Need clutch plate

[Perro Grande]

Hello fellow members

I just replaced my clutch pack with a Baker 12pack clutch kit. I adjusted the clutch like I’ve done many times over the years and at hard acceleration it seems it still slips , around town no problem. I talked to a mechanic today to pick his brain and he suggested i add a steel plate to the clutch pack to add more pressure to the diaphram spring plate. Problem is i threw away my old clutch pack and I’m asking anyone on the forum if they have an old clutch pack where i can steal one of the steel plates to see if it works. My Big dog is an 2006 Mastiff . I’m willing to pay for it need be.

 

[cdogg556]

I don't have a extra but I am sure someone will be able to help you out, just seems weird that it slips, are you using synthetic oil? Cause I had synthetic in mine when I bought it and it slipped, changed to B&M Trick Shift transmission oil, non-synthetic and not a problem since, also did you replace the pressure plate when you did the clutch plates? If not I would do that before adding another steel plate to your clutch pack, hope you get it worked out.

 

[pknowles]

How much play do you have in the clutch lever?

 

[Perro Grande]

The pressure plate is still fairly new and i dont use synthetic, i use Bakers spectro heavy duty primary oil. Clutch lever play is 1/16-1/8” , it shifts nicely , doesnt creep at a standstill , easy to find neutral.

 

[pknowles]

The pressure plate is still fairly new and i dont use synthetic, i use Bakers spectro heavy duty primary oil. Clutch lever play is 1/16-1/8” , it shifts nicely , doesnt creep at a standstill , easy to find neutral.

I'm going to ask a stupid question, are all the plates in the right order?

 

[cdogg556]

The pressure plate is still fairly new and i dont use synthetic, i use Bakers spectro heavy duty primary oil. Clutch lever play is 1/16-1/8” , it shifts nicely , doesnt creep at a standstill , easy to find neutral.

Hmm, well then I guess it couldn't hurt to try adding another steel plate and see if it works, just seems like you would be avoiding fixing what's really wrong, in all honesty it should not slip so something ain't right.

 

[Perro Grande]

Yes the plates are in the right order, i always use the manual for reference. Well I’ve gone through everything, the transmission was rebuilt 5 years ago from Baker, the clutch basket i replaced several years ago because the “stock” ones had a tendency to break, I inspected it before putting back together , primary chain is within specs , teeth on sprockets are in great shape. I’ve literally tried everything over the years and could never get rid of the slip. I’m willing to “try” the steel plate to see if it works , I just need to find a member who has one. I do agree something is not right but for argument sake what if it works ? I do appreciate everyones input !

 

[Th3InfamousI]

you can't just add a steel plate, where the hell would you put it? You cant do steel on steel that will just slip that mechanic doesn't make any sense, you should stop asking him.

What you can do however is go with a thicker steel plate. The stock clutch with the 12 disc pack is well known to have the steels wear ever so slightly bringing the stack height out of its sweet spot. That is why in the later years they went down to a 9 plate pack to thicken the steels and prevent the wear.

Anyways there was a recent thread on the stack height earlier this year, I can't remember off the top off my head bit I went over the same thing. Call EnergyOnethe makers of our OEM clutch they are a vendor too and they will sell you a thicker steel cost you more in shipping than the part probably, so have the clutch ready to measure the stack height so youll know what size to get. It's an easy fix...


Now with all that said that Spectro heavy duty oil is way too thick! It's recommended to use ATF type F fluid non synthetic or that B&M trick shift those are similar in viscosity to only a 10w oil...the heavy duty stuff your using is 85w! I would start there as you can pick ATF type F for $5. That type of heavy oil will certainly wear your clutch faster...


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[Perro Grande]

With all due respect The3Infamous!, there is no need to be so animated in your first paragraph. I will call energy one so thanks for the input and as far as the spectro it was recommended by Baker drivetrain. Obviously there are Baker transmissions in our Big Dogs and they also carry primary parts after BiG Dog shutdown so i think they have a legitimate say in whats recommended to run in our primarys. Again thank you for your advice , i will take it into consideration

 

[Jersey Big Mike]

With all due respect The3Infamous!, there is no need to be so animated in your first paragraph. I will call energy one so thanks for the input and as far as the spectro it was recommended by Baker drivetrain. Obviously there are Baker transmissions in our Big Dogs and they also carry primary parts after BiG Dog shutdown so i think they have a legitimate say in whats recommended to run in our primarys. Again thank you for your advice , i will take it into consideration

I'd have to agree about the Spectro oil -- that's the recommended oil for the Bandit clutch setup as well.
I'd also agree that The3Infamous' emphasis (wouldn't call it aninated) was warranted -- It was a very important point that others seems to have skipped over.
If you still have trouble I have all the plates from when I pulled my clutch and replaced it with a Bandit (wasn't my issue) there aren't new but I know it wasn't slipping. If it doesn't work out with the new steel send me a PM and we can work something out.

