Once in awhile I still get a big clunk from my starter. Is there a problem?

Energy One

BWG56

Guru
But I suspect it works the same and just for 1 second. You should be able to wire to green starter post directly bypassing the EHC completely.
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Your correct about the green starter wire, however they won't engage until you hit the start button just like they do now, but you don't know until you hit the start button if their going to work or BANG and 19 outta 20 times they work. If they had their own switch you could flip it and check them to be sure their down before hitting the start button, I don't mind doing this every time I start it because now I cringe every time I hit the start button thinking is this the one that's going to bang. I started pulling things apart and I think the connectors are under the tank, at least I'm hoping they don't go straight to the EHC, so I will remove that tomorrow or so to see.
 

Th3InfamousI

Administrator
Staff member
Your correct about the green starter wire, however they won't engage until you hit the start button just like they do now, but you don't know until you hit the start button if their going to work or BANG and 19 outta 20 times they work. If they had their own switch you could flip it and check them to be sure their down before hitting the start button, I don't mind doing this every time I start it because now I cringe every time I hit the start button thinking is this the one that's going to bang.
Well I guess my thought is wire to starter and If they don't go down then replace them with ones that really work.

Your still gonna have issues when you get gas as you do now it's too hot to put your finger on them

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BWG56

Guru
Well I guess my thought is wire to starter and If they don't go down then replace them with ones that really work.

Your still gonna have issues when you get gas as you do now it's too hot to put your finger on them

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Replacing them is one way to go if you feel like tearing the top of the rockers off.
As far as being hot, I do it now when its hot, the rubber is there and it's not hot for the second it takes, the rear is right out there and the front, as long as I keep the back of my hand against the underside of the tank I don't hit the head and the few times I have touched it there was never a burn.
 

Th3InfamousI

Administrator
Staff member
Not if you have your gloves on like you should.


Don't mean to preach, but if you ever lay one down I'll bet you won't ride without gloves again. OK maybe I did mean to preach. :D
I wear fingerless gloves and no helmet.

Living on the edge

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badyellowvette

Active Member
One thing I did try was unhook the green wire from the starter and hit the "on" button then the starter. The CR's should go down with out starting the bike.

Here is the procedure for wiring the RC's to the starter as messaged to me by CCRider when I broke my starter earlier this year that I haven't done yet.

It's not that bad. You need to pull your tank the right side cover is off already. Cut the connectors off for the compression release on the bike side. Splice both power wires together and both ground wires together coming from the connector to single wires. Run the wires down the backbone inside the cover. Install a in line 15 amp fuse then cut the green wire going to the starter solenoid. Splice the wire coming from the fuse with the green wire then run a single wire from the splice to the solenoid. Run your ground wire to a ground stud or battery. I did this because as long as your finger is on the start button the CR stay open.
Going through the ECH they stay open for 1.3 seconds then they close.


I was kind of hoping to find the wires under the seat to avoid taking off the tank.
 
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Th3InfamousI

Administrator
Staff member
One thing I did try was unhook the green wire from the starter and hit the "on" button then the starter. The CR's should go down with out starting the bike.

Here is the procedure for wiring the RC's to the starter as messaged to me by CCRider when I broke my starter earlier this year that I haven't done yet.

It's not that bad. You need to pull your tank the right side cover is off already. Cut the connectors off for the compression release on the bike side. Splice both power wires together and both ground wires together coming from the connector to single wires. Run the wires down the backbone inside the cover. Install a in line 15 amp fuse then cut the green wire going to the starter solenoid. Splice the wire coming from the fuse with the green wire then run a single wire from the splice to the solenoid. Run your ground wire to a ground stud or battery. I did this because as long as your finger is on the start button the CR stay open.
Going through the ECH they stay open for 1.3 seconds then they close.
It's not that bad. You need to pull your tank the right side cover is off already. Cut the connectors off for the compression release on the bike side. Splice both power wires together and both ground wires together coming from the connector to single wires. Run the wires down the backbone inside the cover. Install a in line 15 amp fuse then cut the green wire going to the starter solenoid. Splice the wire coming from the fuse with the green wire then run a single wire from the splice to the solenoid. Run your ground wire to a ground stud or battery. I did this because as long as your finger is on the start button the CR stay open.
Going through the ECH they stay open for 1.3 seconds then they close.

