Have you physically witnessed spark at the plug? Say yes, because I'm assuming you do have spark? Compression seems low, especially needing a compression loss trigger to start it. Wouldn't need those pop off's at the head to start 140 pee yes I said if spark, it's comp. Can't be the carb if it fires the other cylinder. Only think left if fuel and spark is the kinetic to build heat.
Find the working number for comp. Say it gives a range of numbers [for argue sake] of between 186 - 225 psi. 185 means breakout, thus the rebuild/out of running spec/limit of performance... think.
Yes it has sparkHave you physically witnessed spark at the plug? Say yes, because I'm assuming you do have spark? Compression seems low, especially needing a compression loss trigger to start it. Wouldn't need those pop off's at the head to start 140 pee yes I said if spark, it's comp. Can't be the carb if it fires the other cylinder. Only think left if fuel and spark is the kinetic to build heat.
Find the working number for comp. Say it gives a range of numbers [for argue sake] of between 186 - 225 psi. 185 means breakout, thus the rebuild/out of running spec/limit of performance... think.
Tried thatHave you tried moving the plug wire from the front cylinder to the back to see if it will fire ?
Didn't think of that one I will checkIs the compression release stuck open?
Yes it was why I got the new stuffYou should get a spark plug tester to confirm that is your issue. On a duel fire system if the front cylinder is firing but not the rear, swap the wires and plugs to see if the problem moves. You need fuel, ignition (timing) and compression for a cylinder to fire. Your getting fuel so Ignition and compression are left.
Did you have the problem before you installed all the new parts??
What should compression be on a S&S 107Have you physically witnessed spark at the plug? Say yes, because I'm assuming you do have spark? Compression seems low, especially needing a compression loss trigger to start it. Wouldn't need those pop off's at the head to start 140 pee yes I said if spark, it's comp. Can't be the carb if it fires the other cylinder. Only think left if fuel and spark is the kinetic to build heat.
Find the working number for comp. Say it gives a range of numbers [for argue sake] of between 186 - 225 psi. 185 means breakout, thus the rebuild/out of running spec/limit of performance... think.
Did thatDouble check your wires and set up from the ignition to the coil.
The front plug is showing signs of rich air or fuel mixture and the rear literally looks new stillI am completely stumped. The rear cylinder won't fire. I have put on a new coil, new ignition module, new plugs, new wires, compression is 140 on the rear 135 on the front. Anyone have any ideas here cause I don't know what else to try?
The coil it had was a single fire coil and I changed it out to a dual fire but both were doing the same thingThe front plug is showing signs of rich air or fuel mixture and the rear literally looks new still
this is the classic example of "what changed?"Thank you all for your help, it was the gasket on the intake got twisted up when it was reinstalled. It fired right up both cylinders after fixing it.
