Now it appears I have a clutch issue!

Energy One
cmalin

cmalin

Member
Alright guys,

Y'all were tremendous help getting the starter issued worked out, now I have a new issue.

After I got the starter put back on I took the bike for a cruise today and drove atleast 100 miles and started and stopped the bike a dozen times or so with no issue. I was headed to autozone to get some supplies to fix my broken electrical tray covers and I hit a pot hole going about 30. This was not a ordinary pot hole, it was HUGE! and I felt every bit of it.


I drove for probably about a quarter mile before coming to a stop light and went to pull the clutch in and the bike kept creeping along and would not stop. The clutch was not doing anything. I was able to get it in neutral by giving just a touch of throttle and it went into neutral. When I went to take off The back stalled as I downshifted and let the clutch out. the tach flashed twice with all of the RPM lights on. Sitting there looking like a idiot I was able to get the bike started and it would take off in first but the clutch was rather useless. It was a 3 mile trip home and every time I would pull the clutch in I would have to give it a little throttle to get it to shift into gear. It was weird because while moving the clutch acted like it would work just a little bit but not enough to shift smoothly and I could never take off from a light without just having to drop it into first and go.


I know this is a weird issue, but I tried searching around and I have no idea. Even with the bike off if I try to pull the clutch lever it is very stiff, seems more stiff than normal. Bike is almost impossible to get into neutral.


So where should I start?
 
KaptinAmerika

KaptinAmerika

Guru
Gremlins are following you for sure bro
Go through your clutch cable and fittings down and into the clutch housing first and make sure nothing got knocked out of whack or broken.
If that all looks good then you may have to go back in to your primary and go through your clutch and carrier.
 
cmalin

cmalin

Member
Do you think if I were to follow the clutch adjustment procedures and tried readjusting the clutch it may help? the clutch lever is very very stiff.
 
cmalin

cmalin

Member
Just me the bike cool off and the clutch lever has tension and still very hard to pull but the clutch seems to not be engaging at all. Could it be a broken clutch actuator?
 
cmalin

cmalin

Member
Alright I readjusted the clutch half a dozen times and the lever and tension all feel great. However when I put it in first " the bike off of course" and I pull in the clutch the bike will not roll free. It acts as if the clutch is not engaging at all. However after I adjusted the clutch I could find neutral a lot easier and shift between gears no problem.


I am completely lost. I was planning on going on a Easter ride but it doesn't look like that'll happen. I would prefer to not have to tow it to strokers and pay the hourly rate if it is something I could fix.
 
cmalin

cmalin

Member
I also took the pushrod out from the clutch actuator and took the cover off to verify the bearings still had plenty of grease and wanted to make sure that was still good.

Everything checked out okay, which leads me to believe it is something on the other side "primary side" of the bike causing this issue.

Not too sure why but everything about the primary and clutch intimidates me. I would rather rebuild a motor than touch a transmission/gears on any vehicle.
 
cmalin

cmalin

Member
No I have not. I figured with the bike off the clutch should still be able to engage and allow the bike to roll freely, unless there is some sort of goofy electronics. I had to take the exhaust off to adjust the clutch and pull the cover off. Figured I would leave it off until I could figure this out, just in case I had to do something on that side of the bike again.
 
KaptinAmerika

KaptinAmerika

Guru
It Sounds To Me Like Your CarRier Has Probably Cracked
Leaves It Feeling LikeThE Clutch is Engaging BUt What's Happening Is The CarRier Is Just Flexing
 
cmalin

cmalin

Member
By carrier are you talkinga bout the bearing carrier? I have been reading where some folks are changing to a bandit clutch with billet carrier. Would that work for me? I am going to drain the primary tomorrow and see what I can find
 
S

Sven

Well-Known Member
1. Lube clutch cable.
2. Run any threads home or hide them, meaning, to shrink the outside cable so the inner cable has all slack away from the outer cable, right?
3. If the push rod screw wants more movement, it takes up the slack at that outer cable as it runs the inner cable farther into the transmission housing. Make sense so far?
4. The adjust screw is going to push the cable towards the back wheel. See how the arm is going to move that direction, because the ramp is going to run the balls in the deepest pockets of the ball ramp? So as soon as you touch the lever, the ramp rides up on the balls sooner. Got that so far?
5. We want our hand on the clutch lever taking up the slack, our screwdriver on the set screw, turn it in so we can feel the lever start to move out, we have the right direction moving the push rod at the ramp, the ramp rides deep into the balls till the lever has no more movement... We understand we are not so intimidated as to how the clutch parts work?
6. We then back out the screw, turn it back in lightly seating it so we know it has stopped the ramp from going any deeper is we are home. Any more you begin to push the plates out. We find that lightly seated position, run the screw back out 1/4 turn for heat expansion and lube purposes. Tighten the set nut and hold the screw from moving in said position.
7. Begin to show threads at the clutch cable until you have a 1/16th inch gap at the clutch perch and clutch lever. Tighten piggyback set nut over the main adjust bolt housing.
8. You did all this to do one thing and that is not to remove the clutch plates. These are the steps for that push rod to ramp adjust and now, place left hand on clutch lever. Place your other hand over the last outside cover of the clutch basket. This is called the pressure plate.
9. Take that 1/16th of an inch slack out of the clutch cable with left hand. Begin to load the pressure plate to move in either direction, meaning, however comfortable you would like to spin the pressure plate away from the clutch basket, you should feel the pressure plate move with less than half the pull away from the perch as opposed to the full throw to the grip.
10. If you feel the pressure plate drag even to the '1/2 way point' of the lever throw = Warp are the friction/steel plates.

Were are we at?
 
KaptinAmerika

KaptinAmerika

Guru
I Happen To Have a Complete Bandit Bruiser System That Was Used All Of 250 Miles. It Was Only RemovEd Because The Owner Did Not Install it correctly S the Owner Thought There Was something Wrong With It
$350 Free Shipping To You
 
cmalin

cmalin

Member
I am debating on pulling the primary cover and checking the clutch to see if it is working, or not.

I am trying to decide if it would be better for me to just take it up to Strokers and have them fix it and pay them or if I could save the money and do it myself.

If I do it myself it looks like I will be getting the Bandit clutch from Kaptinamerika.

Anyone have an idea as to what how long it would take a shop like strokers to do this. I am trying to get a ballpark idea of what it may cost. Or how long it may take someone like me to do it.
 
KaptinAmerika

KaptinAmerika

Guru
The Hardest Part For You Would BE Pressing The Bearing Out Of Your Old CarRier And Into Your New Carrier. Any Shop With A PRess Will Do That For You For 20 Or 30 Bucks. The Rest Is Easy. Be Prepared To Spend A Thousand Dollars If The CarRier Is Bad. Its Not Likely Strokers Will Put Anything Used In So You Will Be Paying Retail.
 
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