Not Charging

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FST954

Member
I have a 04 Ridgeback, The battery voltage will not go past 12.6v I have 30 volts at stator when I rev the bike the voltage does go up to 40 to 50 volts

I just replaced the voltage regulator and still only 12.6v at the battery

There is a relay/breaker under the seat at the input side I only have 12,6 volts

The regulator I just put in is a cycle electric the compufire that I took out had a ground wire attached to the back of it the cycle electric does not, I am not sure if that would be the problem

Any help is appreciated
 
S

Sven

Well-Known Member
Wire look cut anywhere on that other v/reg? That's a possibility if the other wire does not have a black or green wire [usually] for ground.

I'd let the bike idle and now check against these numbers. Breakout means, if at idle you have a 22amp stator and 16 is the low, 19 is book, you may have a 32amp stator and be within spec. Get it? But if you are at 16 on a 19 call, I'd call your stator out of spec, not a new v/reg that is controlling the DC to the battery.

If the relay has 12.6v to each peg, there is no break in the flow, correct? The v/reg if not grounded we question that missing wire, battery is grounded, stator is grounded, v/reg is hot and those wires sort of count as a grounding loop so as to overcharge the battery, but you are seeing no output and the v/reg shows it?

You changed the old v/reg because? "I'm throwing parts at it." So are we saying the old v/reg might be fine if you did not spec the wires of the first v/reg?

http://www.dnlauto.com/pdf/Harley Davidson full wave charging systems.pdf
 
F

FST954

Member
At the input side of the breaker that comes from the VR it is only 12.6V that is why I assumed that was the issue. At the stator it sits at 30V at Idle when I rev up to 4000 rpm it goes up to 60V, that is why I thought it was the VR
 
chacha

chacha

Chaff Your EHC!!
Calendar Participant
Utube a ground continuity test for the stator. Had a similar problem recently and that was the test that failed it.
 
DRBarnhart

DRBarnhart

Insert title here...
FST954 said:
At the input side of the breaker that comes from the VR it is only 12.6V that is why I assumed that was the issue. At the stator it sits at 30V at Idle when I rev up to 4000 rpm it goes up to 60V, that is why I thought it was the VR
Click to expand...
Do you have continuity through the circuit breaker? Are you sure the voltage regulator has a really good, clean ground?

Dennis
 
F

FST954

Member
The ground is what concerns me, on the stock VR it has a pig tail ground coming off the backside of it, on the cycle electric one it does not have a pig tail ground on it
 
francoblay1

francoblay1

The Spaniard
If I am not mistaken the ground on those are in the same bolts-to frame.... make sure they are clean (old locktite maybe) & tight.

:cheers:
 
DRBarnhart

DRBarnhart

Insert title here...
FST954 said:
I just checked and I have continuity from 1 of the plugs from the stator to ground on the engine bolt
Click to expand...
If you mean you have continuity from one of the pins of the stator plug to ground... you have a problem. :down:

Dennis
 
S

Sven

Well-Known Member
DRBarnhart said:
If you mean you have continuity from one of the pins of the stator plug to ground... you have a problem. :down:

Dennis
Click to expand...
Look at this stator's 2 wires.



All this is, is one long wire wrapped around those center cores. Also, there is a coating on the wires. When they lay on each other they do not make contact. This can now send out that AC wave.

2 wires:

My ohm meter wants to swing to infinity as if I touched both meter probes together by themselves. I can now see this single wire having a few variables:

1. What if there is a break in the wire? That is one long wire and if there is a chain broken say, we say this is = Junk.

2. What if there are 3 wires out of the stator? We see it as a 3-phase or 3 separate windings that if one phase is broken as in a wire, there is no longer and equal phasing system = Junk.

3. What if a 3 or 2-phase wire group has the coating getting so hot, it melts the surrounding coating on the other wire it is laying next to and this now is shorting itself = Junk.

4. What if I connect the wire phases to each other, I should have infinity or continue [continuity] is that path from one wire end to the other = Good.

5. What if I connect the wire to ground and see if the ohm meter acts as if I never touched both prongs together, the meter is the reader = Good.

6. WATT if I add up all I did to the wires and it was a simple 2-step:
a. A phasing wire is either short to ground or it is not.
b. A phasing wire to wire shows a complete circle so says the ohm meter.
c. A is 2 directions in the AC of it.
d. A rotor with magnet may lower the AC output. But I always see a stator wire bringing back the output, more than replacing a magnet.

7. Electricity is all about 'balance' and if one wire is not equal in output = Junk.
 
S

Sven

Well-Known Member
francoblay1 said:
:iagree: there is a need for a better brief on the checks done... I am :confused: too...

....
Click to expand...
Here's your debrief, franco

All this is, is blah, blah, blah... = Junk.

Denny,

Your one liners are no help. Give a debrief or sit down. No offense.
 
S

Sven

Well-Known Member
DRBarnhart said:
It can't be said any clearer than my "one liner" Sven...

And, no worries Sven, I'm not offended if you don't understand me... :up:

Dennis
Click to expand...
Well, I'd like to see you explain heart surgery with one line. :roll: No offense.

:hi:
 
F

FST954

Member
I appreciate all of the input it looks like it is the stator I will be ordering one from Cycle Electric tomorrow along with the rotor, I saw a good write up in the How To section on replacing it and it does not look to painful

I will update everyone when I am done

Thanks again for all of the feedback
 
F

FST954

Member
Just an update, the rotor was shot it had no teeth left on it, I went ahead and ordered the Compufire kit which had the stator, rotor and VR all went well and the bike is up and running I appreciate all of the help and advice. For those of you who are not mechanically inclined it was a fairly simple job. There is a good write up in the How To Section on replacing the stator and rotor
 
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