Need to know what Fluid drains from Here?
- Thread starter Quilo
- Start date
Quilo
Member
Jersey Big Mike
100K mile club
that's the sump -- it was engine oil that sits at the bottom of the engine. Not much will ever come out.
I did the same thing YEARS AGO with my first bike and got yelled at by my wrench -- "NO never do that -- put it back in now, I'll wait"
Found the proper oil drain a few minutes later and never did that one again.
I'll take a stab at it...
1. Pour hole to cast the case... kind of doubt it but it's a guess.
2. Sump service hole... where you can wash the crankcase out without splitting the cases.
3. Crank locking hole for assembly line purposes... has to have a slot(s) in that line of sight is the crank weight or cancel this as a variable.
Three oil systems as far as evolution of the otto-cycle:
a. Total Loss... Where you had the gas on one side of the tank, and the other tank held oil to lube and lose as you pump the rockers with it dropping on said parts. Look at your crotch soaked with that loss.
b. Dry Sump... means the oil is pulled out of the crankcase so the flyweights do not drag in it. The oil bag both lubes, retrieves, cools, and returns with filtered oil. Trousers are now dry.
c. Wet Sump... Where the bag and hoses are eliminated, the oil is inside the case, the oil drops from the head and out of the crankshaft. The oil is always sloshing and dragging the crankshaft thru it more or less. Evolution of the engine case now drops the same oil level away from the crankshaft and you hear more HP out of cars/bikes due to subtle things like that. 100% cotton briefs remain oil free with this system ass well... well, maybe not there, but you get the brown from brown, yellow from brown.
SKOGDOG
One of the old ones.
It is easy to strip that because it is going into the soft aluminum of the engine case—do not to overtighten it, because if you strip the threads, you’ll have to drill it out and helicoil it for a repair.
Paul Knowles is correct that you need a manual—get a torque wrench too. I looked for a torque spec on the sump drain plug but came up dry (haha). (dry sump—get it?)
What do you guys think? Blue loctite and 10-12 ft lbs? Or slightly less at 100 in lbs? Then leave it alone.
Paul Knowles is correct that you need a manual—get a torque wrench too. I looked for a torque spec on the sump drain plug but came up dry (haha). (dry sump—get it?)
What do you guys think? Blue loctite and 10-12 ft lbs? Or slightly less at 100 in lbs? Then leave it alone.
Jersey James
Jersey James
I always drain my oil from the oil bag AND the engine oil drain on the bottom of the engine also. Usually get another 2~3 more ounces of dirty oil. Been doing this for years, never a problem. Just use your noggin, use some Teflon tape and do NOT over tighten. If S&S didn't mean for this plug to be used to drain the crankcase, why would they have put a magnet on it, to catch any possible metal fileings??? Works for me, and with five bikes, doing oil changes every 1,000 miles, NEVER stripped the drain hole threads yet... Just st my 2¢. JJ
willywill4765
Active Member
Yeah I posted a couple pictures I still can't find the drain plug for the oil I know it's not the one on the very bottom someone said that's the sump pump or something like that do you have a picture of where the drain plug s&s 117 2007 big dog bulldog
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