wildbill7638
New Member
I’ve been using one of them for years
Harbor Freight Lift $299.99
- Thread starter Rottweiler
- Start date
Here's mine and I went overboard.....I added 4' Angle Iron extended it 12" and the condor wheel chock. I also had to shave it down 1/2" as well even with their chopper one. Problem is if the bike moves just a hair that's when the fender hits.
I've also bolted the free Harbor freight magnets to the sides so I can clean up the table and put the wrenches and sockets on them when working!
Great table and I swear I've seen a $279 coupon recently but maybe that was a July 4th sale or something.
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I've also bolted the free Harbor freight magnets to the sides so I can clean up the table and put the wrenches and sockets on them when working!
Great table and I swear I've seen a $279 coupon recently but maybe that was a July 4th sale or something.
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Last edited:
roadie1389
Well-Known Member
There is always a 20% coupon.
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roadie1389
Well-Known Member
Blac94cobra
Member
My brother has one and it works great. would definitely recommend it
The 20% off coupon excludes these parking lot sales which is what this weekends sale is. So anything in that email is exempt. Still this is a few bucks cheaper than the $299 Coupon, and this is the price I saw for their last parking lot sale.
It's a great lift at this price point.
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Reddickracing
Well-Known Member
mama said mama said mama said HF is da debil
Tim M.
Member
The trick to HFT lifts and Jack's is swapping the ram fluid out. The factory stuff is garbage. Same with the compressors, good product, garbage fluid. Swapped out my motorcycle fork lift's jack fluid for Sta-Lube Hydraulic and Jack Lift fluid by CRC, and have had zero issues even after months under load, buddy ran same bottle jack on his cherry picker, popped the seals and fluid bled out because the seals went, barely used the thing. Looks like same/similar jack/ram for the lift. Just drain the factory fluid and refill with a quality one, might not make it perfect or 100% bullet proof but certainly worth the $5-10 for the peace of mind and longevity. Same with the little $148 29 gallon compressor. Run it until it's nice and warm, drain every possible drop of the Chinese goat piss they use for lube out of it, throw in some Magnum synthetic compressor oil and it'll run like a champ and smooth. The regulator switch is super easy to adjust on it as well. Just my 2 cents.
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PacoPetty
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the tip! I just got the air compressor but I have not hooked it up yet.
41bigdawg
Let the Big Dawg eat !
I have had that compressor for about 8 years now, put good oil in it when I got it and I've never had one problem with it.
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PacoPetty
Well-Known Member
I got it for Christmas and I still have not set it up! Lol
PacoPetty
Well-Known Member
Yes, I’ve never had one so I’m waiting for Santa to show up and set it up for me !Wow brother...what are you waiting for? Christmas lol
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Tim M.
Member
The little compressors are pretty reliable when maintained properly. You'll still have to do a couple "heat and drain" runs to help it break in properly (there are directions floating around on the cycle times / hours and oil changes for break-in) but once it's in a happy place, like I said before, fresh, quality synthetic compressor lube will carry it well. I sold my little guy (HFT) and kept my DeVilbiss 60 Gal, use the same lube (Magnum) and it runs like a champ. I ran it hard using an air hammer to bust up tile a couple weeks ago, even under hard duty cycles the cylinders held consistent temps (check via laser gun) in a hot FL garage. So, my opinion only, well worth the couple bucks. If the little guy keeps cycling too much, once the warranty is expired, it is easy to reset the regulator min and max pressure cycles. Its under a small cover on the side, two (?) Screws, with nothing but a bead of cheap hot glue keeping them set. Tank is rated to hold a bit higher loads consistently. I reset mine to hold pressure longer and minimize duty cycles, increased the high end pressure settings and lowered the bottom settings. Have fun! I'm trying to get my hands on a lift ASAP. Devil is in the details!
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The lift I have was made over 40 years ago. It was leaking out the pump assembly. I took it apart and could easily find large and small orings for it. However, the main seal that was leaking was a one-off. I called a seal maker and they said 300 bucks to run the casting and whatever it took to duplicate it; that was the base price he quoted.
I scratched my nuts for an idea; since my head is empty why go there. Anyway, I looked at the failed part and came up with an idea. I believe this might have the same cylinder pump design you might have there too? There are rubber head covers for some modern bike engines. They might be padding emission noises so this muffs the sound I'm guessing? This is the thickness you might want to use. I took a piece and traced out a 4-leaf clover design and cut it out for a gasket. I forget how many I cut out this way, but I then staggered them as they began to stack up in their holding place. The X and Y were in place, meaning, wide enough and tall enough in the matching up. I reassembled the pump unit, installed it, filled it up with ATF. I began pumping and it started leaking. Oh shit, I topped it off high as if it still had the same leak. That was the breather overflow and it was leveling it off. Those days are over when I had to pack a stack of flat paper towels sitting under that pump. Since it leveled off, maybe going on 3 years now heading for 4 and still a dry drip pan.
Theory goes something like this: Lay your palm over the top of the other hand. The fingers are going in one direction. That's the layers. Pump your foot like you're raising the lift and then move your fingers as you pump. The clover leaf lets the oil flow over the bends. The gaskets return erect and each stagger is closing off the oil flow on the return... pull your fingers back up. She boom she boom, yada me ya she boom.
I scratched my nuts for an idea; since my head is empty why go there. Anyway, I looked at the failed part and came up with an idea. I believe this might have the same cylinder pump design you might have there too? There are rubber head covers for some modern bike engines. They might be padding emission noises so this muffs the sound I'm guessing? This is the thickness you might want to use. I took a piece and traced out a 4-leaf clover design and cut it out for a gasket. I forget how many I cut out this way, but I then staggered them as they began to stack up in their holding place. The X and Y were in place, meaning, wide enough and tall enough in the matching up. I reassembled the pump unit, installed it, filled it up with ATF. I began pumping and it started leaking. Oh shit, I topped it off high as if it still had the same leak. That was the breather overflow and it was leveling it off. Those days are over when I had to pack a stack of flat paper towels sitting under that pump. Since it leveled off, maybe going on 3 years now heading for 4 and still a dry drip pan.
Theory goes something like this: Lay your palm over the top of the other hand. The fingers are going in one direction. That's the layers. Pump your foot like you're raising the lift and then move your fingers as you pump. The clover leaf lets the oil flow over the bends. The gaskets return erect and each stagger is closing off the oil flow on the return... pull your fingers back up. She boom she boom, yada me ya she boom.