jerome Yee

Member
Ign wise I'm not worried about its dependability. I'm more concerned they just threw parts at it to see if you field test it farther and no comeback on their part as the diagnosis was solved.

What I've come across here are basically 3 variables:
1. Crank sensor. The common occurrence between these 3 are: runs-stops-runs again.
2. Your ignition system has entered the list. Shop call was ign and not crank sensor? Kind of makes me worried not too many spark units fail around here. So show the shop this thread so they understand they threw a part at it and hope it sticks to the wall.
3. And then there is gas cap venting. This too is a run and stall, starts running again. So when the shop said they'd look more into it, my thinking is, 'oh crap it still stalled with the new ignition. Shit, it's the gas venting. Let's just say it's the spark unit and say nothing about the venting that kept stopping the engine.

See how it's a covers your ass throwing parts at it, and that sure eliminated any kind of stalling. So onto the next variable once a good know part is in the loop. Here was my environment. Had a great service manager that would kick my ass in shape. His deal was no complaints because he loved seeing those factory plaques sent for top of the line service. That meant zero comebacks or the slot is open for the better mechanic.

Anytime I had a comeback it was not my work but customer wants a freebee, or some communication glitch between the service writer and what was said. That brought out my competitive sprit of a challenge not to have a comeback, and for years I kept him happy.

And most independents are pretty sharp mechanically wise so say he nailed it the first time calling the next day, say, and it was the ignition and nothing else. Then you found a good reliable shop. Especially now this being a fast communication on the net, he'll sink his business, right?

Only that test ride home and the weekend/daily run will soon pan out to get you that answer.

____________________________________________________________
Dual vs. Single? I'd rather hear someone talk about speakers and using a dual or single setup. I have no clue why. I rather talk the walk of the electrical flow test. Cleaner curve goes the single? Can't be the coiling inside, right? Duel spark leads, mirrored copper wraps as the balance. Load both wire wise to fire, same volts thrown at the spark. Wire it up single wise, did we change the coil balance? No. Same volts to the plug. Guess is ignition curve frequency interference/backwash? Again, I have no clue.

If this is the 3 wire studs out of the dual coil leads? There is your single out/dual out. Didn't read the wiring up, but man, I like this little programmer. RPM cutter so you don't float the valve. Curve speeder upper with VOES or not. Pretty funny about that VOES theory as to how the curve and that purple wire walk in theory is so easy to explain. I believe they've got it wrong as an on/off switch. That wafer inside the the VOES hasn't changed a suck since it was first designed and improved doing the same analog deal and analog does not on/off LOL, hello?
Thanks Brother I'll be picking her up today and hope it doesn't end up like the last time, two days after picking her up she started doing the same thing, stall and restart.. You had a great manager Seven and it's hard to find mechanics with those high standards cause when you find one you better keep him.. I'll see what he has to say about the cap also.
Again thanks Seven
 

HMAN

Just like to ride
Supporting Member
Thanks Brother I'll be picking her up today and hope it doesn't end up like the last time, two days after picking her up she started doing the same thing, stall and restart.. You had a great manager Seven and it's hard to find mechanics with those high standards cause when you find one you better keep him.. I'll see what he has to say about the cap also.
Again thanks Seven
Just throwing this out there.....its Sven. Not Seven. Easy mistake and I KNOW he has been called way worse.....lol
 
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