new seal...same leak...

Energy One

bowman

Member
The leak is back. I'm stumped. Vent is good, seal looks good, actually everything I can think of seems good, but heres what I noticed. Seal fits tighter to the top of the shaft spacer than it does to the bottom. I wondered if maybe bearing was bad, but it runs true. No play at all. spin the shaft 360 degrees(slowly roll motor by hand) and it always stayes tighter to the top than it does the bottom. Could my motor have been built with this not being perfectly centered? I know this sounds like a stretch, but I don't know what else it could be. I used the 12026b seal. Is there a better seal out there that would work better for me?
Also had another thought, If the bearing, or race was worn, because I re-torqued it could the shaft be pulled a little to the worn side of the race and still be tight?
 
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bowman

Member
No. Tried h-d seal, and a generic type. Both sit the same way, look just a little off center, same direction.
 

Little-Boo

Well-Known Member
Troop Supporter
For what it's worth, I once switched to synthetic oil on the rear end of my 99 Z-28 Camaro (12 bolt Mosser) and even with new gaskets and seal the oil would seep out when hot. I went back to regular oil and the oil leak problem stop. On my dog I run the lucas 50 wt oil. I never did have an oil leak with the 20-50, but with the hydro solid lifters it sounded like a sewing machine so I went to the 50 Wt and works good for me.

Carlos :whoop:
 

bowman

Member
Yep, only when warm. I was wondering about the oil too. I am running synthetic for now, that will change soon. Maybe tomorrow. I'm really questioning the bearing also. I don't know how hard it is the change, it looks easy, but the bearing pullers I own are useless on this setup. It's at a shop as of an hour ago. getting new tires. Told them to give me a price on changing the bearing too. I'd rather them not do it, but I don't have the tools.
 

bowman

Member
Ill try getting a pic. I'm no very computer oriented, so may take a bit. give me a day or two. I'm a welder by trade, computers are still a really weak area for me.
 

KnotSo

Admin
Staff member
I have a seal leak that I can't figure out. Bike is a 2000 wolf 107 tp. Open primary. I replaced the seal, installed it spring in because of open primary. Still leaks. I thought maybe the vent was clogged but is seams to be fine. It only leaks when the motor is warm. When it's sitting in my garage it doesn't leak, but go ride a while, park it and I notice it's still leaking. Any ideas are helpful. Thanks.
What was the resolution of this issue? :cheers:
 

Sven

Well-Known Member
Old post but post #20 says it all.

How fast can vacuum speed back to the penultimate number? I'm sure it's wrong but my concept says if I suck fuel and air in and zero out to 14.7 on the close... If lightening travels thru the air and the speed it took to get to ground... I'd say a one way suck ball and crankcase vent is going to be lightening quick moving that ball to zero it out to the penultimate number.

And then my concept about rubbing both hands together and asks which one palm stayed cold? So that groove is really a groove or a way to relax the seal lip sitting deep in that groove again. If you slammed the seal deeper in or tapped it in a little shallow, it moves away from that groove, sans buying a new sleeve, because the engineers figured out how to replace that common groove leak is with a new collar.

So, new seal, new collar or you install a new part over that worn out warm hand that did not stay cold, but in a balance sort of way; equally wore out each other.
 
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