 

[Perro Grande]

Thanks Jersey Big Mike , i will call Energy one first and see if they could help. If it doesn’t work i will contact you later , thanks!

 

[pauly]

Is it possible that you have free play on your clutch lever but none on clutch push rod?
Did you have a twelve pack clutch in there before as well?
Nine and twelve pack clutches have different ball and ramp.

Paul.

 

[liferider]

And that my friends is why I run a lock up BDL clutch!!

 

[bdm7250]

And that my friends is why I run a lock up BDL clutch!!

And I run a Piranha jr clutch..

 

[Jwooky]

I had the same issue, even with my new clutch pack. Baker has a heavier spring and anodized pressure plate. Solved my problem.

I have a lot of mods @john sachs heads, making big power too.

It was not expensive either ~$100 for both.

 

[Sven]

Back in the day, honda came out with a squid squeaker plate called a 'wave plate.' Customer complaint was the pack would chatter, make noise, squid hears it and cries to the factory. Factory comes up with two steel plates riveted together with a spring washer that was bent like an ocean wave or ripple. The chatter would cause the spring to take up the noise and problem solved. The question is, will two steels together cause a problem? No.

Finished Pack:
1. The pressure plate or wave plate {I'll assume] is to have the wave pressed as flat as a pancake.
2. To accomplish a wave plate to lay flat, you stack steels until the pack causes the wave plate to sit flat.
3. The plate direction is to look for the cut edge of the steel to face the wave plate. Find the same for the frictions as well to face the same direction.

 

[Perro Grande]

Paul good questions , yes i had a 12 pack in there before and i also verified with Baker that i have the 12pack ball and ramp. Can u clarify more on free play on clutch vs clutch rod

 

[Sven]

Non-Wave Plate Style:
Clutch Outer = The big basket - Holds frictions - Spins with crank
Clutch Center = The little guy - Holds steels - Main shaft of trans input.

Clutch Stack:
Factory Fit - Measure so many plates so the last place measures per blueprint in the manual.
Shadetree Fit - Stack the last plate so when the pressure plate is as far away as thrown by the lever, you can't pull the plate out of the clutch outer.
In other words, the pressure plate is still inside the clutch outer, meaning, on the raggedge of moving out of the clutch outer. And there goes your last plate about to lock the pressure plate from closing back into the clutch outer.
Ramp-to-pushrod: If say this is a clutch cable style adjuster somewhere in the cable, the ramp's balls either sit deep in its well from the start, or the balls are up and out of the pockets and if you pull the lever, the ramp is played out; nor can a plate fully break away from each other. You'll have to remove a plate so the rod can push the ramp balls closer to the pockets. This is where you gain throw, which separates the plates from dragging, and no joy finding N.

 

[Sven]

Can u clarify more on free play on clutch vs clutch rod

Paul can give his rendition, here is mine.
If say there is an adjuster screw at the pressure plate, run the threads back into the cable's adjuster assy. This is so the balls can run back into its pockets. With the adjuster screw, run that in so the rod homes the adjuster assembly so the balls land back home [into their pockets].

1/4 Turn Out:
Turn the screw out 1/4 turn from home. Do not tighten nut just yet to understand theory. Run the threads out of the adjuster cable so the lever has 'Zero Slack' at the lever. This is where the balls ride up the ramp sooner from home base. This is where the full throw at the lever breaks the plates farther away.

1/2 Turn Out:
At the adjuster screw, run the bolt out 1/4 turn more. Go up to the lever and pull on it, meaning, just take the slack out of that 1/4 turn out. Note how short the throw is taking up 1/4 turn out more?

To Find N Like Butter:
Run 1/4 out from balls being set in their pockets so the throw is longer, the plates break farther away, the ankle is not damaged chasing N.

 

[Th3InfamousI]

With all due respect The3Infamous!, there is no need to be so animated in your first paragraph. I will call energy one so thanks for the input and as far as the spectro it was recommended by Baker drivetrain. Obviously there are Baker transmissions in our Big Dogs and they also carry primary parts after BiG Dog shutdown so i think they have a legitimate say in whats recommended to run in our primarys. Again thank you for your advice , i will take it into consideration

I don't think It was animated but hey whatever you wanna call it! You can Take it or leave it!

Baker only carries the clutch carrier, yep they built our transmissions but last I checked we don't use transmission oil in the primary. if you don't believe me ask EnergyOne when you call what oil they recommend for THEIR clutches.

Just Trying to help here...you asked for it!

SideNote Baker is partnered with Spectro, they changed partnership back in 2009 from Redline to Spectro...just like S&S and Mobil1




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