Need clutch plate

[Perro Grande]

Thank you Th3Infamous! I appreciate everyone’s input on this forum

 

[Th3InfamousI]

Thank you Th3Infamous! I appreciate everyone’s input on this forum

BTW here is the post I was referring to earlier this year about it, take a gander. It's got the clutch height spec from energyone.

Thanks for the tip on Energyone. I talked to Kent who said the spec for this pack should measure 1.970”-1.980” he said to swap a .058 with a new .079 to bring pack to minimum build height. Great guy-he got my address and put a .079 in the mail for FREE!
He also said Baker sells a heavy duty Diaphragm Spring that measures .092” thick and .0315” to the arc. He said a high RPM slip (3rd gear) is tension related and may need new spring. Low RPM slip is wear related.

https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?ur.../&share_tid=81441&share_fid=9882&share_type=t



Sent from my 2PS64 using Tapatalk

 

[Th3InfamousI]

Back in the day, honda came out with a squid squeaker plate called a 'wave plate.' Customer complaint was the pack would chatter, make noise, squid hears it and cries to the factory. Factory comes up with two steel plates riveted together with a spring washer that was bent like an ocean wave or ripple. The chatter would cause the spring to take up the noise and problem solved. The question is, will two steels together cause a problem? No.

Finished Pack:
1. The pressure plate or wave plate {I'll assume] is to have the wave pressed as flat as a pancake.
2. To accomplish a wave plate to lay flat, you stack steels until the pack causes the wave plate to sit flat.
3. The plate direction is to look for the cut edge of the steel to face the wave plate. Find the same for the frictions as well to face the same direction.

Sven, I read your post, looked at the drawing and thought about it some more now I would agree that potentially you could stick an extra steel in to get the thickness and if you put it in the back nearest the trans it probably would be fine.

Now with that said, really this guy needs to know how thick and it's probably not that fair off so an extra steel would be too high and he have a hell of a time trying to press the lever.

I know you don't work on BD but the clutch pack starts with a steel plate and ends with a friction touching the pressure plate. I don't think you can add a steel at the end as it would most likely be too high and it's metal on metal so adding more heat to the primary.


So I stand corrected, I'll admit but I think you'd agree it's not the better fix. I do like you made me rethink it though! My hats off to you! Haha


Sent from my 2PS64 using Tapatalk

 

[Sven]

... you could stick an extra steel in to get the thickness and if you put it in the back nearest the trans it probably would be fine.

The steel has no clue where it should be, first in, in the middle, at the end [on a friction] that is. If you think about it, the domino effect starts from the inner plate and collapses on the next plate and so on, until the pressure plate closes down on the last plate. So both steels [at the back] would take up the heat and transfer from steel to steel. I'd set it up this way for testing. In the middle is no problem either.

... so an extra steel would be too high and he have a hell of a time trying to press the lever.

Disagree. If say the wave plate is flat, there is less pull with it already flat. Think about it. If the wave had any caving in due to worn plates or an out of spec pack, look how much the caving in has to be taken up. So pushing the pressure plate away, there is less cone being created, trying to get back to memory. Make sense?

I know you don't work on BD but the clutch pack starts with a steel plate and ends with a friction touching the pressure plate. I don't think you can add a steel at the end as it would most likely be too high and it's metal on metal so adding more heat to the primary.

True, I am not familiar with said product, but design wise, this bike is as generic as any other multi-plate setup. The theory works using the same principals basically. I did address the second plate and gave my take on heat transfer.

So I stand corrected, I'll admit but I think you'd agree it's not the better fix. I do like you made me rethink it though! My hats off to you! Haha

Takes a man to admit he's wrong. This is still a standard race trick using a second steel. So that says, 'in a pinch' to get back in the game of it, no internal damage will occur even under race conditions. Bottom line, the OP should have at least a flat wave plate using a new pack of frictions and steels.

 

[Perro Grande]

Thanks Sven for that post

 

[Perro Grande]

So after talking to energy one and measuring the clutch pack as recommended and being within range , i took the whole primary apart. Only thing i found was “play” in the clutch basket. I took the clutch basket off and inspected it and was totally fine as years ago clutch basket had a tendency to have cracks in it. When I describe play in the clutch basket it seemed it wasn’t seated completely, i only realized this after i took it off and put it back on and torqued it to specs that it seated correctly and then there was no side to side play in it. I adjusted clutch today as normal and no more clutch slippage at high rpms , i cant remember who said in this forum their is an underlying problem and they were right . Also I appreciate all the members here for their input because without everyone’s discussion i could not trouble shoot my issue. So long story short , clutch basket was not seated correctly when it was replaced years ago which resulted in several years of slippage at high rpms and now its fast as F! Also i replaced the clutch spring with bakers heavy duty diaphragm spring and the chopper is back to being a speed demon. I blew several harley today and I’m glad to have the chopper at 100% , thanks for everyones input