Need a little help from my friends...
- Thread starter Trashman
- Start date
Trashman
Member
EHC module is black in color. The starter relay is mounted on battery box forward of rear tire. I just reset the relay and ignition module (Thunderheart) red LED came on. Cranked bike and it busted right off, ran for 15 - 20 seconds and shutdown. I guess plugs do get good spark when circuit is made. I just need to figure out what the hell is breaking the circuit. I guess the relay could be a possibility. I'll also take a look at the cam sensor thread for troubleshooting as well.
mobsta
Well-Known Member
make sure your battery conections are good,i was going to say try the breaker but i didnt think the bike would crank if that was the issue,good to know,your ehc is the old one.might start lookn for some wires rubbed through or loose connection somewhere,good luck,if i think of anything i will let you know
If you are sure it's not fuel related then I would pull the EHC (being very careful) and ensure it's full of die-electric grease. Then I would search for grounds. When it restarted did it trip the breaker again?
I'd bet you got water somewhere that is causing the short.
Trashman
Member
Hey guy's, did a little more troubleshooting on my bike this evening. Removed battery and checked all terminals. Battery tender terminal on the positive side was about to break at the spade lug. Need to get spade lugs and will solder the wire to the terminal. Meantime battery is on the bench connected to the tender and I 'm measuring ~13.8vdc under charge. Removed the coil cover assy, measure 11.8K between spark plug wire connections. Measure zero (0) ohms between red and yellow wires that connect to the side post on the coil. Saw a post in my search on this problem and someone mentioned it should be 3 to 4 ohms. Can anyone confirm what the resistance measurement should be and where these two wires go off the coil? Also inspected cam sensor last night. It looks ok, but looks can be deceiving! I have NOT disconnected the ECH and checked for moisture as the bike never gets wet. If you think it's worth looking at for this problem, I'll sure do it. Will not be able to get the battery back into the bike until tomorrow after get some spade lugs. Any additional support, direction, ideas etc would sure be appreciated...
Trashman
Member
Hey guy's, did a little more troubleshooting on my bike this evening. Removed battery and checked all terminals. Battery tender terminal on the positive side was about to break at the spade lug. Need to get spade lugs and will solder the wire to the terminal. Meantime battery is on the bench connected to the tender and I 'm measuring ~13.8vdc under charge. Removed the coil cover assy, measure 11.8K between spark plug wire connections. Measure zero (0) ohms between red and yellow wires that connect to the side post on the coil. Saw a post in my search on this problem and someone mentioned it should be 3 to 4 ohms. Can anyone confirm what the resistance measurement should be and where these two wires go off the coil? Also inspected cam sensor last night. It looks ok, but looks can be deceiving! I have NOT disconnected the ECH and checked for moisture as the bike never gets wet. If you think it's worth looking at for this problem, I'll sure do it. Will not be able to get the battery back into the bike until tomorrow after get some spade lugs. Any additional support, direction, ideas etc would sure be appreciated...
mobsta
Well-Known Member
im not real sure about the electrical stuff,i believe the coil gets its signal from the cam sensor,the thing that gets me is the breaker popping,sounds like a short or something triggering that but again not sure,did you ever pull the ehc connector and fill it with die electric grease,i know that right before my ehc went south i had start one day no start the next,your ehc is the original style by its part # i also had no high beam
Trashman
Member
Mobsta, I'm about ready to start shotgunning this problem. I'll order a new breaker, cam sensor and coil. I'll get some dialectric grease and reseat the EHC. I'd hate to buy the damn ignition module if I don't need it! It's about $350.00. By the way, I am getting 4.2 ohms across the two terminal where the red and yellow wires connect. I have zero ohms measuring resistance between the red and yellow wire. I appreciate your help bud..
DRBarnhart
Insert title here...
What did you do to "reset the relay and ignition module"?
Have you checked the ignition switch or the start/run switch?
Take another look at that relay. Does it look exactly like the one in the pic that KA posted? The reason I ask is because your bike shouldn't have one of those...
Dennis
DRBarnhart
Insert title here...
A waste of money, time, and effort in my opinion.
What breaker?
I'd take a minute to find the thread mobsta is talking about and do some troubleshooting...
4.2 ohms isn't bad if your talking between the two connectors ON the coil and the 11.8 kohms between the spark plug connectors is also good! There isn't really any reason to check resistance between the wires that hookup there...
Dennis
DRBarnhart
Insert title here...
If your talking about the 30 amp breaker from the VR? It has nothing to do with whether the bike will crank/start.
By way of the ignition module.
I'm still rereading this post trying to find what breaker is popping...
Dennis
Trashman
Member
DRBarnheart, Not sure if it was just a fluke or not but I messed with the starter relay, which has a reset button on it, and the red power light came lit up on the ECH. Cranked bike, started and died again within 15-20 seconds. The starter relay on my bike does NOT look like the one pictured in an earlier post. This relay is $6.00 bucks so I figured it would be a cheap purchase even if it ends up being a spare. I have NOT checked the run switch on the handle bar assy, I quess that could be a possibility. Original problem again is that the bike started and shutdown 15-20 seconds later. Bike would crank strong but not start. Upon turning on the key, the yellow light on the ECH will flash for a nono second, which is normal operation. When I hit the run switch the red power LED should light on the ECH and when I crank the bike the red LED on the ignition module should light up. I get the red power LED intermittantly on the ECH and when I do the red LED on the ignition module will light up. In this condition the bike will start and then shutdown 15-20 seconds later. This problem is really beginning to frustrate the hell out of me.