Ding ding ding......Sounds like a P.O.S. Send it back LDO.
The thing that I don't get is the statement above that I highlighted: "Anything above 9 volts gets 100% battery life and less than 4% gets 0 battery life.Ray -
The Battery Bug measures the DEPTH that the voltage drops instantaneously as the starter motor initially begins to turn over the engine. The deeper the drop - the harder the battery has to work to turn over the engine - the closer to replacement the battery is. The great thing about the measurement is that it is a 'relative' test. It is relating the battery to the particular engine that it is trying to start. Anything above 9V gets 100% battery life. I believe that 4V is 0% battery life.
I'll pass you findings along to our engineers but I can answer a few of the questions.
- A BIG engine and a small battery will give low battery life readings
similarly
- A small engine and a BIG battery will show 100% life for a long time
- A cold battery will give lower life readings
The 13.1V battery (at rest) and 0% life confuses me.
A typical battery will be 100% CHARGED at 12.6V. (this is not 100% life - just 100% charged) The 13.1V battery seems like it is either on a charger/alternator OR is over charged OR has just been taken off the charger and the "at rest" voltage is actually much less.
Any thoughts on how you are measuring 13.1V?
Argus Analyzers
401-965-4569
Do you want me to send you mine?Ray,
I think what the rep is saying is that as long as the voltage does not drop below 9 volts (during startup) it will indicate 100% battery life. I may be wrong but the 12.8V required for startup is an "at rest" reading if I remember correctly.
Whenever we push the start button, current from the battery sky-rockets and the voltage accross the battery goes down. So they are just watching how low this voltage drops to calculate how much relative battery life we have left.
Sounds like the monitor is latching onto the lowest battery voltage it sees and then holds it for indicating relative battery life. Just my best guess.
Wish I had brought my uninstalled battery monitor up here to Alaska with me. We have all the bench test equipment needed to figure out how this thing actually works.
And that's another thing I already asked. The guys email seems to think we shouldn't be getting readings of 13.6 or 13.1 volts.Do you want me to send you mine?
Once it is disconnected it will reset anyway. My battery is new and it only rates it at 25%. Ray, mine shows 13.6 volts.
Neil
Thanks for the offer but it takes a week or more to receive anything up here inside the Artic Circle and by then I'll be near the end of my work shift.Do you want me to send you mine?
Once it is disconnected it will reset anyway. My battery is new and it only rates it at 25%. Ray, mine shows 13.6 volts.
Neil
Ray -
Check out the literature that I attached and the graphic on page two in the CrankCheck technology section. The battery Bug that you have is using the CrankCheck technology. The graphic shows the voltage DURING the start. It begins at ~12.5V and then crashes as the starter motor is engaged. How deep this voltage crashes is very indicative of the health of the battery. If the voltage crashes only to the 9V range or above, the Battery Bug will show 100%. If it crashes to the 4V range or below, the Battery Bug will show 0%. In between - will show somewhere between 0% and 100%.
These sound like very high compression – long stroke engines that require lots of torque. The reason this group is having problems (noted by the engine maker themselves apparently, because they designed a compression release system to assist in turning the engine over to start) is that they are at the edge of starting viability with the size battery and starter motor they are using.
Some ideas:
increase wire gauge (and decrease length if possible) from battery to starter motor.
try a high rate AGM battery of same or larger physical size.
battery tenders on all the time – keeps the battery warm so ‘cold starts’ are only cold engines, not cold batteries too.
The PERCENTAGE that is shown is the WORST start achieved since the Battery Bug was installed. This info is reset if the Battery Bug is disconnected.
The bottom line is that your battery/engine combination is not in balance and the Battery Bug is highlighing this issue. From what you've told me I'm not surprised that NEW batteries show 40% right away. The ideas above may help alleviate the strain on the battery but without a bigger battery (which might not fit) the Battery Bug will continue to highlight this issue.
Let me know if you have more comments or questions.
Argus Analyzers
401-965-4569
Yep. I just emailed them back and asked if they could build one that would more realistacally reflect the starting procedures of our big motors.so it is going to beep the entire time?![]()
Sounds good Larry, when you get home we can hook up and check out my battery to ensure it's going to last me for my next couple trips.Ray,
Ray, if you would like to use my meter I'll arrange for you to get it.
I have a Fluke 87 meter with min/max feature and will check the starting voltage tomorrow.Ray,
The graph explains a lot, thanks for the posting.
Does anybody have volt meter with a peak hold feature? Would be interesting to see what the battery voltage drops down to when starting, especially when hot.
Using a digital volt meter with a peak hold feature you can connect it to the battery in reverse thus showing something like -12.8 volts. When starting, the voltage will go more positive (toward 0) and be captured by the peak hold. I've got one of these meters at home but it doesn't do me any good where I'm at now.
Ray, if you would like to use my meter I'll arrange for you to get it.