PROFLYER
SWOLE
Guys, working on this 06 Mastiff I picked up this week. The fork/steering stops are non-existent. The damn bars turned hard when it was up on the underframe lift and hit the tank on the left side and took a dime sized piece of paint off 
I pulled up the service manual and I'm thinking maybe the roll pins are broken off? I read through this thread: http://bigdogbiker.com/threads/fork-stops.15467/#post-223901 but it doesn't say what size the pins are. Anyone have a clue? Not sure if it's that, but they are what seem to 'stop' the triple each direction in the channels that are built into the bottom triple and the plate that sits on top of it. I'm going to rebuild the leaky forks once WSW gets me my rebuild kit and I'll address this then. Like to get parts ordered now if possible.
Thoughts? Thanks!
UPDATE FOR FUTURE REFERENCE:
Ok guys, got this fixed and turn stops again. I can't thank @Mr. Wright enough for his help!
I pulled the triple apart and discovered that I had two 6-32 cap screws sheared off of the bottom of the neck. The heads of the screws were still in the channel of the turn stop plate. That's the hard plate on top of the bottom triple that goes between the neck bearing and the triple.
Shannon suggested (Mr. Wright) that I get a hard LEFT HAND bit and try and work them out of there. I did so with quick success. That was the only quick success I realized for the rest of this project.
I wanted to go up in size, so I got some 8-32 set screws, drilled/tapped the two holes and put them in. They both quickly sheared off right at the bottom of the allen recess in the set screw--should have flipped them over and twisted them in with pliers (hindsight). So, I was back at drilling out set screws! Problem was I used RED loctite and they were a PITA this time. Got both out, went to re-tap both holes and in the left hole (as you're looking at it) the tap broke clean off. Awesome. Carbide is the only thing that'll break down a tap, or a torch. I have no torch. So, I fetched a ball tip Dremel and went to work. Shannon said we can fix the hole later, just get it out of there. After hours of grinding it out, I had a hole that was a pretty good mess. I used some JB Weld and left it overnight.
Come back to the next night, I also went and fetched some #26 and #21 cobalt and Nitro drill bits, some tap oil, a fresh 10-32 tap, some 10-32 x 5/8" grade 8 set screws, a few 3/16 Nitro bits and some 3/16 x 5/8" hardened dowel pins. First plan was to use set screws, if that won't suffice or I can't tap then just drill it out and use dowel pins (which still fit in the channel of the neck plate). I drilled into the neck where the JB Weld was and didn't feel good about the amount of metal I had there so we opted to flip the neck plate around (so the channel is in the front) and then mark/drill two new fresh 10-32 holes in the front of the neck.
That worked, but wow I can't tell you guys how HARD this neck is! It must be case hardened where the bearing races sit. I killed 3 cobalt #26 bits (wish I got a few smaller carbide bits for pilots) and then 5 (yes five) Nitro #21 bits. Finally after getting both holes deep enough I tapped them. Used a 10-32 tap, LOTS OF TAP MAGIC, and worked it in 2-half turns at a time, worked it back out, cleaned it, cleaned the hole, added more tap magic, went in again. I was NOT going to break another tap in the neck.
I then took the 10-32 set screws and screwed them in dry backwards (so the thin allen recess was way up in the neck). I dry fitted everything, then took it all back apart to RED loctite the allen screws AND the plate bolts. Guys, if you're ever in there check/red those plate bolts. Mine were really loose. Also they're a #25 TORX.
Got it all back together and bingo--I have turn stops again.
I pulled up the service manual and I'm thinking maybe the roll pins are broken off? I read through this thread: http://bigdogbiker.com/threads/fork-stops.15467/#post-223901 but it doesn't say what size the pins are. Anyone have a clue? Not sure if it's that, but they are what seem to 'stop' the triple each direction in the channels that are built into the bottom triple and the plate that sits on top of it. I'm going to rebuild the leaky forks once WSW gets me my rebuild kit and I'll address this then. Like to get parts ordered now if possible.
Thoughts? Thanks!
UPDATE FOR FUTURE REFERENCE:
Ok guys, got this fixed and turn stops again. I can't thank @Mr. Wright enough for his help!
I pulled the triple apart and discovered that I had two 6-32 cap screws sheared off of the bottom of the neck. The heads of the screws were still in the channel of the turn stop plate. That's the hard plate on top of the bottom triple that goes between the neck bearing and the triple.
Shannon suggested (Mr. Wright) that I get a hard LEFT HAND bit and try and work them out of there. I did so with quick success. That was the only quick success I realized for the rest of this project.
I wanted to go up in size, so I got some 8-32 set screws, drilled/tapped the two holes and put them in. They both quickly sheared off right at the bottom of the allen recess in the set screw--should have flipped them over and twisted them in with pliers (hindsight). So, I was back at drilling out set screws! Problem was I used RED loctite and they were a PITA this time. Got both out, went to re-tap both holes and in the left hole (as you're looking at it) the tap broke clean off. Awesome. Carbide is the only thing that'll break down a tap, or a torch. I have no torch. So, I fetched a ball tip Dremel and went to work. Shannon said we can fix the hole later, just get it out of there. After hours of grinding it out, I had a hole that was a pretty good mess. I used some JB Weld and left it overnight.
Come back to the next night, I also went and fetched some #26 and #21 cobalt and Nitro drill bits, some tap oil, a fresh 10-32 tap, some 10-32 x 5/8" grade 8 set screws, a few 3/16 Nitro bits and some 3/16 x 5/8" hardened dowel pins. First plan was to use set screws, if that won't suffice or I can't tap then just drill it out and use dowel pins (which still fit in the channel of the neck plate). I drilled into the neck where the JB Weld was and didn't feel good about the amount of metal I had there so we opted to flip the neck plate around (so the channel is in the front) and then mark/drill two new fresh 10-32 holes in the front of the neck.
That worked, but wow I can't tell you guys how HARD this neck is! It must be case hardened where the bearing races sit. I killed 3 cobalt #26 bits (wish I got a few smaller carbide bits for pilots) and then 5 (yes five) Nitro #21 bits. Finally after getting both holes deep enough I tapped them. Used a 10-32 tap, LOTS OF TAP MAGIC, and worked it in 2-half turns at a time, worked it back out, cleaned it, cleaned the hole, added more tap magic, went in again. I was NOT going to break another tap in the neck.
I then took the 10-32 set screws and screwed them in dry backwards (so the thin allen recess was way up in the neck). I dry fitted everything, then took it all back apart to RED loctite the allen screws AND the plate bolts. Guys, if you're ever in there check/red those plate bolts. Mine were really loose. Also they're a #25 TORX.
Got it all back together and bingo--I have turn stops again.
Last edited:
