need help troubleshooting

[CaptJJ]

got 2006 K9, had loose neg cable @ the battery, melted neg terminal on battery, replaced with new battery, fired right up & rode no problems, 1 day later ready to ride again, want hit a lick, not even click, checked all connections, fuse for voltage reg circut protection good, no melted wires, visibly all good, plenty battery juice, dash (speedo) lights up normal, still want even click, any Ideals? anybody, thanks

 

[1 B.M.F.]

I would double check that all the wires got hooked back up to battery I did it once and missed one. If all is good unhook battery, neg only and let sit min 30 seconds. Then hook up and try to start. That will reset the ehc.,good luck.

 

[Sven]

... unhook battery, neg only and let sit min 30 seconds. Then hook up and try to start. That will reset the ehc.

If you found the hot wire of the black box, you more or less ground that a few times to empty the capacitors. Of course there are no wires on the posi side of the battery so grounding is safe to empty. No wait time of it bleeding down... wink-wink.

 

[Mikeinjersey]

got 2006 K9, had loose neg cable @ the battery, melted neg terminal on battery, replaced with new battery, fired right up & rode no problems, 1 day later ready to ride again, want hit a lick, not even click, checked all connections, fuse for voltage reg circut protection good, no melted wires, visibly all good, plenty battery juice, dash (speedo) lights up normal, still want even click, any Ideals? anybody, thanks

Make sure your battery has 12.8 + volts new or not. Also check your VR to make sure it's charging when you get your bike running. It's possible it got fried and when you rode the bike it wasn't charging so your new battery got low on charge.

 

[CaptJJ]

Not getting Fire down to the starter, would that be the Voltage reg out or the ECH out, everything else lights up works fine, just no fire to the starter, there for will not crank, anybody got any ideals, thanks

 

[Th3InfamousI]

See if you got +12v going to the green solenoid wire on your starter when you hit Start. Remember you will need to hit RUN first then Start.

See what you got going to the green wire, if anything. If you are not getting 12v to the green solenoid wire when you hit start then you got a different problem & just need to back track from there. Let us know what you get on that green wire and we can go to the next steps from there. This will tell you if it's upstream or downstream and which route to go.

When you say everything works...blinkers work?

 

[CaptJJ]

See if you got +12v going to the green solenoid wire on your starter when you hit Start. Remember you will need to hit RUN first then Start.

See what you got going to the green wire, if anything. If you are not getting 12v to the green solenoid wire when you hit start then you got a different problem & just need to back track from there. Let us know what you get on that green wire and we can go to the next steps from there. This will tell you if it's upstream or downstream and which route to go.

When you say everything works...blinkers work?

getting 0 volts on the green wire to the starter, blinkers work, all lights work, even lights on speedo lights up, no juice to the starter, you can use a jumper wire off the hot post on the battery to where the green wire goes on the starter & it will turn over, with everything hooked up normal, you hit the start button & it don't even click

 

[Th3InfamousI]

getting 0 volts on the green wire to the starter, blinkers work, all lights work, even lights on speedo lights up, no juice to the starter, you can use a jumper wire off the hot post on the battery to where the green wire goes on the starter & it will turn over, with everything hooked up normal, you hit the start button & it don't even click

Well you ruled out the downstream starter...So lets start at the TOP!

When you hit the Run Button does the ignition module turn on? You should hear it click and an LED light goes on. If nothing it could be up in the hand controls, take it apart and find out if it's the PCB Switch and just the start button wore out.

You can jump the pins on the connector to see what happens. Will have to do the Run then the start again.

Check out the video on this link for the how-to video at the bottom on what I am talking about...and if it ends up working jumping the pins you already got the link for the new switch and you'll be back up and running in no-time. If it's not the switch then it's between the hand controls and the starter. Will take a while to figure out were you might have a short.

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[CaptJJ]

Well you ruled out the downstream starter...So lets start at the TOP!

When you hit the Run Button does the ignition module turn on? You should hear it click and an LED light goes on. If nothing it could be up in the hand controls, take it apart and find out if it's the PCB Switch and just the start button wore out.

You can jump the pins on the connector to see what happens. Will have to do the Run then the start again.

Check out the video on this link for the how-to video at the bottom on what I am talking about...and if it ends up working jumping the pins you already got the link for the new switch and you'll be back up and running in no-time. If it's not the switch then it's between the hand controls and the starter. Will take a while to figure out were you might have a short.

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Hay thanks, I think you are on to something here, not getting a firm click @ the start button & the right blinker is not working but the left is & the video is very helpful, It will be tomorrow before I get a chance to check it out some more, but as soon as I get back home tomorrow I'm on it, let ya know how it turns out, again thanks for your help

 

[Mikeinjersey]

Hay thanks, I think you are on to something here, not getting a firm click @ the start button & the right blinker is not working but the left is & the video is very helpful, It will be tomorrow before I get a chance to check it out some more, but as soon as I get back home tomorrow I'm on it, let ya know how it turns out, again thanks for your help

Your right control brd could very well be at issue here especially because of the extra failure of the rt blinker you discovered. Just a suggestion before you pull the brd out. When the start button is depressed it triggers 2 separate but simultaneous actions. It operates the compression releases (click) while also operating the starter. You mention not getting a firm click when you hit the start button. Any response from the start button is confirmation that it is completing the circuit and probably OK. Check your EHC for any fault lights and also re-seat the connection.

 

[Jersey Big Mike]

Your right control brd could very well be at issue here especially because of the extra failure of the rt blinker you discovered. Just a suggestion before you pull the brd out. When the start button is depressed it triggers 2 separate but simultaneous actions. It operates the compression releases (click) while also operating the starter. You mention not getting a firm click when you hit the start button. Any response from the start button is confirmation that it is completing the circuit and probably OK. Check your EHC for any fault lights and also re-seat the connection.

But a FIRM physically click does not rule out a cracked PCB. The crack could be in the trace after/before switch.
Tactile response does not guarantee electrical response.
I'd pull that board and test all the circuits by manually activating them with a small jumper wire to ground.

 

[CaptJJ]

made it home, checked the right hand PCB switch as the video suggested, do not have any fire going to the right side PCB board, got fire @ the key switch & ign coil & everywhere else just no fire @ the right hand controls (pcb) & no fire to the starter

 

[Jersey Big Mike]

made it home, checked the right hand PCB switch as the video suggested, do not have any fire going to the right side PCB board, got fire @ the key switch & ign coil & everywhere else just no fire @ the right hand controls (pcb) & no fire to the starter

Don't forget that all the signals at the switches are LV signals meant to be activated when grounded.
This is not like a standard wired bike where POWER goes to the switch and then to circuit being powered.
You need to ground the signal wires one at a time to test their function.

 

[Mikeinjersey]

made it home, checked the right hand PCB switch as the video suggested, do not have any fire going to the right side PCB board, got fire @ the key switch & ign coil & everywhere else just no fire @ the right hand controls (pcb) & no fire to the starter

Redo the test it seems you may be doing something wrong. Not likely all circuits are dead but always good to double check your work.
If when the PCB is plugged in you have no rt turn signal, no start signal, no front brake signal and no run signal that means you may have an open between the EHC and the PCB. You should also be showing faults on your EHC. The wire diagram does show an additional connector between the PCB and EHC. Follow the wires back and try to find it.