I was kind of hoping to find the wires under the seat to avoid taking off the tank.
I'm looking at the wiring diagram and not sure why you can't take B29 and B45 green wires at the controller and run to starter? Just make sure you got the right ones.

I don't think you need to the tank off nor reroute the ground. Although a dedicated ground wouldn't hurt and adding a fuse is a good idea.

Someone got a copy of the PDM diagram?

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Rufus1

Member
I had the same problem. I tested the CR's and they seem to be working. Still did it. I rewired the CR's to the starter direct. Still did it. I replaced the CR's. Still did it. So in my opinion, if you test them and they are moving then that is not the problem. I ended up living with it. Later I had a oil pump issue and deciced to do a engine rebuild. I removed the engine from the bike. which included the primary system, clutch and starter. engine was rebuilt. I put it back together. I got alittle over 1000 miles on bike. It has not clunked at all. Now I'm not saying you have to rebuild your motor. You may want to check your primary chain. I installed a auto chain adjuster. I would also would remove the compensator, clean it, inspect it, reinstall. Do the same to the clutch. and make sure you retorque both components. Another thing that could cause the clunking startes is if your ignition timing is too far advanced. Everything i suggested that you do is what i did putting the motor back into the bike. so I can't narrow down what caused it. but I'm not experiencing htat problem anymore. hope this helps.
 

badyellowvette

Active Member
I wish I would have known about the compensator spring when I had my primary off to fix my starter. I only have 6000 miles on the bike.
 

Th3InfamousI

Administrator
Staff member
I wish I would have known about the compensator spring when I had my primary off to fix my starter. I only have 6000 miles on the bike.
These bikes don't have compensators just front engine sprockets. So it's good you didn't know cause you wouldn't have found it. :) haha They were on 04 for sure and probably earlier.

I have a compensator on my 04 but my 07 is a straight sprocket.

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badyellowvette

Active Member
I'm looking at the wiring diagram and not sure why you can't take B29 and B45 green wires at the controller and run to starter? Just make sure you got the right ones.

I don't think you need to the tank off nor reroute the ground. Although a dedicated ground wouldn't hurt and adding a fuse is a good idea.

Someone got a copy of the PDM diagram?

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Have you looked any further into doing this Eric?
 

badyellowvette

Active Member
I'm looking at the wiring diagram and not sure why you can't take B29 and B45 green wires at the controller and run to starter? Just make sure you got the right ones.

I don't think you need to the tank off nor reroute the ground. Although a dedicated ground wouldn't hurt and adding a fuse is a good idea.

Someone got a copy of the PDM diagram?

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Where exactly do you find B29 and B45 green wires. I'm looking at the bike, I'm afraid to start cutting and look for them. The controller is plugged into the top of the EHC? Meaning I have two controllers?
 

Th3InfamousI

Administrator
Staff member


Not sure if you can see this I'm on my phone if you can't see it clearly just search 08 wiring diagram

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badyellowvette

Active Member
I studied the wiring diagram from Bearman and seen the two wires and grounds, but finding them on the bike is another thing.
 

bearman

Active Member
Where exactly do you find B29 and B45 green wires......
The EFI wiring diagram doesn't have the "Harness Connector Pin Locations" on them but they should be the same as on the carb diagram in the lower right. The "B" (in B29) is for the EHC "B" connector, distinguishable by the fact that there are no big wires in that one. only the "A" connector has the big wires.

Starting with the white wire as #1 count to 29 and then 45. Careful, #28 is also green.

I will include the 2007 wiring diagram here because the neither of the 2008 is easy to read when you blow it up. I think it is mostly the same as the 2008 carb.
 

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Raywood

The Pirate
Staff member
Calendar Participant
Troop Supporter
My manual has pin locations on separate pages at the end of the chapter

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