How to remove transmission

[mptexas]

Only way to learn is to do it, I usually put it back together the way I took it apart. Thank you for the help

 

[Brew]

To remove the clutch rod you need to put a wrench on the lock nut, I believe it's an 11/16" and use the allen wrench to hold the rod in place to keep it from turning as you loosen the lock nut.

 

[francoblay1]

This Forum is the best Manual!!! it works for me every time!

Good luck, good learning :2thumbs:

 

[HMAN]

Your on the right track. If you can wrench a car, you can wrench a bike. Parts is parts. Fixing your own is the best way to learn YOUR bike. Just keep asking questions and the members here will teach you as much as your willing.

 

[pknowles]

You're in the right hand with this crew. They have brought me all the way from a dumbass to my current status as resident smartass. All kidding aside, you got great resources hear. I just had my transmission rebuilt by Andrew and added a Baker belt drive. You need to remove everything that's in the way to make it an easier job. Once you get the gear box out, it's a prefect time to clean the back of the motor and every thing in that area. Also keep an eye out for the small shims under the gear box. One you remove the bolts from the bottom, lift the corner up to see were they are located. They need to go back in the exact order that they were in. If you are pass this stage, you may see a pattern in the paint. Good luck and keep it fun. :up:

 

[mptexas]

Brew, I did finally figure out the Clutch Rod nut, the allen wrench was the key ... however I cannot seem to get the Clutch Rod to come out. Do I just pull hard or am I missing something? The nut is loose.

PK, to be clear when you say "gear box" you mean the transmission box?

 

[francoblay1]

First take the nut off, then (with the Allen key) unscrew the push-rod and it will come out.

 

[Sven]

... all steel plates have rounded edges on one side and sharp of the other. in all cases, install the plates with the sharp edge toward the Transmission.

He says tomato, I say two may toe. Guys drag race and install the plates facing into the engine or the flat facing you. Either way, the stack is that all the flats run together.

Old Harley steel plates have a riveted ball cage that touches the clutch outer and this has less friction as would a tab around that end of the plate and would have more. Also, they stamp "OUT" on the cut side, so the assembly is cut facing you.

And also, when you remove Japanese friction plates, all the cuts face the pressure plate. The old Honda CBX had the pressure plate facing in. When those were disassembled from the factory, the cuts were facing the pressure plate.

With your hands, pray you assemble it correctly. While there, press your fingers together. If you lay you one hand over the top of your other hand, press your fingers now. See how the plates move together as in memory not warring with a reversed plate as if praying [they face] the right direction?

Now, technically, technically you are going to get your ass handed to you for not installing the basics staring at you in the face is Harley saying this is how you face the flats and the Japs explaining the same move.

You say toe may toe, and I'm going to throw tomatoes at the stage you better understand both factories moves is step on your toes, stay out of my pit you do not assemble that part as per. No offense, just a technicality vs. the engineers of both camps.

Study the part, study the factories moves vs. the net move you read on line.

Details my man. You don't find thishit in a book, but observe years of assembly/disassembly of parts is parts.

"It only goes together one way" is my mode of transpour some theory at it.

1. Plate [flat] facing you = Say I push on a wall with my fingers spread right at the edges. Do I have full contact? Yes.

2. Plate facing the round side = Say my fingers now are curled around the wall. Do I have full pressure? No.

Make sense we follow the pressure plate?

Signed,

NOLTT (no one listens to turtle)

Pee. Yes.

That's just the plate assembly. Now, we get to the push rod adjustment, we'za gonna squeeze'a another theory at you, you are going to lose at the line [traffic light] is your only crime. :up:

 

[mptexas]

Thank you all. Franco, cool, I did not realize the clutch rod itself unscrewed

Sven, when I get to putting it back together I will circle back on your post, thank you. The good news is I stacked the plates exactly as the came out, hopefully they stay stacked the same way

 

[Sven]

... hopefully they stay stacked the same way

You do not look at it like that. Think like you were handed a basket case and now you know how to assemble the clutch, which plate goes where and which direction. Do not trust the pack as it was assembled, especially a clutch pack.

