"HELP"REAR JUG BASE GASKET SPLIT...

cavcom278

THE COMMOMAN
Ok so heres what i found today. Was doing a look :eek: over because i saw "JUST 1 DROP" of "OIL" on the carport floor "my dog has never leaked a drop of oil before i saw it today "it was under the front of the primary case so i started looking. As i really started traceing the line it disappeared up behind the inner primary so i started looking at the motor."I guess the wind flow raps around the rear cyclinder and pulls the oil forward I GUESS?" I started in the front and worked my way around the the rear and low and behold the rear base gasket is buldging and is cracked and pushing a little oil out the crack. Well i guess i will be pulling the rear jug to replace the gasket and doing a " FULL CLEANING AND POLISHING OF ALL MOTOR PARTS" but heres the real question..... Do i need to go ahead and pull down the front jug down at the same time just for good measure and replace all the gaskets so that i know everything is good to go? I'm thinking yes and doing so will be a good experance for me to learn more about my dog. Just wanting some info from everyone here and what there experances have been in doing this to there engines. Just looking for some suggestions from those that have done this before. Also thinking of doing the cam upgrade and roller rockers at the same time just for good measure. Hoping everyone will please chime in and give me there past experances on this subject so i can complete this mission RIGHT and many thanks from the "COMMOMAN"....
"YOU CAN TALK ABOUT US / BUT YOU CAN'T TALK WITHOUT US" Anywhere Anytime The Commoman gets through"
 

woodbutcher

Mr. Old Fart member #145
Staff member
no experience with it, but it sounds like you already know what the answer should be. if you already have it torn apart this much, why not go ahead and do the rest of the work instead of having to do it all again?

makes sense to me. IMHO
 

Brew

Troop Supporter
no experience with it, but it sounds like you already know what the answer should be. if you already have it torn apart this much, why not go ahead and do the rest of the work instead of having to do it all again?

makes sense to me. IMHO
Same thoughts here...:D :2thumbs:
 

HMAN

I just like my Freedom
Supporting Member
Had the same issue. Leaky rear base gasket. If your gonna do one......gasket kits arent that much and while you have the motor out and accessible you might as well do em all. Just my two cents.
 

Bobby Schulz

Active Member
Go all the way and do both. Might be a real good time for some head work ;)
Little more compression and maybe some large valves too :)
 

Little-Boo

Well-Known Member
Troop Supporter
Get the comatic gasket set for the heads and base gasket. If you are doing a cam up grade might as well put some good gaskets on there. If you want to increase the compression use the 0.010 base gasket and the 0.030 head gasket. A good cam can always be complimented with a little more compression :D Deck the heads 0.030 and now your close to about 10.5 to one :D and can still use pump gas.

Carlos :2thumbs:
 

aspen874

Well-Known Member
If you have to pull the rear cyclinder, you might as well do both, that's what happened to me. I opted to increase the compression by cutting the cyclinders and re-doing the heads with stronger springs and new valves
 

john sachs

Well-Known Member
Carefully look at the leaking base gasket to determine what caused it to leak. This would also include feeling breakaway torque when loosening the head bolts.(possible a stud is pulling out) :bang:. I would change both base gaskets.
On a different note. Rule of thumb with me is : Whenever head bolts are loosened, or heads removed, base gaskets are AUTOMATICALLY changed. :2thumbs:
John
 

RRRUFF

Well-Known Member
Good advice above. I have done mine twice for different reasons but as Little-Boo said go with good head gaskets. I use the all metal, multi layered ones and I think they are Cometic or maybe S&S, not sure. I also agree with John Sachs on the head bolt issue. If you find one loose at the base inspect the threads carefully. If you decide to have the heads decked I also recommend John Sachs. And yes go ahead and do both, don't go cheap here.
 

Brew

Troop Supporter
A buddy of mine suggested you might take this route before taking the jugs off:

I've previously had my rear base gasket push out, exposing itself. This is usually caused by excess "Crankcase Pressure", at one time or another!
Other than that little issue, the bike was running GREAT and I really didn't see any sense, nor need in pulling the engine down, unless absolutely necessary.

fyi: The base gaskets only prevent oil leaking from the crankcase, it's NOT under cylinder pressure!!!

In my case, I could easily see that there had been NO lateral movement of the jug, itself.
So the fix of the oil leak was an easy remedy!


With the engine "cold", I cut off and pulled out, any of the exposed jug gasket with a razor blade. Then I thoroughly cleaned the area with "Carb. Cleaner" (Brake Clean will work, too!) and let dry. Then I applied, "squeezing" into the area of removed loose jug gasket, "Permatex ULTRA BLACK"! Once the ULTRA BLACK has dried & set-up, use a razor blade to remove any excess "Cleanly", looking just like it did previously!


This remedy is NOT just a "quick fix", nor a "TEMPORARY REPAIR"!
This method is good until further issues mandate a engine pull down.

Mine, personally, has gone over 7000 miles without ANY issues whatsoever, and is still GOOD to go as it was with the jug gasket!


I hope this helps!
 

Five Five

Well-Known Member
all good comments and recommendations ... do all gaskets and check for stripped rear cylinder stud(s) like john said... get a good torque wrench and I recommend not to over torque the cylinder bolts ... I can loan you my piston ring compressor if you dont have one.
 
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