... she died on me about a mile from house, same symptoms as before...
Let's say what it's not:
1. coil
2. switch
3. spark unit
4. processor black box
5. carb
6. plugs
7. loose wires
8. bad ground
Let's narrow it down to something usually being one thing on the runs-heats up-stops running. Are we talking about a good clutch lever when cold and a lever goes to the grip is the center nut backing out, is the same pattern for the black box to turn into a brick? Or is this your heat cycle of the bike stopped on me, had it cool down and started again kind of scenario?
So is this the sign of a processor on its way out, or the sensor having a heat stroke, minus 4 LOL.
When I left the house the carb, coil, spark unit, wires, ground, is the switch going on and putt-putt to the gas station I go. Tank is [especially] topped off and we are talking within feet if not yards of stalling due to non-venting at the cap. The carb/coil/unit/plugs lit that bike off again is a clean carb if it idles/starts right up, one kick if not a push of the button in a 1/4 of a second, sans a one kick bike in other words... No cleaning needed.
I'm taking back to shop any idea brother ? This is the work he did
Receipt wise, I do not find a fast starting bike as a carb needing cleaning. Say yes it starts like right now and you get your carb clean money back. Why? Takes 3 clean holes to act as one start/idle. Lose 1 circuit = Hard starting.
Brake job looks somewhat reasonable... never changed a set so I have no clue. Say diagnostic time is spending a quick hour to determine what? That should have been punched in for time in/time off the diagnostic. Was the very first thing before the wrench is ever turned is... what is the compression? I don't see the numbers is one, and why not kill two birds is the upsell to rebuild the compression back up to spec.
No compression test to continue the work, deduct the time spent chasing tail on the diagnostics. What are the odds I didn't test this one bike and sure enough it was compression. Never started the work on any bike needing valves adjust, general tune up, or anything related to it running, you cover your ass first before you call the customer to proceed, or it's not worth the rebuild and all that pile of shit that the service manager took in feeding a crew of 3 on the slow time.
What is known in the industry is a "Comeback." Yeah, I rode it twice. No, you lapped the block twice, and not thermodynamically set the part to its peak heat range... The pulse generator/the cam sensor/the crank sensor/the I make AC out the wire jobber and all that nomenclature describing... sounds like?
And to be fair, that bill looks somewhat reasonable, nothing showing a red flag to me, sans your answer to the fast start, now knowing 3 open circuits were the cause of the bike starting via one kick... especially electronic ignition in play.