You are already there. Take a picture of the pack and fan them out on each other. This way, you can see if all the flats are in their correct position.

Since you are here, stack all the steels on each other. Hold them in your palm and look to see if they all sit [flat] on each other, or there is air gaps between them. Then, shuffle them like a stack of cards so the top and bottom ones are somewhere in the pack so you can clear those for flatness.

See that primary chain and how it wears on itself? You change a tooth to a link, you begin a new wear pattern. Be smart = Mark: so they land on the same-same as if you assembled as it was removed...

... Either that or I'll hear you coming

 

[francoblay1]

Thank you all. Franco, cool, I did not realize the clutch rod itself unscrewed

Sven, when I get to putting it back together I will circle back on your post, thank you. The good news is I stacked the plates exactly as the came out, hopefully they stay stacked the same way

You will need to read this thread too: http://www.bigdogbiker.com/forums/how/2025-how-adjust-your-clutch-05-newer.html :2thumbs:

Check all the "How To" in the Forum.... click on the link at the bottom of my signature block :up:

 

[mptexas]

Thanks Sven and Franco.

My Clutch nut is not budging. Does the Clutch Rod have to come out before the Clutch nut can come off? I am turning the Clutch Nut clockwise.

 

[Brew]

It would be best to heat that nut up and use an impact wrench on it. Put some gloves on and hold the inner pulley to keep it from turning while tapping the impact, it'll come loose and clockwise is correct...

 

[mptexas]

Got it off Rob, just had to be patient and let the impact do its job, thanks.

 

[Little-Boo]

Thank you all. Franco, cool, I did not realize the clutch rod itself unscrewed

Sven, when I get to putting it back together I will circle back on your post, thank you. The good news is I stacked the plates exactly as the came out, hopefully they stay stacked the same way

Sorry, I guess I should have underlined that sentence on my post so that you wouldn't miss on how to remove the rod. :lol::lol:

Carlos :roll:

 

[francoblay1]

Why are you doing this if you don't even know how to put it back together, oh well to each it own. :loony: Hope you learn fast cause you are about to get some good teaching on this forum.

To remove the push rod you need to remove the nut attached to the rod on the adjusting side where you took the cover off. Use an allen wrench to hold the rod in place and remove the nut. Then using the same allen wrench unscrew the rod and pull it out.

The down tubes are the tube located in front or the front frame tubes. The one on the right side had an accordion looking rubber boot, pull that boot down and release the tension on the cable.

The Clutch plates are easy to re-install start with a steel plate, all steel plates have rounded edges on one side and sharp of the other. in all cases, install the plates with the sharp edge toward the Transmission. Alternate one steel and one fiber Plate until you have them all in.

The four bolts you removed were those holding the pressure plate.

Good Luck

Carlos :loony:

Sorry, I guess I should have underlined that sentence on my post so that you wouldn't miss on how to remove the rod. :lol::lol:

Carlos :roll:

:2thumbs:

 

[mptexas]

Thank you guys for dealing with my inability to read

 

[mptexas]

Hi all, I am finally back to working on the bike. I pulled the clutch gears and I can see transmission fluid running into the primary and dripping on the ground. Is this normal or is this the reason I had fluid going into my primary? I assume the latter.

One more question, is it easier to pull the transmission by taking the primary all the off, or by taking off the pipes and coming from the opposite side?

http://imgur.com/2P1naR5

 

[francoblay1]

Get hold of Andrew (Bigdogtech01) hes the transmission guru for our bikes :2thumbs:

 

[wolfen]

While you have the transmission out of the bike. It would be a good idea to send it to Andrew Barnes for rebuild and any upgrades it may need. It was the best thing I have ever done.