Front Wheel Bearing Extraction and Press using Pit Posse Tool

Energy One

Th3InfamousI

Administrator
Staff member
I said I would write a review and how-to on this Bearing Extractor Tool I picked up for about $90 on Amazon. Comes with all the stuff for normal motorcycle wheel bearings. Tool comes with zero directions but wasn't hard to figure out.

The tool was kind of a pain to use, extraction was pretty easy (except for one thing see pics) actually however when you go to put them in you need to make sure you are putting it in straight, not really something you need to worry about with a proper press. It's kind of a pain in the ass honestly.

Since I did it, it's an option and figured I would post and let you all decide. But if you have the space just buy a press for $150-200 at Harbor Freight and you can just press them in and out.

http://www.amazon.com/Pit-Posse-Dav...r=1-1-fkmr2&keywords=Harley+bearing+extractor


The Rim was off so I'm not going to go through that process just the bearings.

Step 1:

Remove Brake rotor and then remove Hubs from the wheel. As you need to get the internal axle spacer out so you can get the extraction collet to bite on the bearing. Mine were on pretty good, I had to use a breaker bar to loosen them.



Step 2:
I chose the Brake side hub to do first as that one was going to be the easiest. I put the tool together, tighted the collet and the bearing slipped right out! Well that was easy!





Step 3:
SHIT! I can't just stick the extraction tool on the exterior of this hub since it's polished. Covered it in painters tape and looked around for options. I am looking at new floors for the kitchen and happened to have a 10mm Pergo sample with the underlayment. Figured this could work! Cut out a 2" hole and presto!

This extraction was a little difficult, the collet was not really long enough with the wood on top I had to put the wrench in there and remove the washer and the flooring sample did end up cracking a bit but the bearing came out!



Wedging the wrench in before tightening the collet




Step 4:
New bearings I took the seals off and added more grease.

Where's the GREASE?



Step 5:
I realized the bolt that came with the tool was going to be too long with the hubs apart off to ACE.
I bought another smaller 1/2" bolt and some washers - 8 inches



Came back put everything together and used the bearing cup that came with it.





STep 6:
Applied Anti-Seize to inside of hub and bearing started cranking it went smoothly. Grabbed a 1-1/4 socket and realized I need a smaller bolt to get through the socket. Back to ACE for a 3/8" x 8" bolt. :bang:





Step 7:
Put together with the socket and crank down until it is fully seated. It goes pretty easy don't be too shy here.




Step 8:
Same process on other hub:


Step 9:
Put Hubs back on rim.

Calls for Loctite RED 40 lbs then 50 lbs

Step 10:
Be thankful this doesnt' need to be done often. a PRESS would be wayyyy EASIER
 
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Th3InfamousI

Administrator
Staff member
Step 4... you pulled the seal on the sealed bearing? And added more grease. Might want to check with your bearing supplier about that. Someone on here said that you wasn't supposed to do this. Awsome write up; thanks for sharing
I added some pics on that step.

I don't know who said you were not? I saw Raywood had posted it in one of his how-to's a while ago and when I took my rear wheel off the k9 the bearing looked like hell, all rusted with 9k miles. While the front were much better than the rears I figured adding some more grease should help keep water out.

Also lets be honest, its a 'seal' on top of the bearing its not a true "sealed" bearing.

While I understand mixing grease isn't always the best its all about picking your poison.

Add grease, or bearing looks like this?
 
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BWG56

Guru
The front wheel has dust covers for the bearings but the rear doesn't, wonder why?
I have decided with the minimal cost of the bearings that I will change them with each tire change if I feel they are anything but smooth. I got 15k out of the original rears and front bearings, however I don't ride in the rain and only ever wash the bike after I come back from Daytona.
 

Th3InfamousI

Administrator
Staff member
After all that. Really I should have just knocked them out I just didn't have something that fit in the housing.

I just replace mine with the tires. They are cheap. I don't try to ride in the rain but have got caught in a few downpours on trips

Sent from my 831C using Tapatalk
 
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BWG56

Guru
You could use a piece of rebar or even a socket extension, even the handle to a bottle jack, it don't take much. You can beat on the inner hub when your removing them cause their junk anyway:oldthumbsup:
 

Raywood

The Pirate
Staff member
Calendar Participant
Troop Supporter
Yeah, I don't like the little grease they come with so I always repack them. No problems with them in over 100,00 miles. I do change them at tire changes and repack the new ones again
 

Th3InfamousI

Administrator
Staff member
Morning eric, didn't mean to start a shit storm, but it doesn't seem right to pull the seal and add grease.in going to do some checking around today with the bearing dealer we use at work.
Cool ! No shit storm more info the better. Would be good to hear what they say. When the manufacturer makes them I assume they use just enough grease and not any extra for cost purposes. Hell packing it full is probably 4-5x more grease than it came with and being a manufacturer that's big $$$.

Honestly my front bearings looked pretty good not like that picture I posted which was the rear wheel on the same bike. Like Ker mentioned the front wheel has seals the rear doesn't so that could play a factor.

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