How to remove wheel hubs

Status
Not open for further replies.
R

Rick

Active Member
Had the tires dismounted from my wheels and the bearings pulled. I am now removing the hubs in order to polish and clear the rims and hubs.

We will start with the rear wheel. Remove the bolts holding the hub together. These are on tight and with red locktite. Had to use an impact to break them loose.

The rears on my '06 K-9 already had the index marks on the inside. Index marks allow you to put the hub back on exactly as it came off. Also see below the rust from the bearings. The bearings were trashed after 8000 miles. I didnt keep the bearings as I forgot them at the dealership, but the inside number 2 bearing was frozen, only the outside number 1's actually turned. See below rust issues on the axel, and the index marks above the bolt holes on both the left and right side.




Here are the index marks on the wheel & on the hub




And the finished stripped down rear wheel.


Now on the front wheel there were no index marks at all. I would suggest marking the hub & wheel with a marks-a-lot on both hubs before removing the hub bolts.



I then stamped my own marks on the inside of the hub & wheel for future use.



One portion of the hub on the front came off easy (cone shape side). The other side was a pain in the A#@. Had to spray lube on it to loosen it up then twist it back an forth till it broke free. That's why the black marker index marks are important. Once you twist and pull the hub off you will have no idea exactly how it lines back up to go back together (trust me on this).

See below one side has some markings, but no markings to match on the wheel. I stamped a mark on both after removing.



Remove the wheel weights with adhesive remover, pull the stems and rims are ready to polish, chrome, zoop, etc.

 
Loafington

Loafington

Active Member
Hey guys, I am in the process of a tire replacement on mine and I ran into what I would consider pre-mature bearing failure on my rear axle bearings. I did some digging with my local area Big Dog service people, one in CT and one in NH and the bearings they are selling for replacement are around $6. Cheap huh, well it's might be due to the fact that they come from China. Second, the bearings that came off my rear rim say that they are 6205's. Well, 6205's have a 25mm I.D., my axle shaft is 25.4mm or 1 inch. The rest of the dimentions are correct, so WTF with the I.D. issue? So, obviously there is a dilemma. I am working on getting quality bearings from Timken tomorrow. I will have the numbers for the ones I used, although more expensive, to me it is worth it. Those stock bearings should not have been shitty at just over 5k miles.
 
G

Gas Man

Cool isn't cheap
Calendar Participant
Let us know about the bearings... maybe I'll order a set as well. Don't need them now but maybe later.
 
Loafington

Loafington

Active Member
Will do. Of all things, why cheap out on those? I don't get it. In the world of cutting corners, that would not be the one that I would choose to do in an attempt at lowering manufacturing costs.
 
Raywood

Raywood

The Pirate
Staff member
Calendar Participant
Troop Supporter
That's a bit of money for three of them just for the rear wheel. I know you posted how cheap the stock ones are but if you change them every 10,000 miles or so then you are doing ok or at least I have on mine.
I've done a fair amount of miles on mine with no problems. I had one dried up one on my first change but it was the outside/drive side bearing and the inside driveside bearing was fine as was the other side. The two fronts were fine when I changed them at 20,000 miles. Getting ready to change the front ones again after another 30,000.


I don't know about spending $124 for 5 bearings though!

I guess if you feel the stock ones are inadequate you could pull the seal off and insert some special grease!
Just my 2 cents,
Ray
 
Loafington

Loafington

Active Member
I know what you are saying, the price does suck a little. Maybe I am lazy and I don't plan on taking my wheels off and on just to grease the bearings. I like the piece of mind knowing that what is under my ass isn't imported Chinese crapola.
 
W

Whistler

Active Member
What's the deal with the rust on the shaft and bearing housing? Are there no seals and is rust a common occurance after several years? Thanks.
 
Raywood

Raywood

The Pirate
Staff member
Calendar Participant
Troop Supporter
Whistler said:
What's the deal with the rust on the shaft and bearing housing? Are there no seals and is rust a common occurance after several years? Thanks.
Click to expand...
Mine looked about the same when I took mine apart the first time at 19,000 to change the rear tire. The pic show the tube spacers that are inside the hub that the outside bearings rest against when you insert the axle. I put a coat of grease on them when I put it all back together but they are not sealed persay like the bearings are. And they aren't moving parts.
But that's what they look like when you ride in lots of rain!! :eek:
 
Loafington

Loafington

Active Member
Whistler said:
What's the deal with the rust on the shaft and bearing housing? Are there no seals and is rust a common occurance after several years? Thanks.
Click to expand...
Mine was rusty as well, not as bad as the ones in the pics but rusty nonetheless. I sprayed it with lube before I reinstalled it.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top