NO POWER! At All!!!!

Pero Maldito

Texas Rider
Yes, I checked the one fuse that the bike has. Its good.

I just dont get it!
Can the EHC really do this?
I mean, why no power?
I can make a car start by jumping the starter solenoid, or by passing the key cylinder, several other ways. If one thing is not working something else is.

Why would a bike be built, especially carbureted, to where a costly item controlles the entire bike? Even to give power to head lights and other things that have no need for a computer?

This really sucks! Especially at a time like this.
But i guess that where that saying comes from "When it rains, it pours!".
 

RRRUFF

Well-Known Member
Pero, when you say no power. Do you mean when you turn on the key switch, no light or anything or do you mean no power to the starter when you hit the starter button? The EHC can cause this but if you are getting no power at all the key switch can also cause this.
 

bigdogtech01

Well-Known Member
did he check the MAXI fuse again maybe it blew some how ? i dont really remember if he has one or the beaker still just thinking it may still be somthing little before 500 for ehc.
He has the MAXI Fuse, if he has no power at all then it is either this or the EHC. Did he connect all the wires to the battery and to the correct locations? Positive to positive, negative to negative?
Once you get your power back and are able to turn the bike over try doing a starter draw test. Hook your Digital volt meter up to your battery with your bike off, see what your voltage is. Then turn your key on, hit your starter button and look at your volt meter, it should not drop below 10 VDC(volts)
If it does then you need a new starter.
 

Pero Maldito

Texas Rider
Found this bit of info. Can anyone tell me what it means? Can this cause me to have a dead bike?

Also, please everyone know - I turn the key and i have no power, like as if there is no battery.




"There is a third fault condition that .the starter can have that is different and it can easily be fixed
if recognized. Because the startct is an inductive load, it has properties that can cause the EHC to
think that the startcr is bad when actually it is not. Wen the starter motor is not rotating it is n
virti~al short circuit and the solenoid coil uses this circuit to get enough current to pull thc
solenoid plun~er in to make contact. Once the solenoid plunger makes contact inside the
solenoid then zhc starter rnotor is no longer a part of the solenoid circuit. Under normal operation
when the starter button is depressed, the currcnt from the El IC to the solenoid rises to about 40
amps and as soon as the solenoid plunger makes contact with the two copper Iugs inside the
solenoid housing the current level drops to about 10 amps. The prob1en.l arises when the plungcr
does not make contact to the copper lugs and when that happens, the current lcvel stays at 40
amps and caslscs the thermal fuse in the start circuit (see diagram 13) overheat and shut ofT
which is what it is suppose to do for protection. This may cause a fault but it is neither a short
nor an opcn.
There are several things that can cause this but the most carnmon are thc copper contacts are too
pitted or dirty to niake good contact. Also, if the nut that holds the battery cable on the startcr
motor terminal is over torqued, it causcs one of the copper lugs to move: and it is enough to such
that lthe plunger will not make contact. When working with the starter cable, make sure and do
NOT over torque the ntit and also using a lock washer under the nut can causc the same problem."
 

bigdogtech01

Well-Known Member
Found this bit of info. Can anyone tell me what it means? Can this cause me to have a dead bike?

Also, please everyone know - I turn the key and i have no power, like as if there is no battery.




"There is a third fault condition that .the starter can have that is different and it can easily be fixed
if recognized. Because the startct is an inductive load, it has properties that can cause the EHC to
think that the startcr is bad when actually it is not. Wen the starter motor is not rotating it is n
virti~al short circuit and the solenoid coil uses this circuit to get enough current to pull thc
solenoid plun~er in to make contact. Once the solenoid plunger makes contact inside the
solenoid then zhc starter rnotor is no longer a part of the solenoid circuit. Under normal operation
when the starter button is depressed, the currcnt from the El IC to the solenoid rises to about 40
amps and as soon as the solenoid plunger makes contact with the two copper Iugs inside the
solenoid housing the current level drops to about 10 amps. The prob1en.l arises when the plungcr
does not make contact to the copper lugs and when that happens, the current lcvel stays at 40
amps and caslscs the thermal fuse in the start circuit (see diagram 13) overheat and shut ofT
which is what it is suppose to do for protection. This may cause a fault but it is neither a short
nor an opcn.
There are several things that can cause this but the most carnmon are thc copper contacts are too
pitted or dirty to niake good contact. Also, if the nut that holds the battery cable on the startcr
motor terminal is over torqued, it causcs one of the copper lugs to move: and it is enough to such
that lthe plunger will not make contact. When working with the starter cable, make sure and do
NOT over torque the ntit and also using a lock washer under the nut can causc the same problem."
All this mumbo jumbo stuff will not cause your bike to have no power at all. Did you check that MAXI FUSE Yet!!!
- Start checking power on your wires. Start with your battery and go from there. Power to your Maxi Fuse, power out? Power to your key switch, power out?
-Start tracing continuity. Continuity from Battery to MAXI fuse? Wires to the Key Switch? Unplug your key switch, put your Ohms meter on each end of the Ignition switch wires, do you have Continuity? If you do then the switch is most likely good. But if the switch has a lot of play in it and it clicks (turns on) @ 5* or 50* You want a new style that turns on and off @ 5 degrees of straight up and down.
 

mobsta

Well-Known Member
he had power when this all started.would lose power when he hit start.he also had click,click at first.when he disconnected cables at reinstalled he had power again.now with new batt theres no power.hm:bang:
 
All this mumbo jumbo stuff will not cause your bike to have no power at all. Did you check that MAXI FUSE Yet!!!
- Start checking power on your wires. Start with your battery and go from there. Power to your Maxi Fuse, power out? Power to your key switch, power out?
-Start tracing continuity. Continuity from Battery to MAXI fuse? Wires to the Key Switch? Unplug your key switch, put your Ohms meter on each end of the Ignition switch wires, do you have Continuity? If you do then the switch is most likely good. But if the switch has a lot of play in it and it clicks (turns on) @ 5* or 50* You want a new style that turns on and off @ 5 degrees of straight up and down.
This is your quote from another thread:

Your MAXI fuse or main circuit breaker will not protect your EHC. The EHC receives power directly from the battery. The only thing the Maxi fuse or circuit breaker is hooked into is your charging system, Voltage Regulator (hooked between Battery positive and voltage regulator) Nothing else should be hooked into this.
tech,
Sorry, not trying to be an azz or argue, but these statements you've made again sound like a contradiction.

