I have a seal leak that I can't figure out. Bike is a 2000 wolf 107 tp. Open primary. I replaced the seal, installed it spring in because of open primary. Still leaks. I thought maybe the vent was clogged but is seams to be fine. It only leaks when the motor is warm. When it's sitting in my garage it doesn't leak, but go ride a while, park it and I notice it's still leaking. Any ideas are helpful. Thanks.
new seal...same leak...
- Thread starter bowman
- Start date
When you install the new one make sure you use oil or Vaseline on the lip of the seal so that it does not cook itself and get hard. The Crank seal is a dual seals the will prevent oil from leaking in either direction. Who ever stated the thread of installing it backward is full of shit in my opinion 
Install it as it should be, oil the lip and you are done.
Carlos :2thumbs:
Install it as it should be, oil the lip and you are done. Carlos :2thumbs:
minermark
Active Member
X2 on the vaseline.When you install the new one make sure you use oil or Vaseline on the lip of the seal so that it does not cook itself and get hard. The Crank seal is a dual seals the will prevent oil from leaking in either direction. Who ever stated the thread of installing it backward is full of shit in my opinion
Carlos :2thumbs:
From what I've seen I think newer style seal(twin cam) is 2 directional. Older evo style is one direction. I used oil on last install...I'll try vaseline this time I guess. ThanksWhen you install the new one make sure you use oil or Vaseline on the lip of the seal so that it does not cook itself and get hard. The Crank seal is a dual seals the will prevent oil from leaking in either direction. Who ever stated the thread of installing it backward is full of shit in my opinion
Carlos :2thumbs:
Yep. Actually open primary has been on a couple years, even before I owned this bike. Stator and rotor are also new(changed seal same time as stator and rotor) shouldn't be any residual oil. :bang: I'm actually starting to wonder if the oil leak is leaking through the spacer and splines. Anyone ever glue the spacer on the shaft with rtv before installing the seal?
New Boots
Human
You allowed it leaked after it warmed up – would the one way valve up top create pressure on the crankcase seal if it wasn’t working correctly. I know when I change my seal it was a tight fit and I used Vaseline like Little Boo said. I smeared that stuff all over the seal and body and then took off after the old lady with the jar…..lol :2thumbs:When you install the new one make sure you use oil or Vaseline on the lip of the seal so that it does not cook itself and get hard. The Crank seal is a dual seals the will prevent oil from leaking in either direction. Who ever stated the thread of installing it backward is full of shit in my opinion
Carlos :2thumbs:
New Boots
Human
If you know the crankshaft seal is leaking for sure I would just change it, with that open primary it won’t take you 30 min to complete the job. The bottom drain plug will leak sometimes making it look like the crankcase is leaking with the bike leaning that way. I would check all the bolts I could get a wrench on if I was you. The one way valve is on the back head going to the carb on my bike (all hooked with rubber hose) Bowman I haven’t been at this very long and I can only speak with confidence on things I have done to my bike. The old timers like Little-Boo & stlmikie will steer you in the right direction. :2thumbs:
I haven't been at this long enough to know everything either.(never will) Thats why I'm asking here. I'm definitely trying everything that people have suggested, because I already put a new seal in, and it still leaks. Now I just have to wait for parts toarrive, and try again. Thanks for the advise.
RRRUFF
Well-Known Member
I would agree that the crankcase is not venting properly. If the sprocket spline is a blind hole and slides up on the crankshaft then shouldn't leak. Not as familiar with the 107s but if there is a one way valve coming of the rear head then I would just replace it. Does not cost that much and you are good to go. If there is no grove in the shaft then you are not venting porperly.
Staffy
Active Member
Had done this on a '07 so do hope the engines are similar - Make sure you change the seal AND the spacer.
Although the leak only shows when the engine is warm I would still inspect, clean out and "tap" the check valve. Please take a moment to read this post in detail....
http://www.bigdogbiker.com/forums/help-wanted/23850-replacing-sprocket-shaft-oil-seal.html
I found this link extremly informative when replacing my seal - may be a different motor but the concept is similar -
FLATHEADPOWER.COM-TECH TALK • View topic - V-Twin Special Spacer For STD Crankcases
This is the sealant i used (and recommend)[ame="http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-85249-Hylomar-Universal-Dressing/dp/B0018PSATY"]http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-85249-Hylomar-Universal-Dressing/dp/B0018PSATY[/ame]
(You can shop it just posted the Amazon link as a reference "PERMATEX 85249")
good luck
Although the leak only shows when the engine is warm I would still inspect, clean out and "tap" the check valve. Please take a moment to read this post in detail....
http://www.bigdogbiker.com/forums/help-wanted/23850-replacing-sprocket-shaft-oil-seal.html
I found this link extremly informative when replacing my seal - may be a different motor but the concept is similar -
FLATHEADPOWER.COM-TECH TALK • View topic - V-Twin Special Spacer For STD Crankcases
This is the sealant i used (and recommend)[ame="http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-85249-Hylomar-Universal-Dressing/dp/B0018PSATY"]http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-85249-Hylomar-Universal-Dressing/dp/B0018PSATY[/ame]
(You can shop it just posted the Amazon link as a reference "PERMATEX 85249")
good luck
Last edited:
Can you blow :lol: just kidding
Take the check valve off and blow on the white end of it. The white end should be facing the rear head. If it is clear you are OK, if it is blocked with oil and or crap replace it or clean it. If you have it installed back-wards it is not good as it will create pressure in the crankcase. I guess you can get one anywhere, its a 3/8 Nylon one-way check valve (BDM part No. 100-000025-00) and sells for about 11 bucks. Carlos
