Is it MANDATORY to replace...

Energy One

117 cu in

Member
Is it mandatory to replace engine case cylinder studs when jugs removed for headwork and honing?
The motor only has 3000 miles…117 cu in S&S.
Thanx again
 

Raywood

The Pirate
Staff member
Calendar Participant
Troop Supporter
Is it mandatory to replace engine case cylinder studs when jugs removed for headwork and honing?
The motor only has 3000 miles…117 cu in S&S.
Thanx again
Its recommended in the S&S engine manual. I think its due to stretching of the bolts but not sure
 

Moespeeds

Well-Known Member
I don't, but I always check to make sure they will hold torque before putting it all back together. If it's the first time the engine is apart then I def would not.
 

john sachs

Well-Known Member
NO NEED !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :bang: Don't do it.
The weakest link of that chain are the threads in the case. No need to aggravate them.
John
 

Relic

Active Member
I'm glad John Sachs made that statement. S&S told me the same thing over the phone. No need for new studs or head bolts. Just make sure you put a few drops of oil on the threads when re-torquing (also doesn't hurt to put a little oil under the head bolt washer.

I've also been told to "not" follow the torque values in the S&S manual (8'- 18' +90). The reccomendation was 5 lbs increments on each bolt topping out at 35 or 40 lbs.

John, what do you think of the torque values in the manual ?
 
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john sachs

Well-Known Member
John, what do you think of the torque values in the manual ?[/QUOTE]

I am a little aprahensive when it comes to torque on S&S head bolts.
35 ft. pounds WILL create problems, :angry: as I feel that's not enough torque.
I've also witnessed studs pulling out of S&S cases. :bang: That being said, if you have warranty concerns, it may be better to use S&S torque specs, and gaskets.
John
 

117 cu in

Member
Well...I'm having the cylinder top lip machined off a few thou (8-10) as to use Cometic MLS gaskets...warranty isn't an issue for me anyway. Mega Flo doing work for me on heads/jugs/carb as we speak. Bike is being worked/tuned at JD's.
 

Little-Boo

Well-Known Member
Troop Supporter
I went to Fueling Parts

Harley Davidson Racing and Performance Parts and Accessories - FeulingParts.com

and replaced the fasteners for the simple reason that I hate to use torque to yield bolts. In my opinion and only in my opinion they are good for one time use and should be replaced regardless what the Tech at S & S says. Sure you can use them again if you don't get on the throttle as hard as some do, like me :D. Having increased the compression on my motor and using the same bolts was out to the question to me. Under load the heads lift ever so slightly and there goes your head gasket.

The other reason I replaced my studs is because Feuling studs are made by ARP and you don't have to sit there and apply the last 90 degree torque at the end. With the instruction sheet you get torque values in three stage lbs increments and you are done. The best part is that you can use them over and over with out issues or worries whether or not they will take the torque or not. My opinion only :D I have used APR studs for years on all my race engines and I can tell you there is nothing better.

I am at work now, but if anyone is interested in parts number, I can provide over the weekend :2thumbs:

Carlos :D
 

wyatt580

Well-Known Member
Hay carlos iwould be interested in the arp part #..gonna try to get with john sachs on some valve/head work..
 

117 cu in

Member
So...with all this being said in post above...I talked with Dave at JD's cycle and he told me he would if I wanted to but not required. Now not sure what to do. The heads will produce 11.1 - 1 compression. I will be on the throttle some...that's why we put go fast stuff in them to start with !! So does this all boil down to what makes you or me feel good as to which direction to go with this ? :confused:

:cheers:
 
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