So what "does" the Maxi Fuse protect exactly?
And what operations does it eliminate from working properly if blown?

Thanks for straightening all of us out here! :2thumbs:

dead :cheers:
 

Pero Maldito

Texas Rider
TheDeadOne - I sent you a pm. Whenever is best for you I am here.

refroggy - I had sent you a pm yesterday.

Thanks guys.

Oh, still no power!
 

BikersDream

We build what you Dream!
TheDeadOne - I sent you a pm. Whenever is best for you I am here.

refroggy - I had sent you a pm yesterday.

Thanks guys.

Oh, still no power!
If time was money you would have spent $1000.00 dollars or more on this issue. Replace the EHC and go ride!!!!

Creditcard handy?????? Ive have two EHC's in stock.
 

bigdogtech01

Well-Known Member
This is your quote from another thread:



tech,
Sorry, not trying to be an azz or argue, but these statements you've made again sound like a contradiction.

So what "does" the Maxi Fuse protect exactly?
And what operations does it eliminate from working properly if blown?

Thanks for straightening all of us out here! :2thumbs:

dead :cheers:
THe Maxi Fuse or Circuit Breaker protects your bike from a short in the charging system. If you look at the wires hooked into your Maxi fuse or circuit breaker there are only two wires. One wire from your battery and the other to your voltage regulator. Yes I am sorry for making anyone confused about what it does and how it is hooked into the bike. I misspoke about the bike not having any power if it had a blown fuse or bad circuit breaker. This guy most likely needs an EHC. I think along with many others here feel this posting has gone on long enough, time to spend the money on either taking it into a bigdog dealer for further testing or spend the money on a new EHC.
 

Raywood

The Pirate
Staff member
Calendar Participant
Troop Supporter
THe Maxi Fuse or Circuit Breaker protects your bike from a short in the charging system. If you look at the wires hooked into your Maxi fuse or circuit breaker there are only two wires. One wire from your battery and the other to your voltage regulator. Yes I am sorry for making anyone confused about what it does and how it is hooked into the bike. I misspoke about the bike not having any power if it had a blown fuse or bad circuit breaker. This guy most likely needs an EHC. I think along with many others here feel this posting has gone on long enough, time to spend the money on either taking it into a bigdog dealer for further testing or spend the money on a new EHC.
And how did we eliminate the battery as the culprit? :flag:
 
Bad starter #1 so far this winter! :down:

dead :cheers:


Edit: Wrong, Dumb Azz!(me)....DUH!!! :loony::crazy:

:lol::lol::lol::lol::lol::lol::lol:
 
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Bad starter #1 so far this winter! :down:

dead :cheers:
I was wrong again! :down:

If you remember, Pero got to where he had nothing electrical working at all, even after disconning the battery to reset the EHC.
So via PMs, We disconnected the starter wires "only" from his battery and, "Sha-Zam"! Everything else came back to life. Starter Short? That's what I thought!......WRONG! :nono:
Pero had the starter checked out. They said that it worked fine for them but replaced the brushes and the plunger anyway! Now I'm really :confused:...WTF?
So today Pero reinstalled the starter, connected all the wiring and tries it again. He said he got only one revolution of the motor then everything went dead again! This time nothing would reset and come on, even with the EHC being the only thing connected to the battery. Still Nothing! :loony::loony:
Now I'm thinking that some of you guys might be right previously! I'm thinking now, that the main breaker within the EHC has finally gone "completely bad"! I'm thinking that is was showing signs of failure by tripping when the start button was depressed and the solenoid trigger wire started drawing current through the EHC!

Other input!

dead :cheers:
 

Little-Boo

Well-Known Member
Troop Supporter
I was wrong again! :down:

If you remember, Pero got to where he had nothing electrical working at all, even after disconning the battery to reset the EHC.
So via PMs, We disconnected the starter wires "only" from his battery and, "Sha-Zam"! Everything else came back to life. Starter Short? That's what I thought!......WRONG! :nono:
Pero had the starter checked out. They said that it worked fine for them but replaced the brushes and the plunger anyway! Now I'm really :confused:...WTF?
So today Pero reinstalled the starter, connected all the wiring and tries it again. He said he got only one revolution of the motor then everything went dead again! This time nothing would reset and come on, even with the EHC being the only thing connected to the battery. Still Nothing! :loony::loony:
Now I'm thinking that some of you guys might be right previously! I'm thinking now, that the main breaker within the EHC has finally gone "completely bad"! I'm thinking that is was showing signs of failure by tripping when the start button was depressed and the solenoid trigger wire started drawing current through the EHC!

Other input!

dead :cheers:
I think you are right, after jump starting the Dog every other day :eek: the EHC finally said OK Pero I am going to pucker up and will not let any shit get past me. :lol:

Carlos
 
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RRRUFF

Well-Known Member
Yea the jump starting is what made me side with the EHC. These things are a sensitive as a fat girl in a bikini.:D
 
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