IDLE ADJUSTMENT HELP

Energy One

Sven

Well-Known Member
OH MY GOD PLEASE GO AWAY!!!! 9secondflat has already been helped by competent proffesionals, not a gibberish drooling mental patient!!! :(
If you figured out how easy it is to read a plug now, [seeing that plug chart]... Then, figure this shit out; it's too simple.

Even with all your screw turns, I'm going to trailer you with every move you don't sea the tide change.

Idle = uses the main.
Main = uses the low.
No idle/top end nose dives = The low is gone.
No main/low end will not start, to more, the bike sort of, 'catch starts' when your ratio builds enough to make the fuel fire, THEN CATCHES then STOPS = Clogged jets to narrow hole openings, i.e., jet holes or low speed screw hole opening.

Introduce the accelerator pump = The Whoopie Cushion:

:rolleyes: :roll: Once (.) find my highest peak/most efficient pull out of a hole is the man(.) pull, I now reach for the whoopie cushion accel screw. I know for every move on that rod's plunge, I am going to fart out a little fuel, I am in a constant low to mid/mid to WOT kind of whoopie rod. I am in a constant farting mode. I fart every time you move that throttle cable's bowel movement is the accel moves the fuel alone.

We are now in test ride the WOT/load me mode. I want a brisk accel away. DO I:

1. Nose dive ~ Then accel away? I am too lean at the accel plunge.
2. Stumble away ~ Then, I am too rich.
3. I am one or the other or 3rd move is the charm ~ I crisp away = No dive, no stumble, nothing but hard low end wheel chirping grunt is the fart noise at the back wheel is to accel away is the accel crisp or WOT?!

:2thumbs: = Trailer tuning says, you are still up for grabs = Come get your trophy tune. Get that theory or keep looking at your porcelain tip is the tip. :D
 

fecalpeanut

Member
Has anyone found a screw, or mod to the original idle screw where you can reach down and adjust the idle at a stop light? Sometimes I idle lower when humid or cold out and higher when hot out. It would be cool to tweek it on the fly if needed.
 

DocMikeDC

New Member
Thanks for all the help. I think I was turning the wrong screw after seing the pictures I'm sure I turned the accelerator pump screw and not the idle screw. So frist I'm going to follow Broadbands guide to get the carb back to basics.

Then if that doesn't correct the problen I will start looking a Sven angle. I kinda understand what he is talking about. I'm not sure how the compression works into it. My compression according to S&S is supposed to 11 to 1 or real close. I called S&S and asked their tech guys what they recomended to increase the performance of the 117ci. They told me to get 40 thousandths shaved off the bottom of the cyclinders and I sent them the heads to get them to do there thing to to them. I also had the carb rebuilt and jeted. I hadit rebuilt because I was trying to eliminate the chance of air leaks. I'm going to work on my bike tomorrow and i let everone know the results. Thanks to everyone.
My question is more than one person made it clear. The position of the idle screw is that the back of the bike and next to the throttle cable, what part of that compared to the other end of the bike and the other end of the carburetor where the accelerator screw is, does a person with any kind of attention span not get????
 
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